running hot
#1
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running hot
Hey I've finished my build and the pcm is tuned but I am running hot. I am running about 230° with water wetter and 50/50 water/dex. I am running the stock water pump and stock radiator. Any body else running a simular build have these issues? I live in Florida so heat is not on my side here.
96- 383 stroker motor
4 bolt splayed
Lunati crank
Oliver I beam rods
je inverted Dome pistons
comp cam 290 hr-12
comp cam promag roller rockers 1.6
AFR 210 heads
2500 stall
BBK 58mm throttle body
lt4 intake port matched
pacesetter long tube headers
off road Y-pipe
flow masters
96- 383 stroker motor
4 bolt splayed
Lunati crank
Oliver I beam rods
je inverted Dome pistons
comp cam 290 hr-12
comp cam promag roller rockers 1.6
AFR 210 heads
2500 stall
BBK 58mm throttle body
lt4 intake port matched
pacesetter long tube headers
off road Y-pipe
flow masters
Last edited by BigD383lt1; 09-24-2010 at 08:55 PM.
#6
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Sorry I didn't have my description exact it is inverted dome.... thanks Wicked94Z for being so noble to point that out.
http://www.jepistons.com/Catalogs/Au...ty_23_inv.aspx
Yes I have bled the system went back and double checked it several times on both bleeder screws. Both fans are working and the tuner set them at 160° and 180°... So he said.
http://www.jepistons.com/Catalogs/Au...ty_23_inv.aspx
Yes I have bled the system went back and double checked it several times on both bleeder screws. Both fans are working and the tuner set them at 160° and 180°... So he said.
Last edited by BigD383lt1; 09-25-2010 at 09:44 AM.
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#8
That's MISTER MODERATOR
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Put in the 160 degree thermo stat. Have the fans tuned to BOTH come on at 160 degrees.
I'd move to Prestone green, either the pre mix or (less money) full strength and do a 50/50 mix yourself. Use distilled water only, like 80 cents a gallon at any supermarket.
Those water wetters and such just cool off your wallet.
Park with the car inclined with the nose up. While the engine is cold, top off the radiator and half fill the overflow tank. Start engine. When the thermostat opens, the level in the radiator will drop and it'll start moving through the radiator. Top it off again. Rev the engine up a bit and hold it there, the level will suck down a bit again. Top it off again and slap on the radiator cap. Drive car. Have a beer
#9
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You may have an air bubble in the system, run the heater on low when you are filling to open the valve to the heater core.
Another trick is to put the front of the car up on stands when you are filling to help the air rise to the top.
Pre-fill with engine off until you get fluid out of the bleeders, shut them, top it off and crank the car with the heater on low and re-crack the bleeders one at a time to see if any air is in there. Wait till thermostat is open, top it off .
This method worked for me.
I bought a tool that pulls a vacuum on the cooling system, works good.
Another trick is to put the front of the car up on stands when you are filling to help the air rise to the top.
Pre-fill with engine off until you get fluid out of the bleeders, shut them, top it off and crank the car with the heater on low and re-crack the bleeders one at a time to see if any air is in there. Wait till thermostat is open, top it off .
This method worked for me.
I bought a tool that pulls a vacuum on the cooling system, works good.
#13
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is this at idle, city driving, or highway driving? if it is highway driving, make sure your AIR DAM is in place! i broke mine once and at highway driving, it heated to the max!
#17
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No deflector is still there... I may need to check to see if all the bolts are in it though I may have taken them out for something and not put them back in. Do you think it could be loose and not directing the air in the right direction???