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Manual crank in an Auto car

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Old 09-28-2010, 10:53 PM
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Default Manual crank in an Auto car

I was doing the final assembly on my forged 6.0l and I didn't realize the used crank I picked up with the 6.0l bare block must have been from a manual tranny car. The machine shop must have re-installed it before I picked up the short block but I didn't notice it till this evening whan I roll the engine over on the stand to install the windage tray. I checked and the crank has the oil/freeze plug still installed. I have a complete 5.3l auto in my garage so I checked the rear flange and it seems there is a large machined plug installed in the crank.

Having always worked on auto tranny trucks, I have a couple of NOOB questions:

Will removing the pilot bearing casue any issues?

Once I remove the pilot bearing, what is the name or part number of the "machined plug" or is that just how cranks that are used in auto applications are machined?


Yes, I'm going to polish off the rust spots...

Old 09-29-2010, 02:55 AM
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I just pulled the pilot bearing out of the cranks and that was it. The converter fit fine. Just make sure you don't use the grease method to get it out or you could damage the plug inserted in the crank.
Old 09-29-2010, 07:50 AM
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Thanks NXZ28. I was afraid that the machined plug I show in the 2nd photo may help center the torque converter.

I did some searching before I finally made the post and ran into a few of the "I used the grease method and now the oil plug fell into the pan..." posts.

Anybody have a part number or name on that machined plug in the second photo?
Old 09-29-2010, 08:04 AM
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I can't see the photos at work. It is blocked of course. I will look at the photos tonight when I get home.
Old 09-29-2010, 08:06 AM
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I'm going to go ahead and say that the cranks are the same. Dont see why any manufacturer would design a totally different crankshaft based on weather the car will be auto or manual. Remove the Pilot bearing and go.
Old 09-29-2010, 08:27 AM
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I'm thinking you may have the early style crank, which won't work with a 4L60E tranny.
Old 09-29-2010, 09:57 PM
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Originally Posted by Mart00SS
I'm going to go ahead and say that the cranks are the same. Dont see why any manufacturer would design a totally different crankshaft based on weather the car will be auto or manual. Remove the Pilot bearing and go.
I agree. It wouldn't make fiscal sense to have a engine limited to one tranny.

Originally Posted by blsnelling
I'm thinking you may have the early style crank, which won't work with a 4L60E tranny.
Fortunately I have the .857" thick flange.
Old 09-29-2010, 10:14 PM
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Found this a moment ago. Sounds like the Truck Auto crankshafts don't have the hole drilled throuhgh the centerline so they probably just have a machined end piece like what is shown in the second photo posted above.

1998 early 4.3L 236, 255 V-6 1.62 thick flange
1998+up 4.3L 236, 255 V-6 1.500 thick flange
1999-2000 4.8L 312 V-8 M/T 1.250 thick flange
1999-2000 6.0L 215 V-8 1.250 thick flange
1999-2005 4.8L 482 V-8 A/T .857 thick flange
2001-2005 4.8L 482 V-8 M/T .857 thick flange
1999-2005 5.3L 216 V-8 A/T .857 thick flange
1997-2005 5.7L 216 V-8 .857 thick flange
2001-2005 6.0L 216 V-8 .857 thick flange

All GEN III crankshafts used in Camaro, Corvette and Firebird have a .857 thick flange and also have a freeze plug installed at the bottom of the pilot shaft hole. The 4.8, 5.3 + 6.0L don?t have the freeze plug. The drilled hole thru the centerline of the 5.7L LS1 & LS6 crankshafts allows a path to balance crankcase pressure within the lower crankcase. Doing so has eliminated possible oil consumption when the engine is operated over 4800 RPM.



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