Need some Advice. I have Rod Knock.
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Need some Advice. I have Rod Knock.
So my 1998 Camaro A4, 123,000 miles, has a rod knocking. I have been researching options to get the car running again. Budget is 4000.00 and that has to include labor for pulling and installing. It is not something I can do. I have been reading here and trying to figure out what I want to do. I am wanting the car to be a daily driver that I can cruise across the country in reliably so no crazy monster motors please. Reliability and drivability are what I am looking for.
What I am thinking is
Remanufactured Long Block
Upgrade Intake Manifold
Long Tube Headers
Cam ---- what are your suggestions here
tune by Frost
I have also heard that the LQ4 and LQ9 blocks are cheaper (and heavier).
If you can through some advice my way I would greatly appreciate it or point me to some threads.
Thanks in advance.
Edit: What I am assuming is rod knock is a loud banging noise that starts immediately at start up and sounds like someone beating on the block with a hammer.
What I am thinking is
Remanufactured Long Block
Upgrade Intake Manifold
Long Tube Headers
Cam ---- what are your suggestions here
tune by Frost
I have also heard that the LQ4 and LQ9 blocks are cheaper (and heavier).
If you can through some advice my way I would greatly appreciate it or point me to some threads.
Thanks in advance.
Edit: What I am assuming is rod knock is a loud banging noise that starts immediately at start up and sounds like someone beating on the block with a hammer.
Last edited by Teacher Todd; 11-06-2010 at 12:04 PM.
#4
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Here's a new ls1 short block ( minus cam n such ) from sdpc for $3350 with upgraded rods and forged flat tup pistons.
http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-d...r/sdls6sb347sp
Then pop ur choice of cam, oil pump n timing chain, you'd be good to go other then heads.
http://sdparts.com/details/scoggin-d...r/sdls6sb347sp
Then pop ur choice of cam, oil pump n timing chain, you'd be good to go other then heads.
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Even better is...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-s...shipped-3.html
Buying the longblack will save you in labor & parts (head gaskets, bolts & so on). I talked to them a little over a month ago and they still had some.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-s...shipped-3.html
Buying the longblack will save you in labor & parts (head gaskets, bolts & so on). I talked to them a little over a month ago and they still had some.
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Even better is...
https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-s...shipped-3.html
Buying the longblack will save you in labor & parts (head gaskets, bolts & so on). I talked to them a little over a month ago and they still had some.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/sponsor-s...shipped-3.html
Buying the longblack will save you in labor & parts (head gaskets, bolts & so on). I talked to them a little over a month ago and they still had some.
Thanks for the ideas.
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Well got some info from my mechanic, what do you all think. All prices include shipping.
He can get me a new LS1 longblock for 3200.00. 12 month warranty. plus core
A rebuilt ls1 with a 5 year 100k parts and labor warranty for 2600.00. Not sure what heads are on it will find out. plus core, will put a small cam in this one.
or
I can go with a new LS6 Longblock for 3485.00 with a 12 month parts warranty. no core charge.
My budget was 3500.00 but I can try and stretch it for the LS6. Labor has been quoted at 700-1000.00.
What I want is a quick, fun, daily driver. I plan on taking it on road trips of over 2k miles and maybe an occasional stop light run. I am looking for reliability. I am leaning towards the LS6, but worried the 12 month parts only warranty and the fact I would not be able to put a cam in it while the block is out. Could down the road I guess.
I have a lid already, 85 mm Maf, and BBK SSi intake. I will be putting long tubes and ory on it and it already has a flowmaster exhaust. I plan to do a mail order frost tune. What are your suggestions about the above choices. I never plan to run nitrous or forced induction and there are no drag strips close by so I want be racing much.
He can get me a new LS1 longblock for 3200.00. 12 month warranty. plus core
A rebuilt ls1 with a 5 year 100k parts and labor warranty for 2600.00. Not sure what heads are on it will find out. plus core, will put a small cam in this one.
or
I can go with a new LS6 Longblock for 3485.00 with a 12 month parts warranty. no core charge.
My budget was 3500.00 but I can try and stretch it for the LS6. Labor has been quoted at 700-1000.00.
What I want is a quick, fun, daily driver. I plan on taking it on road trips of over 2k miles and maybe an occasional stop light run. I am looking for reliability. I am leaning towards the LS6, but worried the 12 month parts only warranty and the fact I would not be able to put a cam in it while the block is out. Could down the road I guess.
I have a lid already, 85 mm Maf, and BBK SSi intake. I will be putting long tubes and ory on it and it already has a flowmaster exhaust. I plan to do a mail order frost tune. What are your suggestions about the above choices. I never plan to run nitrous or forced induction and there are no drag strips close by so I want be racing much.
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#8
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Well got some info from my mechanic, what do you all think. All prices include shipping.
He can get me a new LS1 longblock for 3200.00. 12 month warranty. plus core
A rebuilt ls1 with a 5 year 100k parts and labor warranty for 2600.00. Not sure what heads are on it will find out. plus core, will put a small cam in this one.
or
I can go with a new LS6 Longblock for 3485.00 with a 12 month parts warranty. no core charge.
My budget was 3500.00 but I can try and stretch it for the LS6. Labor has been quoted at 700-1000.00.
What I want is a quick, fun, daily driver. I plan on taking it on road trips of over 2k miles and maybe an occasional stop light run. I am looking for reliability. I am leaning towards the LS6, but worried the 12 month parts only warranty and the fact I would not be able to put a cam in it while the block is out. Could down the road I guess.
I have a lid already, 85 mm Maf, and BBK SSi intake. I will be putting long tubes and ory on it and it already has a flowmaster exhaust. I plan to do a mail order frost tune. What are your suggestions about the above choices. I never plan to run nitrous or forced induction and there are no drag strips close by so I wont be racing much.
He can get me a new LS1 longblock for 3200.00. 12 month warranty. plus core
A rebuilt ls1 with a 5 year 100k parts and labor warranty for 2600.00. Not sure what heads are on it will find out. plus core, will put a small cam in this one.
or
I can go with a new LS6 Longblock for 3485.00 with a 12 month parts warranty. no core charge.
My budget was 3500.00 but I can try and stretch it for the LS6. Labor has been quoted at 700-1000.00.
What I want is a quick, fun, daily driver. I plan on taking it on road trips of over 2k miles and maybe an occasional stop light run. I am looking for reliability. I am leaning towards the LS6, but worried the 12 month parts only warranty and the fact I would not be able to put a cam in it while the block is out. Could down the road I guess.
I have a lid already, 85 mm Maf, and BBK SSi intake. I will be putting long tubes and ory on it and it already has a flowmaster exhaust. I plan to do a mail order frost tune. What are your suggestions about the above choices. I never plan to run nitrous or forced induction and there are no drag strips close by so I wont be racing much.
Last edited by Teacher Todd; 11-09-2010 at 10:45 PM.
#9
check out schwanke engines ,they sell ls short blocks for a good price.get some used 243s for $400 or 241s for $100.get a valve job and a TSP valve train pkg. TSP is having a great sale on a valve train pkg in the sponsors sales section.220 or 224r cam .
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If you get one of the ls1 & throw a cam in it you're probably going to void any warranty that it comes with it. Plus if you get the ls6 you should be able to sell off some of your ls1 parts to bring down the cost to below the cost of the new ls1 would be.
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I had a similar condition years ago with an Old School motor. I was planning on turning the crank, etc. The reality was that a rod bolt had stretched and put enough clearance on the rod cap and caused all the banging noise. I pulled the pan. removed all the rod caps and no damage to crank. Put in new rod bolts and it ran perfect.