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dual clutch opinions?

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Old 11-10-2010, 10:30 AM
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Default dual clutch opinions?

I'm building a 402 inch stroker with LS3 heads, LS3 intake, etc. Horsepower is expected to be at or slightly above 500RWHP. Maybe a 150 shot down the road, maybe not.

I'll visit the track, but this will be mostly street driven, so I want good drivability, easy engagement, etc. Of course, I also want it to survive my trips to the track.

I think that for the sake of good street manners, I want to go with a dual-disk style setup. I've had my eye mostly on the Ram and the McLeod clutches, mainly because those are what I seem to see the most of. I would really like to stay at or below $1k (including new flywheel) unless there's a very compelling reason to go beyond that. Anybody have opinions and/or personal experiences to share?
Old 11-10-2010, 11:36 AM
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I have a McLeod RST and went with a twin for the exact reasons you mentioned. I do make less power than you will and no nitrous either but I left myself plenty of room if I want to up the power level later on. Zero chatter, easy clutch pedal, and holds perfectly so far although no track trips yet. I bought the billet steel flywheel with it and want to say it came out to around $1100 or so.
Old 11-10-2010, 08:16 PM
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My OZ700 bit the dust finally (15k miles and 2 clutch discs later). I just bought a Mcleod RXT, making 778rwhp on the bottle and doing 5k+ dumps at the track. I street drive about 6k a year and do Standing Mile racing, so I hope the choice was the right one. Havent seen any complaints anywhere on the RXT or RST clutches.
Old 11-11-2010, 10:04 AM
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If memory serves you have an LS motor and T56 installed correct? If so, our SC09SST Super-Twin would be a great option for an LS based application with this output. It is rated to handle 900lb.-ft at the crank and will be easily daily drivable. It is also rebuildable too which means that you save on cost when the time comes for another unit. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks!
Old 11-12-2010, 02:54 AM
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I picked up my ACT twin for under 1000$, and that includes a Chrome-moly flywheel.
Awesome driveability and holds a ton of power.
Old 11-12-2010, 11:19 AM
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Does anyone know if the mcleod units would work on a LS6 cts-v? Which flywheel and slave cylinder would I need?
Old 11-14-2010, 04:11 PM
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Originally Posted by killernoodle
Does anyone know if the mcleod units would work on a LS6 cts-v? Which flywheel and slave cylinder would I need?
Stock slave, Mcleod has a billet steel flywheel, or an aluminum one availabale.
Old 11-14-2010, 06:23 PM
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i know u said twin but a monster will do everything you mentioned. they are very driveable clutches. and will stay within your budget
Old 11-14-2010, 06:42 PM
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Originally Posted by Brief Encounter
I picked up my ACT twin for under 1000$, and that includes a Chrome-moly flywheel.
Awesome driveability and holds a ton of power.
Not to jack OP's thread but how much power? I too will be looking for a system for my build with great driveability...
Old 11-14-2010, 11:13 PM
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The one I have is the T1SR-G01.
It has one puck-type disk and one full face organic and is rated at 1150ft. lbs.
They offer an entire range from 800-1500 ft.lbs depending on what you are looking for.
Old 11-15-2010, 08:15 PM
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If your planning on upping the HP like you stated running nitrous on top. I might look at running a twin. Im running a Fidanza Carbon Twin setup and its in the $ range. Drives like stock pedal. A little more aggressive when cold in morning, but smoothes right out after warmup. Pedal is very consistant. Slips well as I use it as my DD, but grabs like hell and kinda shocks the rear when launching or a slip to dump situation. Clutch is controlled by stock master and slave cylinder a functions fine. But I will be upgrading to a Tick master. I'm really happy I spent the extra $$ and so far have been happy with my decision. Hope it helps but after 3 clutches in a little over 1 year nothing is overkill when it drives like stock but can handle the fury when I unleash it. Do it right the first time to go twin.
Old 11-16-2010, 11:05 AM
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Wow I remember you from WAY back in the day on thirdgen.org. I was 89ROC on there. Honestly, I would just stick with a single disc. I offer a Stage 3 thats good for 700hp, and is very streetable. Its a full 12in disc/pp setup. Check out the websites in my sig.
Old 11-18-2010, 12:13 PM
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Originally Posted by TDP
Wow I remember you from WAY back in the day on thirdgen.org. I was 89ROC on there. Honestly, I would just stick with a single disc. I offer a Stage 3 thats good for 700hp, and is very streetable. Its a full 12in disc/pp setup. Check out the websites in my sig.
Your own description says that "it works like an on/off switch". That really doesn't sound like the kind of drivability that I'm looking for. Any plans to develop an organic twin disk setup?
Old 11-19-2010, 01:37 AM
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Originally Posted by Jim85IROC
Your own description says that "it works like an on/off switch". That really doesn't sound like the kind of drivability that I'm looking for. Any plans to develop an organic twin disk setup?
Thats just the Stage 3. It's really not as bad as it sounds, but any 6-puck setup will do that. Just takes a little getting used to.
The Stage 2 is a dual friction setup that drives just about like stock, maybe 15-20% more pedal pressure. This one is good for 600hp, so it will work fine for your 402. $409 for the basic kit, or $759 if you want the lightweight billet flywheel and new slave cylinder. Free shipping and free remote bleeder with this.
Anyway, just wanted to let you know about this before you shell out $1200+ for a twin disc.
I am currently working on a twin disc setup, and it should be ready by Spring. If all goes well, then I should have a WAY lower price than any other company. I still think its overkill for you though.
Old 11-24-2010, 07:51 AM
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Thanks for the feedback. The twin disk may be overkill now, but I always like to have room for expansion. I'm not buying right away, so maybe I'll wait and see what your twin disk looks like in the spring.

I'm concerned that I may be pushing the limits of the stage 2... I'm shooting for 500+ to the wheels, so I'm going to be right at or above 600 at the flywheel.

I have another question though... what's the longevity like on a twin disk compared to a single disk? Does the additional surface area of the twin disk translate into better (i.e. longer) wear? It seems that a lot of people on here get very low mileage out of their clutches, though I'm guessing that they are a lot harder on their stuff than I'll likely be, but if the twin disk is going to last longer, that seems like it could help offset the initial cost to an extent.
Old 12-01-2010, 12:23 PM
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Just FYI, the McLeod RST can be had for $650 or less depending on sales, RXT for a little more. I feel bad for anyone that paid MSRP for one of those clutches...
Old 12-02-2010, 11:03 AM
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If you want to stay with a single and need great drivability and capacity then our Stage 3+ would be a fantastic option. Please let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,
Old 12-02-2010, 12:57 PM
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Old 12-06-2010, 02:58 PM
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Originally Posted by JoeyGC5
Stock slave, Mcleod has a billet steel flywheel, or an aluminum one availabale.
So I just need a regular FBody flywheel with this? Any old flywheel will do?
Old 12-08-2010, 11:11 AM
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Originally Posted by killernoodle
So I just need a regular FBody flywheel with this? Any old flywheel will do?
You can use the OEM LS-1/LS-6 Flat style flywheel with our RST/RXT units or use our Billet Steel flywheel
(460530) or Billet Aluminum flywheel (560530).



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