LT1TA

iTrader: (17)

just got my car tuned for the second time. Just wasted $600 again. I have been having issues with my cold starts for forever now. I can not press the gas at all in my bird or it will drop to around 200rpm, or like yesterday stall. It takes about 30 minutes of idling to get it to ride like normal. I have posted a thread before, but we all decided to get a tune. I have gone that route. Either something was missed, or there is another problem. Throw something at me so we can shoot down the theory. Those who watch house will know what i mean. here's what
i'm talking about on a good day. Car is a h/c/i/e 99 ls1.

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=AdcRhH-O2No

http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=9pETDaXcU1E

Frost

iTrader: (45)

This is the tuning section. How can anyone where help you if you don't have tuning software or are otherwise unable to post your log and tune?

tsench

iTrader: (15)

ill take it back to that tuner make him correct it

LT1TA

iTrader: (17)

oh trust me i will. I just want to have a couple of ideas while i'm there to remind him to check on. To FROST: well if I just got "tuned" for the 2nd time and i'm still having issues, i sort of hoped someone in the "tuning" section has some experience with what the videos reflect, and can try to help me resolve the issue. I guess I put too much thought into what is allowed in the "tuning" section. Seems like regardless of where i post threads, there are always a couple of people who has something like that to say..

Frost

iTrader: (45)

I don't mean any disrespect here... how are supposed to help diagnose the tune if you can't provide it or a data log of the issue? Here is how I would help you if you had software...

What are your IAC counts at hot idle? Is your TPS reporting 0% at true 0% throttle? Generally, that swing at startup is not enough airflow. Without the the ability to see the variables above, I don't know how to tell you to set things up. You can try opening the TB blade screw a half-turn or so at a time and resetting the TPS and seeing what you get. After the first half turn, maybe use 1/4 turns there after.

This is a very basic issue though. It shouldn't be out of the grasp of any tuner that does this for $$.

ocshaman

YOu should have taken it to the first person who "tuned" your car and told them they didn't

Mooneyed

iTrader: (1)

Drop the cash and get EFILive/HPtuners/LS1edit(whatever floats your boat).. Read, research, read some more, and make the necessary changes. Then you will never have to pay $600 for a **** tune again..

Just my $.02

Ghostintheshell

Mine is doing something similar...
My tune didn't solve the issue - but a clip holding my throttle cable is missing (I've ordered a new one) and my throttle was reading partially open at all times.

I am hoping this fixes my issue. Is a vac leak possible?

wait4me

iTrader: (10)

Do like frost said, Just open your throttle blade up a few turns, that should clean alot of that out.

The throttle follower table needs to be tweeked if that dont fix it. Since it is a throttle movement causing that fluctuation after the rev..

crainholio

iTrader: (2)

I don't think anybody is accusing you of putting in too much thought.

Put some thought into that...

macca_779

Needs more desired air from cold and as Jesse mentioned the follower values could use some attention too. Very easy to fix for a competent tuner.

LT1TA

iTrader: (17)

ok, now we're getting somewhere. I know for sure that the tuner did not touch my tb screw and i know i screwed with it after my first tune didn't do the trick. So I will definitely either try turning the screw myself and monitoring it, or taking it to the tuner so he can fix it himself and get his $600 worth of work. I have, since the first tune, relocated from ga to fort polk, la. So going back to the original tuner is out of the question. I don't mean to be a jackass, but all I was looking for was some advice like this to go back with and not just, "Hey, your tune sucks!" thanks for the advice guys.

Frost

iTrader: (45)

If YOU have to be the one telling your tuner what to do, you definitely picked the wrong tuner.

gofastwclass

iTrader: (2)

HA HA HA HA HA!!! Bloody genius! ^ ^ ^

LT1TA

iTrader: (17)

yep, only problem is, i stay about 3 hours away from thunder racing. I would love to have taken my car there, but that is a pretty far ride to take a car that stalls at the end of my driveway lol, so I had to play the safer route. I was on a very short timetable as well. I agree that I should not take it to someone who bashes another tuner and can't even match the tune that was supposed to be so bad... the car is getting painted right now so I can't play with the blade. Is that something that will correct itself once the screw is adjusted, or will parameters need to be changed in the logs since the tb blade has been altered from the pre-tuning setting?

Frost

iTrader: (45)

It was never set up front (MUST be done before any airflow tuning since it all works around this airflow), so there is no way that idle airflow tuning could have even been done. Doing what I mentioned will help cold start and keep it from stalling most of the time, but the added airflow can bring other problems. Other problems being exaggerating any cam surge that you already have, hanging or slow return to idle when moving, etc.

white01ss

iTrader: (37)

I had a similar idle problem after my battery disconnect switch was cycled, which clears the PCM ram of all its learned idle data. So after the battery was back on the idle had to be relearned which looked even worse that your video. Eventually it would learn the idle and would be good until the next disconnect.

What fixed my problem was the idle learning tables. In EFILive the Idle Learned Airflow Correction and Idle Direct Airflow Correction tables control how the idle airflow is learned. There's a sticky on the EFILive forum about idle tuning that talks about how the stock tables have trouble learning big cams.

http://forum.efilive.com/showthread....ul-Info-Inside

On the LAC table I cut about 50% at 40 rpm, 33% at 60 rpm and 25% from 80 rpm on. On the DAC table I shifted down the entire table down one row. So the 40 rpm row went down to the 60 rpm row, 60 to the 80 and so on. The rational is that big cams fluctuate much more than a stock cam, so a 40 rpm movement is normal so unlike stock cam, there's nothing for the PCM to "learn". To give credit I'm repeating from SSpdDmon's sticky which is a must read.

SmokingWS6

iTrader: (1)

$600 for a basic heads/cam tune on a Fbody and he can't get it to idle?? I need to start charging more...