TEX T101 bellhousing/clutch info?
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TEX T101 bellhousing/clutch info?
I've got a TEX T101 transmission and a pace performance bellhousing. My question is what stock clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel combination do I need to use. I want something that will last a season or two at ~400whp. I'm sure one of the LSX clutch and pressure plates combos is sufficient but I wasn't sure which one would fit inside this bellhousing.
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I've got a TEX T101 transmission and a pace performance bellhousing. My question is what stock clutch, pressure plate, and flywheel combination do I need to use. I want something that will last a season or two at ~400whp. I'm sure one of the LSX clutch and pressure plates combos is sufficient but I wasn't sure which one would fit inside this bellhousing.
You can use a any of the stock LS1/6/7 clutches and their matching flywheels. Look at my build thread. I am using the same bellhousing but with a Richmond 6 speed. Many of the issues are the same with the T101.
Andrew
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First count the teeth on the input shaft of the T101 to make sure you didn't get a 29 spline version. Next you will most likely need a different bearing retainer. Does your present bearing retainer have a long snout for the throw out bearing?
You can use a any of the stock LS1/6/7 clutches and their matching flywheels. Look at my build thread. I am using the same bellhousing but with a Richmond 6 speed. Many of the issues are the same with the T101.
Andrew
You can use a any of the stock LS1/6/7 clutches and their matching flywheels. Look at my build thread. I am using the same bellhousing but with a Richmond 6 speed. Many of the issues are the same with the T101.
Andrew
Edit: Looked at your thread and it helped a lot! Thanks!
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Thanks Andrew, It is a 26 spline input shaft but I don't know if its a "short" or "long" bearing retainer. The bearing retainer is made by Quartermaster and has an O.D. of 1 3/8in where the throwout bearing would slide.
Edit: Looked at your thread and it helped a lot! Thanks!
Edit: Looked at your thread and it helped a lot! Thanks!
Andrew
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A picture of the bearing retainer would be helpful. As I recall all of the Quarter Master bearing retainers had snouts, but they also had a built in step so that one of their race bearings can be properly positioned with their clutches. You will probably be OK. As you saw in my build thread I used quite a few shims to get the TOB positioned properly with my LS7 clutch. The input shaft length on the T101 should be exactly the same as my Richmond 6 spd: 6.66" from the face of the trans to the tip of the input shaft. You will also need to use the LS7 pilot bearing as I did. For sanity sakes, I would mock up the bellhousing and the transmission without the clutch. That way you can clearly see how far the tip of the input shaft engages with the pilot bearing.
Andrew
Andrew
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Andrew
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Glad to be of help. Looking forward to your updates. The T101 is a great transmission. I would double check to see if it has a bearing or bushing in the tailshaft housing. If its a bearing, you will need to get a special hardened yoke. They are available from Mark Williams and other vendors. The T101 uses a standard TH400/Muncie M22 32 spline output shaft.
Andrew
Andrew
One thing i'm also going to look into adding is an external pump setup as mine does not have an internal pump, nor is the casing machined to accept one. I'm just looking for something to circulate the oil not spray directly on the mainshaft like the internal pump does. The only way I can justify this in my head is the fact that there won't be too much radiant heat on the trans casing just the heat generated internally. Here's a question, is the internal pump needed on nascar style chassis because of the radiant heat from the headers or is the heat for the most part generated internally?
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Both seem to have some play, I haven't measured either but the output is worse. From just feeling it, I would say the output shaft is ~ .008in. I will find out if there is a needle bearing or bushing in the tail housing shortly. Haven't left work yet
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Ok here are some pics. Looks like the input shaft is 6.6in from the mating face of the tranny. Good. The pilot shaft O.D. is .585in? The tailshaft definitely has a bushing with a grease fitting in the side. Now I guess need to bolt the tranny up to the block. I take back what I said earlier, the tailshaft has less play than the input shaft. The tailshaft actually has hardly any play where the input shaft moves a good .008in - .010in.
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Ok here are some pics. Looks like the input shaft is 6.6in from the mating face of the tranny. Good. The pilot shaft O.D. is .585in? The tailshaft definitely has a bushing with a grease fitting in the side. Now I guess need to bolt the tranny up to the block. I take back what I said earlier, the tailshaft has less play than the input shaft. The tailshaft actually has hardly any play where the input shaft moves a good .008in - .010in.
The bearing retainer definitely has the step that I mentioned before, but it should not cause any issues.
What throwout bearing do you plan to use?
Andrew
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Everything seems good. The input will have some play because it only has one bearing inside the transmission to support it. The pilot bearing will support it on the other side. The output shaft should have virtually zero play.
The bearing retainer definitely has the step that I mentioned before, but it should not cause any issues.
What throwout bearing do you plan to use?
Andrew
The bearing retainer definitely has the step that I mentioned before, but it should not cause any issues.
What throwout bearing do you plan to use?
Andrew
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Well I was thinking this one would work as the I.D. is 1 3/8in and it has the shims. The only thing that looks questionable to me is where the "anti-rotation" stud will go. Mine has what looks like a 4in bolt circle diameter.
Andrew
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Here is a link to my build thread.
http://www.vadriven.com/forums/showthread.php?t=311355
Just installed the engine this past Friday.
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