quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

Well i got the car straightened out but im having cooling issues on these hot days.......yesterday it was 90 degrees out here and my temp crept up to about 235 on me.......not good. Of course I was asking for it.......the car is a built 385c.i. with 14:1 CR and big heads and a big SR cam with a big stall converter. Now heres the kicker the motor makes prob around 650hp....... and the car still has a stock radiator and stock fans in it......so theres the problem. What are you guys running for cooling systems (radiators/fans) on your high horsepower LT1's on the street??? I gotta get this solved cause other than this the car drives great!!

Help me out!!!

Thanks,
Mike V

69gto96z

iTrader: (13)

You can go with a griffin radiator. You have to hack up the core support to do it, but it will free up a lot of room, and cool better too.

LS1 SPEED

iTrader: (22)

I see no reason why your stock setup should not work. I have 0 issues and never get over 190 and I have let it run for almost 2 hrs idling in 90 degree heat. re; I was running NMCA True Street and had a starter issue and as I sat there waiting to make the 2 back up runs I kept hearing everyone say he is going to overheat..blah,blah,blah. The only thing that got hot was my trans which pegged at 250 on the 3rd run

I have my front bumper support out and front end cut out which helps air flow, but most the radiator is blocked by Chrs1313 RA.

orig 95K mile radiator
OEM new water pump
Electric pump
160stat

We run LT1 radiators and stock fans in TT Lsx build making 1500HP and still no issues.

maybe flush the system?

maybe you have an airflow issues? is the lower plastic air damn still on?

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

well the system is clean so thats not the issue........and yea i just put a brand new air dam on it but i recently put the chrs1313 RA on it and it seems like the cooling issue is worse now by alot.......at the track the car is fine it will run 180-190 but on the street after about 15 minutes on a 80 degree day the thing starts running away 225-235. The car's got 4.56's with a big converter so theres alot of rpm and heat being generated.......i climbed a big hill yesterday on the highway and the temp shot up 10 degrees and struggled to come back down. It seems like theres just not enough airflow or cooling ability. I know what ur saying about the TT motors but this i a very different application I've got nearly 14:1 compression all the time that is making heat and the motors always revving 3k+ thats why its getting hot.

LS1 SPEED

iTrader: (22)

it does sound like an airflow issue more then a cooling system issue

can you open up the front end so you get more airflow?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Is that 235-degree temp reading from the sensor in the head, PCM, or aftermarket gauge?

LS1 SPEED

iTrader: (22)

good question

idformula

This is an age old problem, too much horespower for the cooling abilities of your car.

Tireburnin

iTrader: (42)

I run an intake that blocks the radiator too. I don't have the bumper support or foglights either. Once the foglights are gone, the air is almost a straight shot to the radiator if you trim the inner bumper mount flap thing. If you are running a secondary trans cooler, try moving that off to the side of the radiator.

I8ASaleen

iTrader: (9)

Have you read the rest of the responses in this thread? Clearly it's an airflow across the radiator issue...

I would suggest getting some bigger fans (Spal with a homemade shroud) or (if you have a fan switch) leave the stock ones on all the time.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

If it were me, I'd just ditch the chrs1313.

cookba

iTrader: (10)

how are you guys opening up the front end? my fog lights died so im thinking about getting rid of them. but what else? pics would be nice.

And ive also read plenty about stock cooling systems keeping high HP cars cool. tuning helps too im sure HAHA.

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

I ditched my front bumper support and the fog lights. It's a straight shot directly to the radiator.

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

A lot of the cars I've seen on here have removed the plastic shrouding to direct the air through the radiator too which will definatly hurt it, + an electric waterpump with a 3000+ rpm cruising speed isn't exactly ideal. Then throw in the trans cooler and intake that blocks off the radiator you're just asking for trouble. I'm running a becool on my car and it still sees 200 degrees around town in 100 degree days.

speed_demon24

iTrader: (6)

+1 on this. FWIW ~235 on the factory gauge was really 250-260 on my car.

LS1 SPEED

iTrader: (22)

excuse the rough cut / test fitting and since has been cleaned up

here is my front end with the old over the radiator setup and now I have the Chrs1313 RA and Ls1 lid setup

The car never runs hot cruising or idling as I mentioned. The radiator gets a good amount of air with the bumper support gone and front nose cut open.

great421

iTrader: (1)

Forgive me for (maybe) being Capt. Obvious, but a PCM tune to turn ON the Low speed and Hi speed fans at their (respective) lowest temps in conjunction with the 160 degree thermostat helped me - but (as stated above), you probably already have that "tuned" in; however, I just switched (after flushing my cooling system twice) from Dexcool to 'standard' Prestone / Green radiator fluid antifreeze and my engine temps (which typically stayed between 175 and 185) dropped to between 165-170. A guy at a local radiator shop told me that was typical as Dexcool is a less efficient fluid for transferring heat vs. standard antifreeze. Just something to consider / try...

qc97z

iTrader: (9)

I've got the same front end setup Larry has (actually, he did the work on mine!) with the exception of a huge FMIC, and I'm not having any issues. Hasn't gotten hotter than about 190* sitting at idle. Making 648 RWHP on a procharger F1A, stock radiator, EWP, 160* thermostat, added water wetter to the coolant.

mcssmostwanted

iTrader: (4)

+1 ditch that stuff

my car has never come close to runnig warm, until the h2o pump went

quik95lt1

iTrader: (7)

ok well the fog lights are gone as wells as the bumper support......as for the ram air thats not going anywhere i need that for the track also i did remove that little plastic piece in fron of the radiator so that could be hurting me......also yes lol the fans are adjusted correctly....i just plain out think that im trying to cool 700hp with a dam stock fan and radiator just aint gonna happen on a warm day. I called griffin he said hes got a radiator good for 700hp for $600 and i've already got a big fan off of a lincoln markVII so i think im gonna make a shroud and do it when i come back from the ltxshootout next week. Should solve the issues. Thanks for the help everybody.........i was basically just asking what you guys put in for radiators in fans for more cooling power.