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Back Ground
I have a 1964 Chevelle 2dr hard top. The car originally came with a 283 v8/Power glide. This was the first car I ever bought – I was 15 and had $550 to buy something. Over the years, the Chevelle saw many different engines – 2 – 283’s, a stock SBC 400 and then a rebuilt SBC 400 with Edelbrock Torquer Power package. While the 400 was a very good engine, it had many issues that all 400 have – overheating. In 2009, a buddy and I wet out to go on the 2009 Hot rod Power tour. It started in Madison, WI and ended in Bristol, TN. While we had the time of our life (if you haven’t gone on Power Toru, you have not lived!), after a week of fighting an overheating condition, I know it was time to set out for a new modern power train. While on the 2009 Power Tour, we met a bunch of guys that we refer to as the “LS Guys”. They were nice enough to take us under their wing and tell us about the wonderful world of LS motors. While I am not going to get into all the details of the LS motor in this article (there are so many articles out there), I will say that whoever at GM got the money to design and build that LS family of motors, you deserve to be inducted into “Sainthood”!!!! And for those of you who have been thinking about an conversion of your current motor to an LS – all have to say is “Mortgage the house, sell everything you own, ask Mom and Dad for a loan, spend the money and ask for forgiveness later” do whatever it takes to do the conversion. You will never look back on this decision! It will take your care from something you drive every once-in-awhile to something you want to drive every day!

So let’s get started. I am going to do my best to give credit to everyone along the way. Also, I would like to point out that I work for GM but not in engineering for high performance area. I have a Bachelor degree in Automotive Tech and turned wrenches for over 10 years at a GM and Good year dealer before starting to work at GM.

The intent of this write-up is to point out all the issues I found in doing the conversion. I fully understand that many people might not agree with my opinions and maybe I did not always make the best decisions but hey no one is perfect. While researching how to do this, I found a lot of misinformation or ‘gaps” in the information. This caused a lot of time spent researching.

So here is where I started:

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Engine
This is probably the biggest decision. What engine to go with? Where to get it. Many of the people get their engines from junk yards. If you can find one of these great. I could not. But here are a couple of thing to think about.
1. Can you use a truck engine? In my case no. It would not fit. I know that other people on the forum have made them fit in a 1964 Chevelle but it was not for me. Also, I did not want the truck manifold. That meant buying a car manifold. Also, would need to upgrade the throttle body (more cost). Other things to consider – DOD (Displacement on demand). This is great fo fuel economy, not so good for high performance and power adders.
2. Which size LS motor to get. While this is a personnel preference, I really wanted to look at what I wanted today and where I wanted to go in the future. I knew I wanted at least a 6.0L.
3. Throw-away parts. Many of the configurations that are out there from stock vehicles have a lot of throw away parts. While this may not be bad, I really had to take this into account when putting different packages together. Example: Truck engine throw-away – oil pan, intake, throttle body, DOD, front timing cover, exhaust manifolds, etc. While this may not seem a lot, it all adds to the price. A lot of these I will talk about more below.
4. Fly-by-wire = this is certainly one of the biggest decisions about which LS motor to get. Many people opt for the cable driven throttle body. While this is a good choice it does move you back to a LS1 so you cannot take advantage of the newest technology – specifically the latest Heads and 58x crank trigger. It also puts you on the older computers. I currently own a 2004 Buick Rainier with a 5.3 LS that has fly-by-wire. All I can say is I like the throttle response. It has also saved my may times (see Gas tank section below). So if you are interested in the latest tech, go for a LS3 if you can with 58x and Fly-by-wire. Also, you don’t have to worry about running a throttle cable – wire it up and go!
Which Engine did I pick?
I opted for an L98 LS motor. For a couple of reasons.
1. I think I got a very good deal on it.
2. It came with a Warranty.
3. It have very little throw-away parts
4. I could pick it up local (don’t forget about those shipping costs)
5. The place I got it from also could hook me up with the other parts I needed.
6. I wanted to use OE parts for this motor – sensors, computers, harness, throttle pedal,etc
The place I got it from was SMC performance (www.smcperformance.com). Shaun the owner is probably the most knowledgeable LS person I know. After a trip over to see him, he quickly pointed out the different steps of putting a system together. His company buys only OE parts. This is very important if you have a problem or break a part (especially if you are away from home. You can walk into any auto parts store or GM dealer to get a replacement part).

His company can supply you the crate engine (L98) (currently $4800 on ebay – http://stores.ebay.com/SMC-Performance-Inc ).

Here is the description from SMC
This auction is for an all aluminum GM 6.0L LSX GEN4 L98 crate engine still in the original crate. This engine has never been mounted or installed and is not a re-man. This engine is complete from intake to oil pan minus alternator and power steering pump. The water pump is included and is the C6 Corvette model. This engine is GMs hybrid 6.0L. Starts out with LS2 short block, but has the high flow rectangular port LS3 style heads and intake. It does not have the DOD (Displacement on Demand). The heads are the latest aluminum high flow L92/LS3/L98 castings as used on the new Corvette and HSV LS3 engines and feature 2.16" Inlet Valves and 1.59" Exhaust Valves (solid vales not hollow). The cast aluminum 6 bolt main engine block has a 4.00 inch bore and 3.62 stroke. The compression ratio is 10.4:1. The fuel system is engineered to support power levels well above 600HP with the same high flow 42lb injectors that the LS7 Corvette uses. This engine is setup with 58X ignition. Conversion box from 58X to 24X can be used for older vehicles, but not included. This engine is a stand-alone set-up is capable of 400hp as shipped. Water pump and dampener are the same offset as the C5/C6 Corvette. Oil Pan is a rear sump 8 quart used in the Pontiac G8 and Holden Commodore.

With a mild cam upgrade this engine can easily push 475hp. This engine is equipped with an automatic flex plate. No transmission is included in this auction. Please check our other auctions for a LS7 Clutch.

Warranty: 12 Month/12,000 Mile Limited Warranty. Parts covered against defect for a period of 12 months or 12,000 miles whichever comes first. Warranty void if engine is modified or altered. example but not limited to. Forced induction, NOX, Modified cylinder heads and programming changes. Warranty does not include removal and replacement labor from the vehicle..

Other parts for engine install
THERMOSTAT 160 DEG p/n SLE-100229 $26.95

So as you can see, this engine has a lot going for it. Very little throw-away parts.

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This is another area to really think about when looking at engines. You really want the accessories to in tight for packaging issues. I found that the Corvette Accessories fit the tightest. Just remember that all the items on the front of the engine matter. This is another reason I went with this engine. It came with the Corvette water pump so I did not have to replace it too. SMC Performance has the complete setup (minus A/C). This includes the P/S pump, alternator and brackets. All in the factory locations so everything lines up.

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My Chevelle had A/C from Vintage so I wanted to keep the A/C. The problem is that most LS’s have the A/C compressor on the passenger’s side bottom of the engine. Many guys have notched the frame or used engine mounts that bring the A/C compressor forward enough to get around the frame.

I used a set of brackets from Kwik Performance (http://www.kwikperf.com/). These things are the cat’s meow! They fit great. All I had to do was buy a new compressor which took the serpentine belt. With a little shimming, all the pulleys aligned up and we were good to go.

Dayco belt 5061010

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There are many different transmissions you can go with. My Chevelle has always had an automatic transmission. If you decide to go with a manual trans, your life just got easier because the calibration you can us is from a corvette (more on that later). Also, just remember to figure in the cost of a flywheel. This is one of these bad/good things to think about when deciding to go with drive-by-wire. If you go with drive-by-wire, you need to go with a fully electronic transmission. In fact, there are only a couple of ones to go with. A 4L60e or 4L65e may not work. Nor were they strong enough for what I wanted to do in the future. After talking with SMC, the 4L70e was the one for me. This allowed me to use the factory computer, calibration, etc. The 4L70e has a front input speed sensor that GM put in to better control shifts and timing. One other thing about having a fully electronic transmission is that you can change the shift points in the calibration without even getting dirty (more on calibration later) .

For my Chevelle, none of the other transmission would fit easily (4L80e, 6-speed auto). Also, I found a deal on the 4L70e from:
Rydell Powertrain
http://www.rydellpowertrain.com/

The good news about Rydell is that the transmission comes with a 3yr/100,000 mile warranty- including labour. I selected the one for the 2008 Chevrolet Trailblazer SS 2wdr – at $1295+200 shipping it was a good deal for me. And it came with a converter!
Chevrolet TRAILBLAZER 4x4 6.0L 07-07 364 $1,295 $200 4 spd. A.T., 4L70E, M70. 24233883,MJP

This turned out to be an even better deal when I have a problem on the 2010 Hot rod Power Tour. The transmission starting loosing fluid out the vent tube. They were great to deal with. They promptly sent me an exchange and picked the old one up for no cost. Very easy to work with and I would highly recommend them and the transmission.

Other parts for transmission install
Torque Converter BOLT SET p/n ARP-230-7304 $10.75

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While the transmission I was taking out was a 2004R, the new transmission would still not fit. Only in the front did it run. I had to dimple the tunnel about 3 inches wide all the way around. See pictures. This was actually not that bad. A little work with a small sledge is all it took. Just do a little more where the transmission cooler lines will go. Also, when putting the transmission in, put the cooler lines on first! Do it later is very hard. For cooler lines, I used AN fittings and braded line.

Pictures are looking up from under the car.

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This was an area that either you could buy new or reuse what you had. I decided to use what I had since I have access to a mig welder. I needed to cut off the existing mount, flip-it over and re-weld. You want the mounting surface that the transmission mount lays on to be as low as possible. This was mainly due to fitment issues in the tunnel. See pictures. Also, once the engine and trans are put in, you have to drill new mounting holes in the frame. Depending on where these holes are, you may have to shim one bolt so that the cross member lays flat.

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Now the fun begins and the bad information. There are many guys and companies that talk about what fits and what does not. The oil pan that came on the engine did not even come close to fitting. So I had Shaun at SMC get me a pan from a 2009 CTS-V (many people said this would work). All I can say is that it was not even close. See pictures. They I ordered an oil pan from an H3 Alpha. This is by far the thins pan from GM. It was close but still would not fit. I really wanted to go with a GM pan but opted for the Morso Pan (P/n Mor-20140 $219.95 – summit), Morso Oil Pickup (MOR-24050 – 99.95 - summit). The other bad/good thing about this pan is that you have to use a remote oil filter. I really thin that even if you used a stock pay, the oil filter would have been very close to the header. The remote oil filter is an unforeseen cost but it does make oil filter changes a lot easier.

Oil Filter Adapter
Bradded hose – p/n SUM-230010 $64.95
90 degree end – p/n SUM-220087B $33.90
Straight end – p/n SUM-220047B $9.50
Filter base – p/n TRD-1045 $32.95 (note I would probably not use this one. Filter is not a GM filter)

pictures 58, 59 and 60 are with the CTS-V pan
picture 66,67 are with the H3 Alpha pan

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Here are the pictures of the pan I went with. I did need to slightly dimple the pan around the tie rods but only a little

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More pictures of the pan

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All companies say that their motors mounts will work, the fact is that each are a little different. The basic function is to adapt the old system SBC mounts to the LS motor. The LS mounting location is forward so these plates adapt from old to knew. I first ordered the transadapt mounts. These moved the engine way too far forward.
Pictures

I ended up with the Hooker adapter plates. This seem to put the engine in a very stock location. I was really worried about the transmission. I was also planning on using the Hooker super comp headers (see below how that did not pan out.
Hooker Super Competition Engine Swap Mount Kits p/n HOK-12611HKR $79.95

Top ones are the hookers

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Here is another area where there are too many opinions and not enough fact. I first started by ordering the Hooker Super Comp headers. I was told by hooker that they would fit. Boy were they wrong. They hit on everything! Frame, engine, starter. Needless to say, they came out.
Hookers p/n HOK-2289-1HKR $669.95
Pictures
Next I ordered the Doug’s headers. Once again, I was told by Doug’s that they were “made” for my car. I have to admit, they were a closer fit but still hit on the frame. So out they came.
Doug’s p/n DOU-D3338 $619.95

Then I ran into the Edelbrock Rep over the winter at a show. I talked to him about the new LS swap headers that Edelbrock had. He said they actually had a 1964 Chevelle that they built the jig on for these headers. The reason I did not buy these first is that they were not available at the time I purchased the other ones. I was able to get them from Jegs.
Edelbrock Street Rod and Muscle Car Headers p/n 65063 $622.99

So do they fit…….YES THEY DO! They went right in. I also like the finish on the headers. I am not a big fan of chrome. I do have one complaint. They hang a little lower then I would like. I have scrapped one of them already. Otherwise they work great. And for the starter, SMC hooked me up with starter from a Trailblazer with and in-line 6 motor. Turns out GM uses a mini starter on the 6-cyl. This is a good way to save a little bit of money.

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Since I was switching from a carb to fuel injection, the tank was the biggest issue. Let me tell you, all tanks are not created equal. From what read on-line, there were three choices:

1. Buy a tank from Rick’s Hot rod Shop (p/n RHR-3051, $1196.99)
2. Get a used tank from a mid 90’s caprice – see other forum post for this
3. Buy a fuel injection tank from “Tanks-to-pan’s (http://www.tanks-to-pans.com/site/82...uct/FN-GM37BFI ) PN- FN-GM37BFI $431.25

I decided to go with #3. So the tank shows up and it looks just like the original. It bolts right in. I decided to use the Corvette filter. It has a built-in fuel pressure regulator and I can reuse the fuel line that is already going up front. Note: just make sure you mount it high enough to stay away from the rear-end and brake line. I forgot this tip the first time and had to change everything after the first drive. You will need a bunch or Dorman products to adapt the lines and make everything work together but after a ½ dozen trips to several Napa and O’Riley’s auto parts, I was good to go.
Pictures

For the fuel rail on top of the engine, Shaun told me to spin it 180 degrees and I would use the fuel line on the passenger side – he was right!

Other Misc Parts
3/8" QUICK CONNECTOR TO AN 08 – p/n AEI-15118 $36.95
ADAPTOR BLACK p/n AER-FBM5273 $19.95
PRESSURE GAUGE BLACK DIAL p/n ATM-2174 $30.95
8AN 90 DEGREE UNION BLK p/n SUM-220835B $5.95
-8 90 DEGREE BLACK HOSE END p/n SUM-220887B $14.95
-8 STRAIGHT BLACK HOSE END p/n SUM-220890B $6.95
S.S. BRAIDED HOSE-8 6FT p/n SUM-230806 $29.95

Now for the bad news. DON’T use this tank!! Once you get down to 2/3 full, you loose fuel pressure under hard acceleration. No problems when driving normal, just off the line. I opened up the tank and found that they do not put baffles in the tank. The slosh goes to the back and by, by fuel pressure. There will be a future upgrade to correct this. Not sure what yet but something.

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After several trips to the auto parts store I found an lower and upper hose.

The upper hose has to have a fitting put in for the hose that comes from the heads. There are many places to get this. Autometer makes one that is for putting in a temp sensor (there are several on e-bay also). Just get one for the right size hose. For the Upper hose, get two hoses with a 90 degree bend in them. Then put the fitting in the middle. Here is the p/n numbers I used (I think, please verify).
Hoses:
GATE 22286 Upper hose
Gates 25478 $13.99
Gates 22139 $18.99
Gates 25484 $18.99

One other thing that had to be replaced was the water neck. It needs to be a straight one for my application. These can be found all over eBay for around $40.

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Pictures

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No matter what, you have to have your driveshaft cut. I took the time to have an aluminum one made. I used CCI Driveline (www.ccidriveline.net). They are a great little shop here in Detroit. They can e-email you a worksheet with how to take the measurements and they will create whatever you need.

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This is the area that you truly get what you pay for. Some places use hand made harnesses. Some people get the factory harness out of a OEM vehicle. One of the reasons I got mine from SMC Performance is that they stand behind their products. The harness comes with all the OEM connectors with the factory sensors and factory pedal. Oh, and did I say the fully electronic pedal mounts to the firewall with only two sheet medal screws. No brackets. The firewall was almost made to take the pedal on my 1964 Chevelle.

As for putting the harness in, opened the box from SMC and all the wires were labeled. OI laid the harness on top of the engine, did the injectors first, then the starter and knock sensors, ran the harness around to the side and mounted the ECM and TCM (yes there are two but they talk to each other). Then put power and ground to the boxes. Lastly, ran the two wires down to the transmission. The whole thing took about an hour!. It was very easy. Even if I had a question, SMC was only a phone call away.

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Another reason that I went with SMC is that the computer comes programmed with their calibration. All included in the package. They use HP tuners to do all the tuning. You can always send the computer to them if you need something changed. I wanted my shift firmness changed for instance.

Tachometer
This is one area that is not that compatible with the GM computer. The Tach wire from the computer that I hooked to my Autometer tach, causes the tach needle to shake below 900 rpm. I guess this is an incompatibility with the GM computer and the Autometer gage. Sounds like a winter project.

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The rest of the build is just your normal wiring, power, grounds, etc. tieing up wiring, etc. It actually went very smoothly. I hope this helps anyone who wishes to do this conversion. Please let me know if there are any areas that you want more detail on.

I did drive the car on the 2010 Hot rod Power Tour from Newton, IA to Mobile, AL. In Mobile, it was 102 degrees and 100% Humidity. The car ran at 180 degrees with the A/C on! We got 22-24 miles per gallon (the old engine only got 11). Don’t be afraid to do this conversion, it was very easy!

“Drive it there and driving it home!!”

Jimbo1367

Looks good. I was looking at them (SMC) before I bought my engine. Any vids yet?