1C3 MAN

iTrader: (4)

As the title says.

rebuild motor (low oil pressure so i know i'm on borrowed time)
throw in some forged pistons and rods (not sure on brand yet)
Lloyd Elliot LE1 Heads and a medium sized cam.
ported intake
58mm throttle body
1.6 roller rockers,pushrods,lifters,timing set,guideplates.

125hp nitrous setup (nitrous outlet plate kit)
WOT switch
window switch
timing controller
fuel pressure cutoff
walbro 255 fuel pump

Does this setup sound solid and am i missing anything that needs to be put on my list.

this is my daily driver so i dont want a big cammed setup and nitrous seems like a good choice.

MattSapp95_T/A

iTrader: (35)

Do you have any hp or 1/4 goals in mind?

I don't know what you already have or don't but

Electric Water pump
Long Tubes w/ Y pipe and exhaust..
get 7/16 roller rockers with ARP 7/16 rocker stud
melling select oil pump (Not a HV one)


Sounds like a pretty solid build to me though....

However even the stage 2 is very street able from what I have seen. I have a good friend with an AI 200cc setup on a 355 and I wouldn't mind driving it anywhere...

Just don't want you to spend the money and wish you would have went bigger and faster after driving it for a week or two...

hitmanws6

iTrader: (20)

whats a medium sized cam?

1C3 MAN

iTrader: (4)

Right now i have
pacesetter longtubes with y pipe
TSP rumbler exhaust
performabuilt level 2 trans with 3800 stall converter.

I am looking for 360-375hp on motor
then a 125 shot

1/4 mile times. mid 11s i would be happy with

and im not sure about what exact size cam as of yet. i will most likely talk with lloyd and pick a cam that will work well with my setup.

any other thoughts?

MattSapp95_T/A

iTrader: (35)

Should be fairly easy to run 11's with the 125 shot... Bolt on cars are doing that...

If that all you are looking for then you should be ok with the route you're going....

z_speedfreak

iTrader: (3)

you probably know this but I'm going to mention it just cause I don't see it mentioned, be sure to upgrade the c/r's bolts while your in there

are you keeping the mechanical h2o pump or going electric? wondering what your considering for a timing set

1C3 MAN

iTrader: (4)

Okay guys thanks for the responses.

What pistons/rods should i go with?
i dont want to spend a ton on them but i want them to be good.

also i might sound like a dumbass but what are c/r bolts?

LSWHO

iTrader: (1)

Yeah, like 4 of them.

VendettaV6

iTrader: (8)

id say he means, crank and rod bolts

ThreeHonks

iTrader: (10)

connecting rod bolts

moderate Z28

On the internet maybe, but Im sure theres more altogether.

SpeedDensityZ

iTrader: (5)

I think if you're set on going with LE I would go ahead and do the LE2 heads and a cam that will fit within your driving needs. Mid 11's on the shot should be a breeze. When my car was bolt on only I pulled 108 mph on just motor. If the car would have been hooked up I could have run mid to high 11's on a 100 shot instead of the 12.1@114 I did run. That was with a shitty 1.96 60 foot too.

1C3 MAN

iTrader: (4)

So you guys think i should go with the LE2 heads over the LE1s?
are the LE2s that much better?

the reason i was going with the LE1s is because i am hoping to be doing this build for 5-6k and those heads were cheaper but would still get me my goal.

anyone got advise on which forged piston and rods to go with?

also i am planning on rebuilding the motor. is there any good kits out there or do i have to buy all the parts separate?
if separate then what all do i need?

thanks guys

1C3 MAN

iTrader: (4)

One more thing.

should i stay with a 350 or go bigger 355,383?

would going with a 355 be worth all the extra money in getting the block bored out for just 5 extra cubes?

RamAir95TA

iTrader: (2)

Boring the block over is more of a necessity to correct out-of-round cylinders, not so much as to increase displacement. 5 cubes won't do much in terms of HP.

SpeedDensityZ

iTrader: (5)

I would go ahead and go with the LE2's for the simple fact that you can never be fast enough. Once you run what you want to run you'll want more. I am giving the Probe SRS pistons a try along with the Pro Comp 4340 forged I-beam. I think I have a little under 800.00 in the piston, rod, and rings. I'm running a stock crank. I broke a valve spring last week and have yet to get the car back together and spray it. Should do fine. Different people prefer different brands. The prices were right so I am giving these a try. My engine balancer said it was pretty nice merchandise, I assembled the motor myself.

1C3 MAN

iTrader: (4)

alright man those piston are exactly what i was looking for.

but which ones do i need cause there are a bunch of options

dish top
dome top
flat top
reverse dome


thanks again

SpeedDensityZ

iTrader: (5)

These are the ones I have.

http://www.probeindustries.com/Chevy...ns_p/12334.htm

With a .026 Head gasket, 58cc heads, my block hasn't been decked and the pistons were .027 in the hole the CR is 11.0:1 roughly.

MattSapp95_T/A

iTrader: (35)

Bro if you can't run in the 11's with a full bolt on car and a 125 shot you need to quit drag racing and take up knitting or something....

There are countless bolt on nitrous cars running 11's no problem.....

we went 12.1 with a 1.9 sixty on a 100 shot in a bolt on six speed car with an Iron head LT1 all stock internals on 17" wheels.....We were a set of Mickey Thompson ET streets away from mid 11's all day....


Yea I would go with the LE2 setup it will be plenty streetable and you NEVER have enough power.....

Those pistons and rods that SpeedDensityZ posted are REALLY nice....I would run them in my motor without an issue and over the Eagle stuff... Great prices too...

slomarao

iTrader: (6)

Im using speedpro pistons, scat I beam rods, stock crank, ARP main studs, moly rings with them gapped for a 200 hit.

I dropped off the shortblock and let the machine shop take it apart. The stock crank was fucked so I got a new one, and the parts above, assembled, balanced,milled the heads .010, everything to the block----.$2450