stock tachometer not working
09-26-2010, 01:55 AM
#1
Staging Lane
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stock tachometer not working ok the stock tachometer is not working. I just had a shop put in a 408 with a n02 kit, Trans just got redone and a new rearend. The guy at the shop said it was showing up on his computer just not in the car and he doesnt know what would of made it not work. the gauges never came out. Any one PLZ help???
09-26-2010, 09:46 AM
#2
It's probably wiring in the cam sensor extension; I see those needing to have some wires swap on half of them that I get. If once in a while the car farts or burbles during startup and cranks just a shade longer than it should, that's the most likely culprit. I would think that most shops would be expecting this issue on the LS2 stroker swap.
09-26-2010, 03:14 PM
#4
iron 408.. yes the car does burble and hesitate to start up every now and then.. so if we replace the cam sensor itself the problem should be resolved? Anyone have a part # or recommend a place to get one? Thanks guys we have been trying to figure this out for awhile.
Also, there is a CEL that we got checked out and confirmed that it WAS INDEED the cam sensor just fyi
Also, there is a CEL that we got checked out and confirmed that it WAS INDEED the cam sensor just fyi
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09-26-2010, 06:44 PM
#11
I have found the tach signal wire being PIN #10 white wire on the RED PCM connection, so I'll hook a voltmeter to that as well to see if were getting anything. Also, apparently it might be the pink/black wire on the back of the CMP itself so I'll check those too. Going to be kind of hard with a huge 300 shot direct port system on top of a FAST 92 though lol.
09-26-2010, 07:10 PM
#12
Sorry thought it was a 402 ...
Check the three wires at the cam sensor and eventually the sensor. No need to look at the PCM reference you are referring to; it comes from the crank signal. That's what the PCM is using as well. It's between the sensor and it's wiring most likely.
Check the three wires at the cam sensor and eventually the sensor. No need to look at the PCM reference you are referring to; it comes from the crank signal. That's what the PCM is using as well. It's between the sensor and it's wiring most likely.
09-26-2010, 07:13 PM
#13
Sorry thought it was a 402 ...
Check the three wires at the cam sensor and eventually the sensor. No need to look at the PCM reference you are referring to; it comes from the crank signal. That's what the PCM is using as well. It's between the sensor and it's wiring most likely.
Check the three wires at the cam sensor and eventually the sensor. No need to look at the PCM reference you are referring to; it comes from the crank signal. That's what the PCM is using as well. It's between the sensor and it's wiring most likely.
09-26-2010, 07:46 PM
#15
does anyone know if its possible to lower the motor just a couple inches without having to disconnect anything major? Like the radiator, abs lines etc. ?
09-26-2010, 10:00 PM
#16
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u need to unhook the rad hoses, ac comresser, the 6 k member bolts, 4 sway bar bolts, ans it wouldnt be a bad idea to unhook the wire harness from the pcm. or...... you can take the intake off and make your life much easier. that consists of throttle cable, fuel line, evap line, and 10 8mm bolts.
Last edited by novaflash2002; 09-27-2010 at 08:18 AM.
09-27-2010, 09:24 AM
#17
u need to unhook the rad hoses, ac comresser, the 6 k member bolts, 4 sway bar bolts, ans it wouldnt be a bad idea to unhook the wire harness from the pcm. or...... you can take the intake off and make your life much easier. that consists of throttle cable, fuel line, evap line, and 10 8mm bolts.
09-27-2010, 05:50 PM
#20
Is there any way to fix this now without having the original wiring? Do we have to cut and solder new wire and connectors on there to get it to work?