Gears & Axles - Stock driveshaft + 12 bolt = bad idea?

Okay so I just had a Moser 12 bolt installed this past Friday with my stock driveshaft. Question is, should I be investing in the 3.5" driveshaft (alum/chrom) now or can it survive a little bit? (still on stock ta, lcas, phb)

my buddy has a 408 with a 9" 4.11s making 511rwhp/472rwtq.. he had the stock driveshaft on for the first couple dyno pulls.. until it snapped in half lol

my buddy has a 408 with a 9" 4.11s making 511rwhp/472rwtq.. he had the stock driveshaft on for the first couple dyno pulls.. until it snapped in half lol

Im making 415/399 right now. Ill most likely get the pst 3.5" alum driveshaft then haha

Okay so I just had a Moser 12 bolt installed this past Friday with my stock driveshaft. Question is, should I be investing in the 3.5" driveshaft (alum/chrom) now or can it survive a little bit? (still on stock ta, lcas, phb)

It's one of those "whats the point" situation if your running better rear but really cannot put the hammer on it.

Can you drive it? Yes

Should you race/beat on it? No

If I do, what should I worry about? Making sure your AAA membership is paid up.

http://shop.brutespeed.com/PST-35-Inch-Aluminum-Driveshaft-Free-Shipping-PST-35-Inch-Aluminum-Driveshaft.htm

Shipping is included in my price. Bob

i have an 8.8 with the stock ds and i beat the fuck out of my car i just wouldnt be doing any 6k dumps at the track

It's one of those "whats the point" situation if your running better rear but really cannot put the hammer on it.

Can you drive it? Yes

Should you race/beat on it? No

If I do, what should I worry about? Making sure your AAA membership is paid up.

rofl Yeah I'm investing in a driveshaft

http://shop.brutespeed.com/PST-35-Inch-Aluminum-Driveshaft-Free-Shipping-PST-35-Inch-Aluminum-Driveshaft.htm

Shipping is included in my price. Bob

that's exactly what I was looking at. BTW do you carry the 12 bolt Moser diff cover?

i have an 8.8 with the stock ds and i beat the fuck out of my car i just wouldnt be doing any 6k dumps at the track


haha well I don't do that period especially since I have wheel hop right now lol

Mine's 375HP with your rearend & stock driveshaft. Best time at the track 12.94 @ 113mph. Been to the track about 3 times on this setup. Gotta admit that my 60' times are slow by about .2 and no slicks or drag radials [easier on drive train]. Initially had a wheel hop issue that bent left side wheel studs. Drive shaft OK so far.

A dyno pull breaking a drive shaft? [no shock loads] Wow! Maybe already weakened?

damn man, where'd you pick the 12 bolt up from?

Mine's 375HP with your rearend & stock driveshaft. Best time at the track 12.94 @ 113mph. Been to the track about 3 times on this setup. Gotta admit that my 60' times are slow by about .2 and no slicks or drag radials [easier on drive train]. Initially had a wheel hop issue that bent left side wheel studs. Drive shaft OK so far.

A dyno pull breaking a drive shaft? [no shock loads] Wow! Maybe already weakened?

Ah nice. I guess it's all about luck with this stuff haha

damn man, where'd you pick the 12 bolt up from?



LOL pm'd so I don't clutter the thread

get some dr's and you wont have wheel hop i make a little over 4 at the wheels with a m6 with 4.10s and nitto 555r's and i dead hook 1st gear. not in this cold weather but about a month ago it would dead hook

Make sure the shaft isn't using china junk... Tell them to keep the china off the shaft

My stock aluminum held up to a lot of abuse. Sold it to a friend who's stocker failed under less power and on street tires. So?? Anything Can happen.

i snapped my stock drive shaft at about 80mph, talk about scary, and it caused alot of carrnage. Good call on getting a upgraded driveshaft.

I broke my factory aluminum shaft 5 yrs after everything in my sig went in in 2002...while doing 10 mph through a parking lot under no throttle...........then I put a steel one in........it lasted till I broke it about 2 months ago at about 80mph while cruising. Sheared clean like it was cut with a saw.

They'll all break when they're ready....even that 3.5" PST shaft..........

Most important thing to get is a front and rear drive shaft loop. You need one that craddles the shaft about 8 inches from the rear yoke to support any remaining shaft back there and one about 1 foot back from the front yoke. Thats the only way to keep a remaining piece of shaft in the rear from beating the hell out of things and possibly trashing your rear-end gear box.....not to mention hitting the pavement and launching the car into the air and killing your ass.

Those single DS loops that come on some torque arms.......they do nothing to keep the car from launching into the air.

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I broke my factory aluminum shaft 5 yrs after everything in my sig went in in 2002...while doing 10 mph through a parking lot under no throttle...........then I put a steel one in........it lasted till I broke it about 2 months ago at about 80mph while cruising. Sheared clean like it was cut with a saw.

They'll all break when they're ready....even that 3.5" PST shaft..........

Most important thing to get is a front and rear drive shaft loop. You need one that craddles the shaft about 8 inches from the rear yoke to support any remaining shaft back there and one about 1 foot back from the front yoke. Thats the only way to keep a remaining piece of shaft in the rear from beating the hell out of things and possibly trashing your rear-end gear box.....not to mention hitting the pavement and launching the car into the air and killing your ass.

Those single DS loops that come on some torque arms.......they do nothing to keep the car from launching into the air.

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^^^ what he said ^^

And if I at least had a front DS loop.........The remaining piece of the shaft that stayed in the tranny housing and spun for a little bit before it fell off would not have destroyed my tail housing. The loop would have just craddled it while it spun, but it would have stayed horizontal-to-the-ground......and I wouldn't have had to repair the tranny tail housing.

The other pics are the ~18" piece that remained attached to my rear-end gear box. It beat the shit out of the tunnel and my exhaust pipe. I'm lucky it didn't hit the ground and launch my car at 80mph.

****Dual loops....a must for race cars or street cars...IMO. I'm getting two installed.****

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Alum DS on the top, steel on the bottom. Car is forged LS1 with 5.3 heads, MS4 cam, twin disk, stock T56 9" with 4.10s and a wide crappy nitto tire. The car just got done a week before. On the 4th launch it did that. Car went 8.0 at 93 the pass before it broke.
Car got out of the water box, then went to launch. 4k launch but no go. Twisted it like silly putty.

http://i997.photobucket.com/albums/af92/texaswolf1/f59fcde9.jpg

It is now circumsized.

Thanks for the responses guys. I am now scared to shit to drive my car at 80mph lmfao



I'm only making 415whp 399wtq right now. I figured the 3.5" PST ds would be fine for me until I started adding more power or putting a different engine in. When I do start with more power a better/stronger drive shaft will be installed along with all the necessary safety equipment.

stock 4th gen driveshafts are SHIT, my buddy has twisted 2 on street tires in a bolt on 6 speed car with stock rear

I had a chromoly unit made in OKC for $220. But not before my old driveshaft took out a brand new transmission, knocked a hole in the floor, ruined the pinion yoke, and destroyed my duals on the dyno.

Cheap insurance.

Thanks for the responses guys. I am now scared to shit to drive my car at 80mph lmfao






LOL....your car can still get launched and land on its roof doing 50mph if the broken DS hits the ground just right.......

Just get dual loops and go nuts, who cares if they break then. No need to pay big dollars for them either, they can be made in your garage and tac welded into place easily in minutes.
A steel factory drive shaft is all you need. I don't see how any other custom "expensive" shaft is gonna be much better, especially if its just for your street car.

Its a hit or miss thing. My friend has been drag racing for 4 years on his low 11 second car with a factory drive shaft...its still perfectly fine. YET...I broke my aluminum one going 10 mph and my steel one cruising at 80mph....go figure!!!!!!

Same with factory 10 bolt rear-ends.....some just will not break. My same friend is also on a stock rear-end running for 4 years.......go figure again!!!!

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I guess I am lucky, I got the stock steel one.

I broke my stock DS at about 120 on the highway at WOT...... LUCKY for me it broke at the rearend and it just fell down and dragged behind my car until I got stopped. That same day I bought a 3.5" chromoly DS and a DS saftey loop. I refuse to go WOT until I get that in.

I broke my stock DS at about 120 on the highway at WOT...... LUCKY for me it broke at the rearend and it just fell down and dragged behind my car until I got stopped. That same day I bought a 3.5" chromoly DS and a DS saftey loop. I refuse to go WOT until I get that in.

Me too......since my steel one broke a couple months ago....I ain't doing nothing crazy till my dual loops go in and my new TQ arm with crossmember.

Then I think back...........For the past 8 years I would go WOT and take my car all the way to 150, 160, 170mph like 2-3 times a week........hahahahahaha.....I consider myself lucky to be alive. :angel:

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