Nitrous Oxide - Getting ready to spray, need some advice.

The setup first.

This is a 383 13:1 carb motor with a 950 QFT annular 4150 carb, super victor int, AFR 205's worked a little, 248/258 112 solid roller cam, 1 7/8" kooks 3" x with bullets.

TH400 rmvb, brake and 5000 tci converter. 28x10.5S ET drags.

The stand alone system pull's from the main fuel cell and has a Holley HP 125 pump, -06 line to the reg and has a fpss after reg.

The kit is a Edlebrock performer RPM plate kit with a nos mini controller hooked up, and a Gage mounted on the cowl before it goes into the plate. I also have a 4500 nano setup in place of a heater.

I plan on running C16 fuel. That was recommended by several folks including a fuel company.


OK now for the questions.

I want to start with about a 100 shot to work the bugs out if there are any lol. About how much timing should I pull from 34-36 NA?

Should I put a #8 plug in it for a 100 shot? I use a br7ef now for NA.

Also, I do not have the correct jetting for this kit as I picked it up off of here used. It came with a few nos jets that are not what it calls for from edlebrock. Here is edlebrocks jetting list for this kit.

100 shot N57/F57
150 shot N68/F68
175 shot N78/F78
200 shot N85/F85
250 shot N99/F99

This is at a 6.5 psi recomended fuel psi and 950 bottle psi.

I have a .047, .053, .061, .071, .093, .102 and two other ones that are in the plate now but I don't know what they are off the top of my head.
These came with the plate but are not the ones for it oviously.

Should I start with the .047 for N and get a .047 for the F?


I am going to call Brad tomorrow and go over a few things with him. But it would be nice to get pointed in the right diction from guys who have been there done that..

This is not my first time using nitrous. I know the basics and just enough to be dangerous lol.

I would PM ATVracr, he's a nitrous huffin' SOB :lol:.

I would PM ATVracr, he's a nitrous huffin' SOB :lol:.

I know lol. He will chime in soon I hope.

I filled my nano bottle for the first time today. I rented a 6000 psi nitrogen bottle from my welding suplier and picked up the refill valve from Brad at nano. Brad talked me through it on the phone and it was super easy to fill. It took about 30 seconds to actually fill it. I should video it for the other people wondering how it acually works.

I will say that this 6000 psi bottle has a very thick wall to the bottle and it is about 200+ lbs. It is not easy to lug it around.

I have 4 10 lb bottles filled. Ready for some action..

I am wanting to start with a 57 nitrous jet. Brad recomended about a 63 or 64 for fuel to start with.

How does that sound? Good starting point?

I'm going to see someone I know here in town that has a lot of jets and he is going to let me use some for testing.

Does anyone not agree with using a br8ef plug for this size shot? I use a br7ef for NA.

I think that jetting will end up pretty rich. But it is not my products, they have more experience with them than I do. Make sure you make a short pass and check every plug.

I would go with a 9# heat range. Probably over kill on the 100 shot but your going to move up so why not go ahead and start running the colder plug.

Looks like you have a pretty good grasp on what is going on. I would follow Brads advice on the jetting. Odds are you may need to take some jet out of the fuel but follow his advice to find a safe starting point. For a 100 shot I would think the 8 would be a fine starting point. I would pull 4-6 degrees. Yank 6 and varify and then add two back if the plug says it needs it.
Dave

Thanks guys. I have three sets of 8's and I will pick up a few sets of 9's to be safe.
I am going to take a wide range of jets with me to the track.

I will record some jets and timing and pull a few plugs to cut open to view and I will post pics of them after this Friday. I am going to a track rental.


Another question. If my fpss does not seam to be working or has a problem, can I just hook the two wires together and bypass it?

What about the fpss question?Anyone know if this will work?

That jetting chart is going to be PIG rich... It also seems very aggressive on the nitrous side. I've always known a .078 to be a 200. Could possibly be due to a variance in the plate, but it seems fishy to me.

Hooking both wires to one of the poles (or hooking them together) on the fpss will disable it.

Thanks, I thought that would work to bypass it.

I am starting with a .057 N jet and a .062 F. That is what Brad suggested to start with and go from there. Edlebrocks jet chat show a 57N and 57 F for a 100 shot.

I took the jets out of the plate to see what was in there and it has a .055 N and .061 F. That sounds close to me.

I put a bottle and nano bottle in the car last night and put a set of br8ef plugs in it gapped to .028". I tried letting the car warm up and then I hit the throttle and bumped the wot switch to see if it would activate and it did not. I think there is a window switch on the nos mini controller. I will mess with it tonight. I will take it down the road and hit it foe a sec to see if it works. If not I will have to check all the wiring real good.

I took my time wiring it up and I am certain that everything is correct.

I found the problem tonight, it was the fpss. I put a jumper wire on it and it worked. I think it was set to high from the factory that made it. We turned it down so it works fine now. The noids come on when I hit the wot switch now.

I also fixed another leak I found in a fuel line. And I got a fews jets from jegs. a .057, .062, .063. I have a .055 and a .061. should I get a .058, .059 and a .060 just to be safe?

I think I am ready for testing.

I'm freaking stoked about tomorrow! I am going to a track rental and then staying for the Friday night festivities. RPM's "Bad to the bone" heads up index racing.
I have everything checked and it all seems to work fine. I put 5 gl of c16 in it tonight. Loaded the car and quad up. And a shit ton of tools and supplies lol.

I kinda got screwed on getting a set of br9efs plugs from vato zone. They waited till the last min to say they could not get them. I'm hoping my buddy comes through in the morning. But I have 3 full sets of br8efs plugs. I hope that will be fine.

Also, I did not make it to my other Friends house to get some diff jets. And it was his wifes birthday today. So he blew me off lol.

I had some bad luck testing yesterday. The system would not work right while the motor was running but would work fine if it was shut off. It seems the coils/ignition is interfering with the controller.

I tried moving the two grounds around and separating them further. I tried hooking the 12v sourer to the battery. I moved the controller and the relay's away from the coils. I even mounted the coils off of zip tie's( my coils are bolted to steel plates welded to the bottom of the cowl, metal to metal). The only thing I did not do is re rout the wires to the noids and wot switch. Which are kinda close to the coils.

I messed with it all day moving shit and trying everything. I got pissed and took the controller off of it and wired it up with just a arming switch, a wot switch and a fpss. It comes on with the motor running now lol. I just have nothing to control it with other than my foot and the arming switch. I think that it will be fine for a small shot, for now.

I will post a copy of my diagram to see if anyone can tell me if there is something wrong with it but I fallowed it to a T.


On the up side, I got all my license runs in and signed off by drivers. Now it is ready to mail off.
Can anyone tell me how long it takes to get them in the mail after sending the paper work in?

Here is how it was all wired up.


http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y45/rossjrss24/nirtiousdiagramwithtimingretard.jpg

I think the problem is the placement of the controller or the wiring. Some how the coils are interrupting the power or ground to the noids. Here is how things are mounted in the car.



http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y45/rossjrss24/DSC07231.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y45/rossjrss24/DSC07232.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y45/rossjrss24/DSC07233.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y45/rossjrss24/DSC07235.jpg

More pics of the rest of the system.


http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y45/rossjrss24/DSC07364.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y45/rossjrss24/DSC07363.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y45/rossjrss24/DSC07361.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y45/rossjrss24/DSC07359.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y45/rossjrss24/DSC07358.jpg
http://i2.photobucket.com/albums/y45/rossjrss24/DSC07357.jpg

You should be able to hook a 100 shot without a progressive, maybe eliminate that from the equation until you figure that out. tuff (Mike K) once has problems with a progressive and interference, maybe ask him on the bullet in his thread or something... I think he moved some grounds.

Nice lookin set up!

Throw the FPSS in the trash IMO.
The fuel pressure will sometimes dip when the nitrous comes on and turn the kit off, then the pressure comes back up and the kit comes back on, pressure drop kit off, pressure back up kit back on ... rinse repeat.

They are ok for stock cars with 100 shot I guess.

Thanks John. I started looking for info on there at first but I have not posted my problem over there yet.

I moved the grounds a few times and nothing worked.

Nice lookin set up!

Throw the FPSS in the trash IMO.
The fuel pressure will sometimes dip when the nitrous comes on and turn the kit off, then the pressure comes back up and the kit comes back on, pressure drop kit off, pressure back up kit back on ... rinse repeat.

They are ok for stock cars with 100 shot I guess.

Thanks, everyone on the bullet says the fpss are junk. It was keeping it from coming on at first until we turned it down. If it seems to give me any trouble I will just hook the two poles together.
My buddy convinced me to put it on there for safety.:eyes:

It was actually doing the on/off thing you are talking about. But I think we had the poles hooked together when it was doing that. I think it is the ignition doing it though. When we shut the motor down, it would open the noids like it should. Start the motor back up and it didn't work propperly. Most of the time it will not even come on.

I will get some current pics of the set up. Those pics are from the install back in the spring.

The controller is off the car and in a bag now lol. I don't feel good about spraying much more than about 150 shot with out it. Hell I think 150 shot may put this car up in the air pretty good at 2830 lbs race weight.

I will get some current pics of the set up. Those pics are from the install back in the spring.

The controller is off the car and in a bag now lol. I don't feel good about spraying much more than about 150 shot with out it. Hell I think 150 shot may put this car up in the air pretty good at 2830 lbs race weight.

I dont think you will need to use the controller with a 150 shot. I sprayed a 250 of the brake in my s10 at a race weight of 2950 with me in it. I had the bars set at 6" off the ground and it would barely touch them. It was more of touch and go. Most of the guys standing cars up have really big shots. Like 300 or more at the hit. I agree with the above statements about the fpss. Throw it away. If it disengages, then engages it unload then load the chassis, break the tires loose, suprise you and possibly put the car in the wall. Get rid of it.

I have the fpss bypassed right now. The wires are on the same pole.

I am starting with a .057 nitrous jet and working on the arf and timing first. Then I will step it up from there slowly. Once it starts to be crazy off the hit I will know were my limits are.

I don't think it will need a controller for the 150 shot but I was hoping to spray 250 by the time it's all over this year. And time is running out..

I took the car out to ORP last night and it was running like shit. It was back firing at 7k rpm's. This is na. The car had a ignition problem before but has been ok lately. It seems the problem is back. Just from moving some wires around when taking the n2o controller.

It runs hard out of the hole then right at 7k it back fires then keeps going and then will back fire again if I stay on it. The afr was 12.5:1 it high gear. I have taken it to 10.5:1 and it is still there. So it is not a fuel problem.

I am going to have the box moved and re wired to see if this will fix it. If not I will try a set of coils off of my camaro to see if that helps.

On a good note, ORP was hooking last night. I cut a 1.37 60' na.