Gauging Interest - My 455whp 95 T/A...
#1
Gauging Interest - My 455whp 95 T/A...
Hey guys -
I have come at a crossroads with my vehicle and am considering letting it go to move on to bigger and better things. While it is not certain that I will be letting her go, I'd like to get a good grip on what some of you would be willing to pay to decide whether or not it's the right decision. I've owned this car for 10 years and have been through thick and thin with it, so this decision will not be made lightly. Here's the run-down:
1995 Pontiac T/A, T-tops, 116k on the body, 2000 miles on new engine and transmission. Paint has some flaws with a dented front right fender (new bumper and fender will be provided, just needs to be painted). Has factory ram-air hood and airbox. Car exhibits EXCELLENT streetability. I wouldn't hesitate to drive it every day.
Engine (less than 2000 miles):
Gil Davis-built, factory 4-bolt block. 12.6:1 static compression (9.6:1 dynamic, runs TERRIFIC on pump gas). 383 with Ohio forged crank, Scat I-beam 6" forged rods, JE -5cc forged pistons, zero-decked. Canton 242T oil pan, Melling 10552 pump with Canton 20-023 pickup and stock oil pump drive. SFI-spec B&M flexplate. Advanced Induction 200cc ported stock castings with beehive springs, Crane Gold 1.6 NSA rockers, chromemoly TF pushrods, LS7 lifters, Cloyes double-roller timing chain. Custom billet grind 237/242 .604"/.598" 108 LS cam from AI. ATI superdamper, Fully ported (and powdercoated green) intake manifold by AI, 58mm throttle body, 42# Lucas/Delphi injectors. The rest of the fuel system consists of OEM regulator and lines with an in-tank Walbro 255 with Racetronix "hotwire" harness kit. Water pump is a CSR anodized red in a factory housing. Temps NEVER get above 190. FACTORY OPTISPARK with MSD 8.5mm wires, TR55 plugs.
Exhaust:
LPP (Gen I) stainless headers, QTP stainless electric cutout after the y-pipe (no cats) mated to a Hooker cat-back with quad tips.
Transmission/Drivetrain:
Performabuilt Level 2 4L60E with custom 4000 stall, Denny's Nitrous-Ready chromemoly driveshaft with 1350 yokes (unbreakable).
Ford 9" rear narrowed 2" on each side, 3.89 Strange gears (slight whine) with Wilwood rear brakes, full spool (33 spline).
Suspension:
Spohn Extreme Duty torque arm, BMR boxed LCAs with poly bushings, BMR adjustable PHR (on-car adjustable), stock rear springs with Comp Engineering 3-way drag shocks, Wolfe SOLID rear swaybar with endlinks/heim joints. Front suspension is ALL stock.
Chassis:
Wolfe 6-point welded-in roll bar, painted black, with Stroud 5-point harness. BMR boxed welded-in SFCs.
Wheels/Brakes:
15x8 Weld Prostars with MT ET streets 26x10.5x15", 15x3.5" fronts with 165 tires. Rear brakes are Wilwood, fronts are factory with Hawk HPS pads and Brembo blanks. SLP line-lock and SJM ABS-delete kit installed just a month ago.
Misc:
The following items have been deleted - front swaybar, rear seats, EGR, AIR, cruise, front swaybar, A/C (evaporator, compressor, condenser and lines, the heat still works). Wipers and washer reservoir deleted along with the front bumper support and foglamps. EVAP purge still intact and functional. B&M supercooler trans cooler. Probably some other stuff that I can't think of off the top of my head too...tuned by Bryan at PCMforless.com.
So yeah, there's alot of **** done, but it's not without it's issues. It's definitely more of a "goer" than a looker... Here are a few pictures (more available upon request):
So what do you guys think it's worth? I know I provided a ****-ton of mods but I want to make sure I get an accurate estimate. Hope I didn't miss anything...
Any takers?
I have come at a crossroads with my vehicle and am considering letting it go to move on to bigger and better things. While it is not certain that I will be letting her go, I'd like to get a good grip on what some of you would be willing to pay to decide whether or not it's the right decision. I've owned this car for 10 years and have been through thick and thin with it, so this decision will not be made lightly. Here's the run-down:
1995 Pontiac T/A, T-tops, 116k on the body, 2000 miles on new engine and transmission. Paint has some flaws with a dented front right fender (new bumper and fender will be provided, just needs to be painted). Has factory ram-air hood and airbox. Car exhibits EXCELLENT streetability. I wouldn't hesitate to drive it every day.
Engine (less than 2000 miles):
Gil Davis-built, factory 4-bolt block. 12.6:1 static compression (9.6:1 dynamic, runs TERRIFIC on pump gas). 383 with Ohio forged crank, Scat I-beam 6" forged rods, JE -5cc forged pistons, zero-decked. Canton 242T oil pan, Melling 10552 pump with Canton 20-023 pickup and stock oil pump drive. SFI-spec B&M flexplate. Advanced Induction 200cc ported stock castings with beehive springs, Crane Gold 1.6 NSA rockers, chromemoly TF pushrods, LS7 lifters, Cloyes double-roller timing chain. Custom billet grind 237/242 .604"/.598" 108 LS cam from AI. ATI superdamper, Fully ported (and powdercoated green) intake manifold by AI, 58mm throttle body, 42# Lucas/Delphi injectors. The rest of the fuel system consists of OEM regulator and lines with an in-tank Walbro 255 with Racetronix "hotwire" harness kit. Water pump is a CSR anodized red in a factory housing. Temps NEVER get above 190. FACTORY OPTISPARK with MSD 8.5mm wires, TR55 plugs.
Exhaust:
LPP (Gen I) stainless headers, QTP stainless electric cutout after the y-pipe (no cats) mated to a Hooker cat-back with quad tips.
Transmission/Drivetrain:
Performabuilt Level 2 4L60E with custom 4000 stall, Denny's Nitrous-Ready chromemoly driveshaft with 1350 yokes (unbreakable).
Ford 9" rear narrowed 2" on each side, 3.89 Strange gears (slight whine) with Wilwood rear brakes, full spool (33 spline).
Suspension:
Spohn Extreme Duty torque arm, BMR boxed LCAs with poly bushings, BMR adjustable PHR (on-car adjustable), stock rear springs with Comp Engineering 3-way drag shocks, Wolfe SOLID rear swaybar with endlinks/heim joints. Front suspension is ALL stock.
Chassis:
Wolfe 6-point welded-in roll bar, painted black, with Stroud 5-point harness. BMR boxed welded-in SFCs.
Wheels/Brakes:
15x8 Weld Prostars with MT ET streets 26x10.5x15", 15x3.5" fronts with 165 tires. Rear brakes are Wilwood, fronts are factory with Hawk HPS pads and Brembo blanks. SLP line-lock and SJM ABS-delete kit installed just a month ago.
Misc:
The following items have been deleted - front swaybar, rear seats, EGR, AIR, cruise, front swaybar, A/C (evaporator, compressor, condenser and lines, the heat still works). Wipers and washer reservoir deleted along with the front bumper support and foglamps. EVAP purge still intact and functional. B&M supercooler trans cooler. Probably some other stuff that I can't think of off the top of my head too...tuned by Bryan at PCMforless.com.
So yeah, there's alot of **** done, but it's not without it's issues. It's definitely more of a "goer" than a looker... Here are a few pictures (more available upon request):
So what do you guys think it's worth? I know I provided a ****-ton of mods but I want to make sure I get an accurate estimate. Hope I didn't miss anything...
Any takers?
#4
TECH Junkie
iTrader: (34)
Id agree with the above statements. $9k is about right. Its hard trying to sell these cars. Despite how much work and money you have into it. Id never be able to sell my car because id never get what id want for it. Or rather, what its worth to me.
What would you get if you did decide to sell it ?
What would you get if you did decide to sell it ?
#5
I am fully aware that I'll take a huge hit on my investment, so no one here is hurting my feelings. I think I might be able to make more parting the entire thing out to be honest, since the wear parts have less than 2k miles on them.
And to be honest, 9k is about what I expected.
And to be honest, 9k is about what I expected.
#7
TECH Fanatic
iTrader: (11)
man this is a tough one, car runs really nice and you've done a lot to it. In this market, who knows though. I think the easier sale would be the engine and trans if you can swing it. don't limit yourself to this market, someone with a C4 could do really well with your motor in their car as well. I'm always on the lookout for a c4 myself that I could drop my motor/trans in and not have to worry about the decaying camaro body.
I think the trade idea is a good one as well.
what's the next project?
I think the trade idea is a good one as well.
what's the next project?
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#8
man this is a tough one, car runs really nice and you've done a lot to it. In this market, who knows though. I think the easier sale would be the engine and trans if you can swing it. don't limit yourself to this market, someone with a C4 could do really well with your motor in their car as well. I'm always on the lookout for a c4 myself that I could drop my motor/trans in and not have to worry about the decaying camaro body.
I think the trade idea is a good one as well.
what's the next project?
I think the trade idea is a good one as well.
what's the next project?
#10
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I bet you will come out better parting it. I know of a guy that just parted a Procharged LS1 T/A, he did it in 2 weeks time without shipping any big parts and got more $ out of it than he was asking when he had it for sale.
#14
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Damn man, your ride definitely moves out.
I know how you feel though. I gave up my LT1 97 WS6 and am still in the pursuit of a LS2/LS3 C6 Vette when I graduate college here in another couple of years. My dad bought it off of me in hopes I would buy it back and eventually build it. Sadly I'm not sure if that will be the case, but only time will tell. I just might miss my first "muscle" car
If I were in the market I'd say $9k is respectable
I know how you feel though. I gave up my LT1 97 WS6 and am still in the pursuit of a LS2/LS3 C6 Vette when I graduate college here in another couple of years. My dad bought it off of me in hopes I would buy it back and eventually build it. Sadly I'm not sure if that will be the case, but only time will tell. I just might miss my first "muscle" car
If I were in the market I'd say $9k is respectable
#19
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Well the good news with the sagging market is that Corvettes can also be had for dirt cheap compared to the new cost. I've seen some C6's go for only $25k with decent mileage. I'd do 06+ because 05's have weak rear diff's