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difficulty to install converter?

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Old 09-13-2010, 05:23 PM
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Default difficulty to install converter?

alright guys i am wanting to stall my auto ss. not completely sure which one im going to get, but i was curious on how to install it, or who to ask to install it. how much is it usually to install a stall converter and tranny cooler?

i like doing everything myself so i have peace of mind that its done correctly and no one ***** with my car, but im not sure if i have the experience or knowledge to tackle this one myself with my buddies. anyone know anyone in the general kansas city area that would be able to help me out?

i have never removed a transmission before but ive got a feeling my rear main seal is leaking so i gotta replace that so why not swap stalls while im in there?
Old 09-13-2010, 05:29 PM
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...kies-here.html
Old 09-13-2010, 06:07 PM
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thank you sir
Old 09-13-2010, 11:30 PM
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takes patience... dont plan on doing it in one weekend on your first time... i mean you can do it in one weekend but your gonna be pissed at the end of it.

One little tip that i wish i had known when reinstalling mine that doesnt seem to get mentioned a lot (or atleast i never saw it until i searched a bit)... the coolant lines on the transmission... install the clips before you try and reinstall the cooling lines. the cooling lines just push in with the clips in place. I cant even begin to tell you how pissed i got trying to hold in the cooler line then slide that clip over with that limited space. I wanted to push my car off the jack stands and set it on fire... LOL

Other then that get yourself a 13mm(i think) swivel socket and that will make life much easier as well!
Old 09-14-2010, 12:15 AM
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IMO, pay particular attention to converter spacing and crankshaft hub fit. You don't want any binding there.
Old 09-14-2010, 06:03 AM
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A little trick you can do to save yourself some time is to cut the tranny lines about 6-7" from the tranny with a tubing cutter and plug the ends. It's a bitch trying to take out the tranny lines at the transmission while it's still up in the tunnel. When you reassemble take some rubber tranny line like what you'd get from a tranny cooler, and slip over the tubes that you cut and install some hose clamps. If you want to you can flare the ends with a harbor freight tool. You do not need to remove the transmission to swap converters but you do need to get it quite a bit away from the motor, like 8 inches or so. You can do it in your garage and leave the transmission hoisted on the jack. You need a swivel socket and a HUGE extension to get the bellhousing bolts. I use a 3 foot extension and a swivel socket with a piece of electrical tape wrapped around it to keep it from flopping around.
Old 09-14-2010, 10:19 PM
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Originally Posted by got-a-ls1
Other then that get yourself a 13mm(i think) swivel socket and that will make life much easier as well!
I dont see how you can get the trans out without one. The one bolt on the driver's side is completely blocked by the floorpan/tunnel. to me that is a requirement, unless anybody has any bright ideas to get that one out...
Old 09-14-2010, 10:30 PM
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Originally Posted by RedRallyeZ
I dont see how you can get the trans out without one. The one bolt on the driver's side is completely blocked by the floorpan/tunnel. to me that is a requirement, unless anybody has any bright ideas to get that one out...
yup you are correct... unfortunately when i did mine i never saw anyone to say use a swivel socket... either that or i was thinking just a regular swivel... It wasnt until i tried to get that 3rd one up i realized it wasnt happening.... That bolt up is impossible to get with anything else...even then i couldnt get that bolt out all the way with the swivel socket... had to use the tip of my finger to slowly thread it out.. guess what? That bolt is sitting in my tool box, it didnt go back! no way no how, screw that. theres a good tip for ya... lose that bolt! lol
Old 09-14-2010, 10:46 PM
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""One little tip that i wish i had known when reinstalling mine that doesnt seem to get mentioned a lot (or atleast i never saw it until i searched a bit)... the coolant lines on the transmission... install the clips before you try and reinstall the cooling lines. the cooling lines just push in with the clips in place"

good advice,
try this also
Johnny

>>>>> http://modernmusclecars.net/forums/a...p?do=tcinstall

https://ls1tech.com/forums/automatic...allations.html



may make a tool to hold flywheel
hope the drawing of tool is understandable
use a 1/8 x 2 flat bar about 12 in long insert into flywheel threw the round hole in botton of bellhouseing ,the notch in side will hold tool in place

PS:::
for some reason my drawing will not post right >>the base of the tool should be as wide as the top part with the teeth

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Old 09-15-2010, 07:07 AM
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Originally Posted by got-a-ls1
yup you are correct... unfortunately when i did mine i never saw anyone to say use a swivel socket... either that or i was thinking just a regular swivel... It wasnt until i tried to get that 3rd one up i realized it wasnt happening.... That bolt up is impossible to get with anything else...even then i couldnt get that bolt out all the way with the swivel socket... had to use the tip of my finger to slowly thread it out.. guess what? That bolt is sitting in my tool box, it didnt go back! no way no how, screw that. theres a good tip for ya... lose that bolt! lol

i have an impact swivel and a 3ft extension. those 2 tools makes the job so much easier.

the other truck about the lines is a good idea. ive learned how to place the E clips facing the right way for easy removal and then just pop the lines out, but putting them in is tough at times. i may have to do this the next time i have the trans out
Old 09-15-2010, 08:10 AM
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If I can offer any advise, it would be to take your measurements and watch for the spacing. Like stated above, take your time. It took me a couple afternoons, but its pretty much straight forward. For a piece of mind, I would use some blue loctite on the converter and trans bolts. The last thing you want are bolts backing themselves out due to vibration.
Old 09-15-2010, 08:14 AM
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Before you put the new converter on the input shaft of the trans fill it with 1 quart of tranny fluid. Also when you put it on push and turn and you should feel 3 distinct "clicks" of the converter sliding into the trans. If you do not feel these 3 clicks as you turn it then the converter is not seated all the way into the pump. If you try to mount it with it not seated all the way you can damage the pump in the tranny and then it has to come out again.

The things everyone has has said about the swivel and the "e" clips are so true, the clips are a pain. You might even want to get some new ones as sometimes when you remove them they can fly somewhere and you might never find them. Just take your time and if something is giving you fits take a break for a while and come back to it. Good Luck.
Old 09-16-2010, 09:51 AM
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Yesterday I had a shop install a Yank 3600 stall in my 98 trans am and I couldn't be happier. Completly different car and much more fun to drive. I paid 345 for the install. 4.6 labor hours at 75$ a hr. I think about 30$ for fluid and they also changed my trans oil filter. Total it was around 370 for everything. I installed the tranny cooler so im not sure how much that will cost you. But to save yourself some money you def. can tackle that. Hope that helps.




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