Inbred

iTrader: (5)

So, after 167 days, my ls1 swap turned on.

Here are the details:
2002 ls1
built 4l60e to 4l65e specs
4k Vig
351 1 3/4 LT's
custom x pipe
borla stinger catback
3" cutouts
8.8" rear with 4.10's
upper and lower Control Arms
steeda rear springs
koni adj shocks
eibach drag springs for front
4" intake
HSW wet plate kit


I'm not totally done as i still have to finish up some exhaust leaks and do my PS lines

On to the questions:

I wired up my stock gauges, so i wanna know how dependable the stock oil pressure gauge is. Is it ok for now, then later switch out to an aftermarket unit? Im just afraid since the pan had been swapped out by the previous owner, that the o ring might have not been properly seated and im losing pressure.......

I didnt think about it untill yesterday.

Next question, there is really loud ticking coming from the valve covers. Is this normal? I need to finish my exhaust to accurately pin point the noise, but it does seem to be coming from the covers. Unless my header gaskets are leaking too......

Lastly, can i use a ls1 dipstick on a 5.3 pan?

Thanks guys

Im hoping for low 12's on my et streets and maybe a mid 11 on the giggle juice.......

Maynor

The 96 Mustang oil pressure gauge is a dummy gauge. Its only usefulness is to tell you "Yes, you have more than 6 psi of oil pressure" or "You're motor is about seize". Nothing in between.

If you're worried about the o-ring being seated correctly, that gauge won't help.

As far as the loud ticking, no, that's not normal.

Can't help with the dipstick question.

John
Ex-Novi'd 99 Cobra
E36 LS2

rotor vs. piston

iTrader: (3)

Ditto on the gauge. It's "okay" for now, but would get a secondary aftermarket gauge ASAP just to verify what the pressure actually is.

Loud ticking is likely the exhaust at the manifold. My understanding is you can "burn" an exhaust valve by running w/ bad gaskets. Also could be a collapsed lifter, pretty common on hydraulic lifters that have set for a while. I've seen people pour a quart of automatic tranny fluid in their oil and run it until the noise went away. Then changed the fluid. Not recommending it, but I've seen it work.

W/O dropping the pan, it's just a guess. I would just order the dipstick tube/stick for your pan, mine was only ~$30 from the dealer.

Inbred

iTrader: (5)

Thanks. I'll order a oil gauge asap

I did some googling and I found that valvetrain noise is common for ls1 engines especially after longtube installations. The longtubes tend to echo the already present valvetrain noise.....

Any truth to this guys??

396D1SS

iTrader: (21)

yes, its called header ping

Inbred

iTrader: (5)

Thanks.

Is there a way to know if oil is being circulated? Will I tell by looking into the ps valve cover??

I'd hate to have to drop the pan to realize everything is fine....

rotor vs. piston

iTrader: (3)

Easiest way I can think of is to get a new filter. Start the car just a for a few seconds, pull the filter. If it's full, you at least have flow.

Is the oil sender hard to get to, I wish GM had of moved it to the front ( or ANYWHERE, besides the rear off the valley )w/ the LS engines. Autozone/Advance sells sunpro gauges for cheap and they're more than good enough to see what the engine is doing, gives a good piece of mind. Even the autometer gauges, I've seen them at pep boys now, are not a bad price for a piece of mind.

Inbred

iTrader: (5)

So I took your guys' advice and bought a temporary mechanical gauge from autozone. I hooked it up to the stock pressure switch location. I turned the car on and 0psi....

There was no signs of oil anywhere near the sender location.
So after an aggravating time removing the exhaust and dropping the tranny, I got to the pick up tube oring. It was properly set. (5.3 pan and stock k member don't play nice)

So now, why don't I have pressure? How long does it take for the system to prime? I only let it run about 5-8 sec with the gauge in fear of tuning something....

Inbred

iTrader: (5)

Just checked oil filter as one of you had advised......not one drop of oil.

Is the oil pump bad or do I take another look at the o ring?


Edit: took off o ring and it's perfect.
On a side note, motor has sat for about 8-10 months....
I have only ran it about 4-5 times for 5-15sec each time.....
So hopefully no damage yet.

rotor vs. piston

iTrader: (3)

Wow, that sucks. I had to swap pans and prayed, seriously I did, that I got the o-ring right.

I honestly don't know how to help from here, not sure how to prime an LS1.

When you pulled the pan, was the pickup tube wet w/ oil |||| are you sure it's fully submerged w/ the amount of oil that's in the pan?

I'd be extremely nervous about it, but baring anything else, before condemning the pump... fill your oil filter w/ oil, make sure the level in the pan is correct and give it another 5-10 seconds and see if you get pressure.

Maybe wait for better ideas than that, but that would likely be my next move before replacing the pump.

Do you know the history of the engine?

Inbred

iTrader: (5)

Dont know history of engine. A local guy had bought it from a salvage yard, and decided to buy a new truck instead. Engine was only in his posession for 2 days....

i had filled it with about 6 quarts of oil. so it should have been submerged.
i didnt fully drop the pan though, just enough to loosen the tube and inspect o ring.

in order to remove pan, id have to raise motor high enough cause of stock k member. but first, id have to remove at least passenger side long tube... too much trouble.


tomorrow im gonna try again by pouring oil into the filter and cranking it a several times to see if the oil circulates.....

from searching, seems that it needs to be primed since it sat so long.

Inbred

iTrader: (5)

I feel like quitting. Seriously. It took me 5 hrs putting everything back together.
I filled the filter with new oil and took the valve covers off
I poured 6qts through the top and decided to give it a try. with injectors and coils disconnected, I cranked it aBout 10-15 from 3-5sec each. Gauge still showed zero. Oil didn't even make iys way to the gauge sender....

Is it the pump or does it need more priming??

rotor vs. piston

iTrader: (3)

This guy finally just cranks and cranks and gets oil pressure finally

https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...-pressure.html

Everything I've found on priming an LS1 is just "crank w/o plugs or injectors, then fire".

Also check to make sure that "bare bell" is there.

Inbred

iTrader: (5)

Thanks for the link. I'm gonna try again tomorrow with the plugs out. At this point all it needs is a driveshaft and battery relocation kit.
I can't wait.

BlueZee28

iTrader: (7)

I would have suggested putting a new oil pump on it before installing it. It's cheap insurance.

Inbred

iTrader: (5)

Update:

borlas are teh sex

tried it with the plugs removed. Got pressure after several cranks.
Thanks for all the help guys

rotor vs. piston

iTrader: (3)

great news!