so i pull my oil pan and this is what i found...
10-20-2010, 08:57 AM
#1
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so i pull my oil pan and this is what i found... 
im starting to feel like this whole lq4 motor is completely junked. the block is stuck and the intake manifold is too big for my car that the only thing even slightly worthy is the head. i must've went the wrong way. but im going to continue to move on and learn from it.
this look like metal shaving on the cylinder wall. i notice number 5 cylinder wall looks a lil dry. it's not rough but it's not shiny like the other cylinder walls. this is probably what prevent my block from crankin over. what do you guys suggest? do i have to bore my block a little bigger or could i get away with replacing the ring and bearing?
10-20-2010, 01:59 PM
#5
Looks like bearing material. Not a deal killer depending on what you paid for it. Get the windage tray off and give her a look see. If a rod punched threw someplace, yeah it's gone. If everything is relatively close to where it should be don't write it off until you get it totally apart and inspected.
10-20-2010, 02:32 PM
#7
Looks like bearing material. Not a deal killer depending on what you paid for it. Get the windage tray off and give her a look see. If a rod punched threw someplace, yeah it's gone. If everything is relatively close to where it should be don't write it off until you get it totally apart and inspected.
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10-20-2010, 05:04 PM
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had company the whole time but now im back on track. i remove the oil pump and the tray. i thought my ring mustve got stuck like if there was no oil in the block but now im seeing things different ever since i look inside. i got plenty of tiny debris around cylinder number 6 mostly but i honestly cant tell u for sure if that's where it originally came from because the motor is on a engine stand upside down so maybe the debris moved around and land on that cylinder. but here's something DEFINITELY worth lookin at. i heard of spun bearing but i never seen what a spun bearing looks like. i got a flat thin lookin sheet metal stickin out of the rod and it does look like some serious damage happen around the bearing. this is on cylinder 8. i try to remove the rod ... maybe im not really good with my eyes but how do u get the rod off the crank ? 2 bolt are 11MM but i dont see how they suppose to come apart?
Debris
<BR><BR><BR>the bearing??
Debris
<BR><BR><BR>the bearing??
10-20-2010, 06:27 PM
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btw when i say i dont know how the rod is suppose to come part because im used to seeing two parts on the rod. i should be able to take the 2 11mm bolt off and the main bearing should come off.. but this one looks like a 1 piece rod? i gotta replace the whole crankshaft? i know this dont sound right at all but it help clear my question a little better
10-20-2010, 06:44 PM
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10-20-2010, 07:06 PM
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okay i pulled one piston out. sorta had to pry the bearing off carefully. i really hope things dont get expensive now. i pulled this piston out and i still cant turn the crank over so there's probably another bad bearing in there that i didnt see. it's dark right now the lights i have isnt helpful but here is what i got so far.
this is the bearing that i point at earlier in the picture (the thin looking sheet metal stickin out the rod)
and hear is the rod bearing..(if that's what it's called)
this is the bearing that i point at earlier in the picture (the thin looking sheet metal stickin out the rod)
and hear is the rod bearing..(if that's what it's called)
10-20-2010, 07:36 PM
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a little more specific because i im pretty far in the block that there's only few things to pull out. in a rebuilt do you mean just change all the bearings?
10-20-2010, 07:43 PM
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no i mean pull the engine all the way apart heads crankshaft and hand have the block cleaned probably buy a crankshaft and new rods and pistons let a machine shop look at them to know for sure
10-20-2010, 08:02 PM
#17
Looks like that rod's screwed up too. Your crank may or may not be able to be turned. How do the cylinder bores look? Might as well bore it .030" and put a stroker 408 rotating assembly in there
10-20-2010, 08:14 PM
#18
Ok, I'm gonna step out on a limb here and say your crank is toast without seeing it. I'm also gonna step out on another limb and say it probiably did some damage on the mains too. Probiably a lack of oil someplace is what caused this and torched the bearings. Get all the rods out and mark what holes they came from with a gray sharpie. Also get the crank out and look at the bearings there. I'll bet they're fried. Get it all down and have a good machine shop look at just the block for now. Would probiably cost $50 or so but it's worth it. They have experience looking at this stuff and they can tell you what can and can't be fixed vs the money put into it. Figure out if the block is able to be reused within reason. If so then get an idea of what it would run to get the block back in shape to run again. Treat this like you're eating an elephant. You can only eat an elephant one way and that's one bite at a time. Solve the first problem completely before moving onto the next.
Probiably would be cheaper if the block is an acceptable donor to get an entire rotating assembly from sponsors -------> vs piecing one together. It's also worth your while to have your machinest price it out the parts too. He will probiably be more expensive than the sponsors on the right but a reputable machinist isn't gonna put a time bomb together they are gonna put it together the best way they know how and they know what has worked for them in the past.
Probiably would be cheaper if the block is an acceptable donor to get an entire rotating assembly from sponsors -------> vs piecing one together. It's also worth your while to have your machinest price it out the parts too. He will probiably be more expensive than the sponsors on the right but a reputable machinist isn't gonna put a time bomb together they are gonna put it together the best way they know how and they know what has worked for them in the past.
10-20-2010, 08:15 PM
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the cylinder bores looks okay. no real damage at all, still feel nice and smooth. im honestly not trying to go all crazy on my bottom end. this is going to be a daily driver. i just wanna repair it and put everything back together and complete my swap. i would like to just change the bearing and put all the rods and piston back on with new piston rings and bolt everything back up...
10-20-2010, 08:19 PM
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Ok, I'm gonna step out on a limb here and say your crank is toast without seeing it. I'm also gonna step out on another limb and say it probiably did some damage on the mains too. Probiably a lack of oil someplace is what caused this and torched the bearings. Get all the rods out and mark what holes they came from with a gray sharpie. Also get the crank out and look at the bearings there. I'll bet they're fried. Get it all down and have a good machine shop look at just the block for now. Would probiably cost $50 or so but it's worth it. They have experience looking at this stuff and they can tell you what can and can't be fixed vs the money put into it. Figure out if the block is able to be reused within reason. If so then get an idea of what it would run to get the block back in shape to run again. Treat this like you're eating an elephant. You can only eat an elephant one way and that's one bite at a time. Solve the first problem completely before moving onto the next.
Probiably would be cheaper if the block is an acceptable donor to get an entire rotating assembly from sponsors -------> vs piecing one together. It's also worth your while to have your machinest price it out the parts too. He will probiably be more expensive than the sponsors on the right but a reputable machinist isn't gonna put a time bomb together they are gonna put it together the best way they know how and they know what has worked for them in the past.
Probiably would be cheaper if the block is an acceptable donor to get an entire rotating assembly from sponsors -------> vs piecing one together. It's also worth your while to have your machinest price it out the parts too. He will probiably be more expensive than the sponsors on the right but a reputable machinist isn't gonna put a time bomb together they are gonna put it together the best way they know how and they know what has worked for them in the past.
:mad :