abs delete
08-22-2010, 09:45 PM
#1
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abs delete anyone know what fittings etc are needed to do this? im not about to spend $150 on a kit when i could get the same stuff for $30 pics would be nice also
thanks
thanks
08-23-2010, 10:26 AM
#3
i just yanked mine........your going to need a 2 in 3 out proportion valve......summits got one for like $40.....then just go to your local autoparts store and buy some line and fittings and start flaring and bending......i did mine for about $90.....70 for the wilwood valve.....10 for the lines and garbage.....and 10 for the 6 pack of coronas lol....
08-27-2010, 11:11 PM
#4
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If all the parts could be purchased for 30.00, that's quite a markup...I can assure you that this is not the case. …If someone knows how to, let me know so we can change our suppliers.
Base kits are 139.99 and include every fitting (OEM Style fittings used, not adapters), preformed lines, prop valve mounting kit, wilwood adjustable valve... everything you need minus the line lock, electrical kit and a double flare tool (assuming you have these parts already).
If you don't have them, the line lock and electrical kit is a 40.00 option of which you'll never be able to purchase separately for 40.00. The two switches and LED indicator alone included in the line lock kit will cost 15-20.00 if you purchased them separately at a store...the double flare tool is a 20.00 option...its a modified face-milled flaring tool which is not off the shelf purchased either.
If you want to bend something up custom, all the parts needed are included with NON-preformed lines. Some of the parts are custom milled so they are not shelved store parts. Pricing IS the same as you're still purchasing the same parts; the only difference is the lines are not formed. Personally, I don't think this is the best approach, but it is offered.
Could you save money by purchasing pieces here or there...not much if any considering fuel cost and time. …Especially if you're purchasing everything that is included in the kits. It wouldn't be a time saver by any means. If you're not reusing parts, not adapting pieces you'll spend over 100.00 by the time you pick up all the pieces you need...You'll need multiple tools at this point too...something you didn't need before. ...then you have to practice forming the lines and repurchase line for what didn’t work out to your approval.
Don't get me wrong guys, it’s nice to build things on your own, nothing beats self gratification. Sometimes though, from a financial and time standpoint, it is not worth it. If you want to save some money, the best bet would be to pick up one of our used kits from a board member.
Base kits are 139.99 and include every fitting (OEM Style fittings used, not adapters), preformed lines, prop valve mounting kit, wilwood adjustable valve... everything you need minus the line lock, electrical kit and a double flare tool (assuming you have these parts already).
If you don't have them, the line lock and electrical kit is a 40.00 option of which you'll never be able to purchase separately for 40.00. The two switches and LED indicator alone included in the line lock kit will cost 15-20.00 if you purchased them separately at a store...the double flare tool is a 20.00 option...its a modified face-milled flaring tool which is not off the shelf purchased either.
If you want to bend something up custom, all the parts needed are included with NON-preformed lines. Some of the parts are custom milled so they are not shelved store parts. Pricing IS the same as you're still purchasing the same parts; the only difference is the lines are not formed. Personally, I don't think this is the best approach, but it is offered.
Could you save money by purchasing pieces here or there...not much if any considering fuel cost and time. …Especially if you're purchasing everything that is included in the kits. It wouldn't be a time saver by any means. If you're not reusing parts, not adapting pieces you'll spend over 100.00 by the time you pick up all the pieces you need...You'll need multiple tools at this point too...something you didn't need before. ...then you have to practice forming the lines and repurchase line for what didn’t work out to your approval.
Don't get me wrong guys, it’s nice to build things on your own, nothing beats self gratification. Sometimes though, from a financial and time standpoint, it is not worth it. If you want to save some money, the best bet would be to pick up one of our used kits from a board member.
08-28-2010, 03:36 AM
#5
Hey:
If you want a ADJ go with above SJM kit , as it looks to have it all in one go
I picked up a 3rd gen 90-92 z28 prop valve, from the local bone yard for $5.00, works just fine, but I have upgraded Z06 brakes. Its a pretty solid alloy block, that not much can go bad with. Downside is no adjustment, but Mine doesn't need it, as the bias is pretty good as is. I don't know how LT1 brakes would be.
Dub
If you want a ADJ go with above SJM kit , as it looks to have it all in one go
I picked up a 3rd gen 90-92 z28 prop valve, from the local bone yard for $5.00, works just fine, but I have upgraded Z06 brakes. Its a pretty solid alloy block, that not much can go bad with. Downside is no adjustment, but Mine doesn't need it, as the bias is pretty good as is. I don't know how LT1 brakes would be.
Dub
Last edited by 1993 z28 f1; 08-28-2010 at 03:43 AM. Reason: reworded
08-28-2010, 03:56 AM
#6
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Hey:
If you want a ADJ go with above SJM kit , as it looks to have it all in one go
I picked up a 3rd gen 90-92 z28 prop valve, from the local bone yard for $5.00, works just fine, but I have upgraded Z06 brakes. Its a pretty solid alloy block, that not much can go bad with. Downside is no adjustment, but Mine doesn't need it, as the bias is pretty good as is. I don't know how LT1 brakes would be.
Dub
If you want a ADJ go with above SJM kit , as it looks to have it all in one go
I picked up a 3rd gen 90-92 z28 prop valve, from the local bone yard for $5.00, works just fine, but I have upgraded Z06 brakes. Its a pretty solid alloy block, that not much can go bad with. Downside is no adjustment, but Mine doesn't need it, as the bias is pretty good as is. I don't know how LT1 brakes would be.
Dub
if you use a stock proportioning valve, you could use any proportioning valve that had front disk brakes, and then a single inline adjustable proportioning valve on the rear brakes to adjust your bias..
08-29-2010, 12:17 AM
#7
what I have into my abs delete.
3rd gen distribution block-$20
various pieces of line and fittings from Auto zone -$15-20
umm thats it
if you go this route make sure you get a block with every fitting still in it because some are odd sizes you cant find at local parts stores.
my write up:
1.rip that pos **** out make sure you save the fittings out of the master cylinder you need to reuse them
2. one of the fittings into the master will need to be drilled bigger to fit a bigger line off the "new" distribution block. drill it to match the new line.(just stick the fitting in a vise or vise grip it and drill away). you may upgrade the other line aswell to a bigger size but is not required.
3.bolt the new block to one of the old abs mounting holes position it how you want it.
4. connect the dots with new line and flare all lines with appropriate fittings installed
this thread has some useful pics in it https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-modifications/1191081-abs-delete.html
3rd gen distribution block-$20
various pieces of line and fittings from Auto zone -$15-20
umm thats it
if you go this route make sure you get a block with every fitting still in it because some are odd sizes you cant find at local parts stores.
my write up:
1.rip that pos **** out make sure you save the fittings out of the master cylinder you need to reuse them
2. one of the fittings into the master will need to be drilled bigger to fit a bigger line off the "new" distribution block. drill it to match the new line.(just stick the fitting in a vise or vise grip it and drill away). you may upgrade the other line aswell to a bigger size but is not required.
3.bolt the new block to one of the old abs mounting holes position it how you want it.
4. connect the dots with new line and flare all lines with appropriate fittings installed
this thread has some useful pics in it https://ls1tech.com/forums/lt1-lt4-modifications/1191081-abs-delete.html
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08-29-2010, 01:02 PM
#9
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I have about 70 bucks in mine. It is a B&M Line Lock with out a proprotioning valve. I used all the stock brake lines, and all the fittings are single flared. If you like the setup I can get with MattSapp_95t/a and figure out the fittings again. BTW, your brakes will be 50/50. Here' a pic.
08-29-2010, 09:35 PM
#11
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I put mine together myself and was just going to do the proportioning valve only but in the middle of doing it, I decided to get a line lock as well. I ended up spending about the same as a SJM kit when it was done. If someone wants to run a prop. valve only or a line line lock only, you can do it cheaper than the SJM kit. But if you want both, do yourself a favor and get the kit. It will save you some time in flairing and bending. The stock lines where a real pain to flair on the car.
