thirdgen60

iTrader: (10)

Im working on making a standalone harness for my 86 camaro with a 6.0L. I am running a 700r4 with a manual valve body so i only need the harness for the fuel and spark. So far this is what i have eliminated from a stock 00 camaro M6 harness:

-All A/C related wiring
-Rear O2's
-EGR wiring
-AIR pump wiring
-EVAP wiring
-Oil level wiring
-Fuel tank pressure and level wiring
-Skip shift control wiring
-Reverse lockout wiring
-VSS wiring

I also attached a document of the pinouts and i high-lighted pins that i am going to remove.

So far i have mostly used this link :
https://ls1tech.com/forums/conversio...swap-faqs.html

There are still a few things that i am unsure about:

I dont need the VSS if im not controlling a transmission correct?

Do i need to use the alternator wire from the PCM or can i just use the existing wire on my car?

For the OBD2 wiring is it necessary to use the black ground for pin 4 and the black/white ground for pin 5, or can i just use the black for both or vice versa?

To wire the malfunction indicator, can i just wire the MIL control wire and a power wire to a light (im assuming the computer will ground that wire if there is a code)?

The tach output from the computer will that work with an autometer tach, or will i need a signal converter box?

My third gen only has one fan from the factory so can i just up wire fan relay #1 control to it and remove the wire for fans 2 & 3?

Let me know if any of the pins i am going to remove will be an issue or if anyone has any other suggestions.

Hopefully you guys have some answers for me and hopefully this will come in handy for someone else attempting to do the same.

thirdgen60

iTrader: (10)

Word file for red connector

thirdgen60

iTrader: (10)

Word file for blue connector

Rafko

iTrader: (1)

mite wanna keep the vss...you dont have to but it couldn't hurt to leave it...most guys use it......
u need the alterator wiring coming from the pcm...tells the computer voltage etc...think it is brown?
For the obd2 port i always wire the grounds together....dosent need two different grounds just some scanners are different...
you are dead nuts on with the mil indicator light function

not sure on the tach but i will get back to you on it...

Not fully understanding the fan question?...i used a realy to control two fans and tapped it into my ignition wire cause i had a truck pcm which used a fan clutch....

thirdgen60

iTrader: (10)

I dont need the vss because i have a mechanical speedo so i would actually have to go pretty far out of my way to use it. I was just wondering if the computer needs to know that info to control the engine for any reason or can it just be shut off like all the other stuff that doesn't get used.

As for the alternator wire, it is red on my harness (pin 15 "alternator L Terminal"), i figured that would just be the exciter wire? Shouldn't the pcm already know the voltage from the orange and pink power wires run to it?
I'm just asking because my alternator is already wired into my car and i would rather not change it if i don't need to.

To specify on the fan question, my fan is already wired into my car just through a relay and ignition power. My question is can i run the fan#1 relay wire to the relay so the fan is temperature controlled instead of just being on all the time?

To help put all of this in context, my car currently has a 6.0L with L92 heads and a carburator on it and i am in the process of putting fuel injection on it. Since it has already been running with the carb for quite awhile everything like the alternator, fan, speedo, starter, etc. is just wired to the car. So this harness willl solely run the fuel and spark so anything that doesn't relate to that is being removed.

Thanks for the info thus far

TomM

iTrader: (56)

Don't need the VSS for the application you mention, using straight mechanical speedo etc....

If your alternator is working now, you don't need to change a thing, the red is the exciter wire, but sounds like the one in your body/engine harness works, so leave it.

As for the fan, yes run the #1 fan relay control wire to the relay. It is a switched negative wire from the PCM. You will need to set your on and off temp. in the tune file.

Tach signal should be generated from crank pos. sensor thru PCM so your Autometer tach should work fine.

If you never plan to use a 60E again, check to see if the following wires have been removed.

Red - 2,6,8,42,45,47,48,51,63

Blue - 17,18,33,34,53.

The pinouts you posted look like A4, not M6, as I don't see CAGS solenoid etc......

This should get you started, maybe Pocket will chime in and help fill the holes, I'm sure I missed something.....

T,

thirdgen60

iTrader: (10)

Thanks for the info.

Now that you say it i think i do have the A4 pinouts but the harness is an M6. So far most of the wires are the same between the two though. I will have to find the M6 pinouts.

Eventually i am planning to use an 80E so i will probably have add some pins to the connectors since i started with an M6 harness but i will just bundle up wires like the vss since they should be the same.


And as far as getting a mail order tune is either speed inc or frost probably the best option?

thirdgen60

iTrader: (10)

One more question. Is it necessary to plug the empty holes in the connectors even though the computer will be mounted in the car. I would assume it wouldn't be a bad idea, if so what should i use to plug them?

TomM

iTrader: (56)

Either vendor is good, Frost would be my personal choice. Wouldn't worry about the holes, just put the plastic cover back over the wires if you have it, if not, it's not really an issue since it's inside the car.

T,

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

Read this

http://www.thirdgen.org/techboard/lt...third-gen.html

No, the PCM holes dont need to be filled. In addition to the double redundant rubber seals on the PCM connectors, the PCM itself is sealed at the terminals. If you're that **** about it, take some unused harness terminals and snip the wire off as short as possible, then stuff it in there

Jim_PA

iTrader: (9)

My Autometer tach wouldn't work until I fed in an additional key + wire to the feed signal with a resistor in-line. Also had to change tach output fields in HPtuners to 3/3

I cut the alternator wires as far back as I could in the harness. Brown and white go to key +, the brown wire got a resistor in-line. There's a bunch of threads (including my own ) on this subject, depending on what alternator you are using.

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

The tach booster wire is well covered. He has a 3rd gen camaro which wont need it, only the output recal

Second, the alt wires should not be cut "as far back..." or even at all. They are PCM controlled and unless he's using a truck alt, theres only one. For a LT1 swap, yeah, use the resistor trick on pin L, then combine the pair to one fused source, generally the fan fuse like it was from the factory. For an EFI LSx, no need to change anything, the PCM does the work

thirdgen60

iTrader: (10)

I am actually using a gen 1 alternator that i made a custom bracket for so the alternator is wired i think to the brown wire on the car. So it wont hurt anything to leave it that way and eliminate the alternator L terminal wire from the pcm correct?

So when i have the computer tuned i just need to tell them that im using an autometer tach?

Also, i do not even have a computer yet, the harness is from 00 so can i just use any computer from 99-02 or is it year specific?

Jim_PA

iTrader: (9)

So... I can put my alternator wires back into the factory harness on my swap?

WTF, this gets so frustrating

thirdgen60

iTrader: (10)

The way i take all of this is that there is no need for the pcm to control the alternator. So you can just wire it into your cars stock harness if you want to.

But if you dont already have it wired in it may just be easier to use the wire coming from the pcm.

Please correct me if im wrong.

Jim_PA

iTrader: (9)

Well, I already snipped the wires and ran them to an external key+ source, but if someone confirms that your take on it is correct, you can be sure I'll be out there re-soldering them back to the PCM harness, just to eliminate the unnecessary connection.

I guess the tach output signal is only on newer PCM's?

Oh well, sorry.. hope I didn't confuse you! -

LS1MCSS

iTrader: (18)

The engine will run without the vss but you may have problems with it trying to die when coming to a quick stop. Some people have had this problem because the pcm doesn't realize that the car is still rolling. It just knows you suddenly closed the throttle and occasionally the motor will die.

Pocket

iTrader: (22)

I wouldnt advise the old alt. They put out a dismal amount of amperage and its really going to be strained running the electronics heavy LSx engine. Even the stock LS1 alts are pretty low at 105 amps

Tell the tuner to set the tach output to V8 mode (LSx engines output a 4cyl signal)

Yes any 99-02 PCM will work as long as the harness is truck or Fbody



Use a LSx alt with the new engine


Sure, you're wrong

Jim_PA

iTrader: (9)

Yep, I am. Thanks

ZTwentyAteU

iTrader: (12)

you couldnt just set it to 4cyl mode?