94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

So I replaced my oil pan gasket when I got my new pan about a month ago and it's leaking in the rear a little bit. I can visible see it leaking from the top side of the gasket. So I was thinking of buying another seal since it has already been heated up and then wiping everything down and then placing some RTV on both sides of the gasket on the rear side where it meets the rear main cap. What do you all think, good idea or what? I guess I just didn't get it tight enough or the the damn bolts vibrated loose or something. I think I will put some loctite on the bolts this time. What do you all recommend for a torque spec for canton or moroso pan's? Any info would be great on this issue since I have the trans out I can easly pull the fly wheel off and drop the pan now rather than waiting to do it with the trans in. I'd like to do this tonight so.....

GIZMO

iTrader: (8)

The factory puts a small amount of sealer at the timing cover and rear sealhousing "corners". I use The Right Stuff.

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

The pan gasket that's on it now has roughly 25-40 miles on it, should I change it out or should I reuse it before applying some RTV, of course cleaning all surfaces of oil 1st??????
If I reuse it than I dont really have to drop the whole pan although I'm not sure if the gasket would still be good though since It has seen heat already?

jaycenk

iTrader: (1)

Yes BUT you have to have a very clean surface and any old RTV must be removed. Check the gasket as well to see if it has been crushed or pinched. also torque the bolts and nuts down in the proper order. If you don't it will leak again.

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

From the inside out, Got that! What torque spec do you all use, good and tight, lol! There currently is not RTV or sealant on there at all so maybe that was my problem from the get go!

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

If the surfaces are clean and dry and you torque them evenly it shouldn't leak. I have no RTV on my 242T and gasket with no leaks. Rob has the torque specs on his page: http://shbox.com/ci/fastener_matrix.html

meine96ws6

iTrader: (4)

Drain and check why it is leaking.. something isn't sitting flat all the way around.. Use your judgment when you look at the seal.. you might be able to re use it..

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

It's a couple drops coming from the back, I can see where it is coming from and I've tightened it up and still see a slight pool of oil coming from the top of the oil pan gasket where the seal meets the engine. Yeah Hopefully I can pull it down alot easier with the trans off. I'll just take the fly wheel off so I can pull the pan backwards some if need be. really dont want to change the seal because it was a bitch to get the bolts started because the thickness of the gasket. I think I'm going to loosen it all up on clean the surfaces and then try sealing it with just a little bit of RTV and let it dry over night and then refill it tomorrow and see. What happens from there. Would it be bad to start the motor with the trans not hooked up to the car?????????????

JAKEJR

I'd first check the pan for flatness in the gasket areas. Check for indications that the bolts had been over-tightened previously. If it has you'll find protrusions right where the bolts are inserted into the holes. Those will need to be flattened.

I follow the gasket manufacturer's recommendation as to how it should be installed. The one piece gaskets I've used recently all said install dry - meaning no RTV/silicone sealant. That's what I do and I've had no leaks.

I always use one-piece pan gaskets with built-in torque limiters and carefully fit the gasket to the block. This also involves cleaning the recesses the gasket indexes with. All old RTV, oil, etc., has to be removed from those recesses/channels. Razor blade time.

When installing the pan I make absolutely sure that (1) the gasket AND all the matings surfaces are clean and FREE of any trace of oil, etc. Clean and dry is one key to prevent leaks. (2) I make sure that the pan is correctly fitted onto the gasket with the ends properly seated into the gasket recesses.

I then use my hand to see if the pan has any rocking when I push it on different sides. If it does, I'll know that it's not sitting flat, so I need to investigate to find out why and fix it. A straight edge along the pan rails often will show where the problem is.

The technique I use to tighten/torque the bolts/nuts is to FIRST hand install all the bolts/nuts. I then run them all down until they're flush with the pan BUT I don't add any torque at this time.

Then I pull down all four corners to 10 fl lbs or slightly less. Starting at the rear, then front, then rear and finally front again. I always cross tighten. I never pull down one side then pull down the other side; same with front and rear. The trick is pull down the bolts in as even a fashion as possible.

Once all four corners are down to approximately 1/2 final torque, I begin cross-tightening the rail bolts. The difference is I don't work from the center towards the ends but the opposite way.

Why? My experience has been that any leak most always is at the rear (1st) or the front (2nd). So I tighten, let's say REAR driver's side to FRONT passenger side, then REAR passenger side then FRONT driver's side. Doing it that way I work my way to the center.

I work from the ends toward the center in two steps. I don't tighten the bolts to their final tightness in one step; all at one time.

After all the rail bolts have had their first tightening pass, I pull down the four corner bolts to their final torque; around 15/20 ft lbs. I then follow the same procedure I'd used earlier and pull down all the other bolts.

When all are done, I inspect my work and then go over all the fasteners again. If any are loose (or not as tight as I feel it/they should be) I tighten it again. I wait a while and then go over all the bolts a second time.

I never allow the engine to sit on the oil pan once I've gone through all that. The engine has to be supported in such a way so as not to put the weight of the engine on the oil pan/gasket.

Others may use a different method; this is just how I do mine.

Hope it helps.

Jake

94BlueZ28

iTrader: (34)

Well as dumb as it sounds I think I may have found my issue so I hope my leak will be gone when I fire it up. I ended up finding on the engine itself that the old gasket left behind 2 metal washer things, the spacer thing's in the actually gasket came out and stuck to the block, very back 2 corner ones. I guess this is what happens when your friend is taking care of the back while your doing the front half lol. More or less it was leaving a slight gap in the back so that's why I think it was leaking there in the rear. We'll see what happens. Would it be alright to fire the car up with out the transmission being hooked up or installed for that matter or will it even fire??????????? I would like to verify there are no leaks while the trans is out because it makes it so much easier to pull the pan!!!!!! Really wasn't for sure if the car would even fire let alone if it would be a bad idea.

JAKEJR

Yep, that'll do it. Just another one of those "Attention To Detail" things I harp on so often.

Glad to see you found it though.

Jake