6.0 iron block motor heads
#1
6.0 iron block motor heads
Quick question. Picked up a 6.0 iron block motor out of the yard the other day. Gonna freshen it up with new flat top slugs probiably on a 4.010 bore and throw a oil pump and bearings in it with a cam. I have a set of older TEA stage 1.5 heads here at home that were milled very little to ensure straightness, heads are probiably 5-6 years old. I don't have the sheet anymore but I think the chamber was like 62 or 63 cc's on those heads. I know the 6.0 castings are essentially LS6 replicas with a larger combustion chamber. Is it worth my while to freshen the 5.3 heads up and throw them on or do up the 6.0 heads with the newer technology and throw em on. I did some rough figuring and it's been awhile but I figured the compression would be about 10 : 1 on the 6.0 heads and about 11 : 1 on the already ported 5.3 heads so alittle more cylinder pressure etc on the 5.3 heads. I'm kinda leaning towards the 5.3 heads because I got them already, but being they need to be at least checked out I'm considering this. Thoughts and suggestions would be appreciated being I've been outta this for a bit. Thanks
#2
LS1TECH & Trucks Sponsor
iTrader: (4)
The 5.3l heads would probably work best for an all motor street car setup. With the larger valves they have you will have no lack of flow and the extra compression will give you more torque and low end power. Unless the 5.3l heads are damaged I would use them.
#3
Cool... Unfortunately I found something wrong with the motor last night. Crank is damaged. Got the motor pretty cheap and it was sold as a non runner so I knew I was taking a chance on it, (thought it was a valvetrain issue when I looked at it). Looks like everything but the crank is usable at this point, but I'll have to get the block looked at to be sure. But if I stroke it to 4" do you have the same thoughts John as far as the heads go or would you use the 6.0 heads in that case. Thanks.
#6
8 Second Club
iTrader: (3)
I don’t get the dyno graph on mph. And no torque.
RPM hookup not working?
On our dyno dynamics, was rare the rpm pickup didn’t work. When it didn’t, we calibrated the dyno vs the tach in the car and got it close. Then you get a torque reading
Locked is fine on the dyno. Even a single disk.
Forget the hero numbers. It’s highly useful fo dialing tq below and at the torque converter stall.
Shift extension seems right for that converter
Look for some et’s And mph.
if it ever drops below 100 degrees there
RPM hookup not working?
On our dyno dynamics, was rare the rpm pickup didn’t work. When it didn’t, we calibrated the dyno vs the tach in the car and got it close. Then you get a torque reading
Locked is fine on the dyno. Even a single disk.
Forget the hero numbers. It’s highly useful fo dialing tq below and at the torque converter stall.
Shift extension seems right for that converter
Look for some et’s And mph.
if it ever drops below 100 degrees there