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iTrader: (10)

Well, with my 93 Full Size Blazer being a now-defunct project that ended up needing WAYYYY more than just a swap, I picked up an 89 K5 Blazer with a TBI. IMO is a REAL Blazer, solid axles, removable top, etc. It is a driver, but the engine and trans are tired, like 662,058 miles tired. Anyhow, I still have a ton of swap parts from an 03 4x4, transmission, odds and ends, harness, intakes, manifolds, PCM, etc.
Here she is, the one and only.



Potential swap issues...

Transfercase and speedo are cable drive. 89 Was the only year of the 241 and a cable driven speedometer. I believe Dakota Digital makes a VSS output that retains the cable drive for the speedo.

Length? Are there any length differences between the 700R4 and the 4l60E. Both using factory case adapters.

I also want to keep the shifter position switch, which means I need to figure out a way to get the shift linkage on the transmission. I think Lokar makes a conversion to cable, not sure what else I can do with it. Suggestions?

Clearance? I want to keep the truck stock height. Will a truck oil pan work or should I go with an F-bod?

Fuel system? I have a Weldon inline pump I can use, but I would actually rather use an in-tank pump. This is going to be a tow rig so nothing more than the standard 255lph will be needed. Is there a drop in high pressure pump that can be used?

Cooling. I CAN go e-fans, but I'm on the fence. Electric fans are nice, but clutch fans have their advantages when pulling a load. Although, with the size of the radiator on this thing, I seriously doubt I will have any issues.

Accessories? Are there clearance isssues with truck stuff? Would it be easier to use an LS drop out from a corvette to get those accessories? Obviously if I go vette or f-bod, that will limit me to E-fans. A/C is not necessary to get it on the road, but I definately need it down here. Docs blocks should have what I need as far as that goes.

Engine mounts. Tons of conversion mounts out there, anyone know which ones work well in these trucks?

Wiring is not a concern, a "local" shop will be taking care of it for me, I don't have the time to dick around with it. They have done hundreds of swaps and have an excellent reputation. I guess this also covers my gauges.

Need to get a list together, what am I missing? The truck is mobile, and when it happens I need everything on hand so I can drop the TBI out and get it driving within 2 weeks.

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iTrader: (10)

I have answered a few questions by hitting up local dealers and burning up "the google" I am posting this here as both a help to anyone needs it, and a backup just in case my computer ***** the bed.

______________________________________________
Transfer case/adapter information

T-case is NP241C passenger side drop, six bolt pattern, one year only (AFAIK) cable drive speedo

1995 and older 700r4 adapter is 3-1/2" face to face
1996+ 4l60e adapter is 5-1/16" face to face (part number #15005474)

700r4 Case length = 23-3/8"
4l60e Case length = 21-3/4

700r4 Overall length = 26-7/8"
4l60e Overall length = 26-13/16"

Length difference is negligible
______________________________________________
Standalone wiring info

This may or may not work for other people, I have compiled this for how I will modify the 2003 DBW harness using an underhood relay/fuse center. It is not 100% complete yet, but will be soon. The A/C signal from the old truck and PNRD switch from the LSx transmission will both be retained to work just as they do in the donor truck to prevent any stalling or other issues that might present themselves. The whole point of this swap is to have a rock solid driver that can tow and play in the dirt, not a race vehicle or show truck.

2003 ECM harness mods

Fuse block connector C2 - pin B8 - orange - Hot at all times (to PCMB fuse)

Fuse block connector C2 - pin B6, B10, and A12 - PNK - Hot in run and start (to 15a PCM1 fuse)

Fuse block connector C2 - pin F3 - PPL - Hot in start (to 10a CRANK fuse)

Fuse block connector C2 - pin D10, C10, and B9 - PNK - Hot in run and start (to INJ1 fuse)

Fuse block connector C2 - pin E6, E10, and D9 - PNK - Hot in run and start (to INJ2 fuse)

Fuse block connector C2 - pin E7 - PNK - Hot in run and start (to O2B fuse)

Fuse block connector C2 - pin D8 - PNK - Hot in run and start (to O2A fuse)

Fuse block connector C2 - pin E11 - PNK - Hot in ACCY, run and start (to IGN0 fuse)

ECM connector C1 - pin 58 - DK GREEN - to OBD2 Data Link Connector

Fuse block connector C2 - pin B7 - BLK - GRD to left rear of engine

Fuse block connector C2 - pin A7 - DK GRN/WHT - signal to fuel pump relay (stand alone relay w/8ga power wire, possible racetronix kit)

ECM connector C2 - pin 54 - PPL - to fuel level sender

Fuse block connector C2 - pin C12 - PPL - to PIN D of stop lamp switch

Fuse block connector C2 - pin A10 - LT BLU - to PIN A of stop lamp switch (VIA 15a veh. stop fuse)

Fuse block connector C3 - pin A4 - ORN - to Hot at all times - (15a EVAP fuse)

Fuse block connector C2 - pin A9 - PNK - hot in run or start (15a ETC/ECM fuse)

TAC Module C1 - pin 4 - DK BLU - to cruise control

TAC Module C1 - pin 5 - GRY/BLK - to cruise control

TAC Module C1 - pin 14 - GRY - to cruise control

TAC Module C2 - all pins - to accelerator pedal

ECM connector C2 - pin 46 - BRN/WHT - to MIL (check engine light)

ECM connector C2 - pin 10 - WHT - to TACH

1BadAction

iTrader: (10)

Pic added to first post.

as far as the "issues" go, this is where I'm at.

T-case: see above

Shifter: appears to be the same between the 700 and the 4L but I still need to verify.

Clearance: This is a little more tricky, according to most things I have seen, the crossmember will need to be modified or replaced, I'm looking into this now.

Fuel system: Since the truck was TBI stock, the tank is baffled with an in-tank pump. ACDelco EP381 is a drop-in replacement, but I still need to find out if a complete pump bucket from a turbo buick will work like it does on the TBI GMT400 trucks.

Cooling: Stock clutch fan

Accessories: Truck accessories and the short sanden compressor from a V8 Trailblazer. This leaves plenty of clearance for the conversion mounts and frame clearance problems should be minor.

Engine mounts: Laser cut 5/16" 3 bolt conversion mounts... I made the mistake of buying trans-dapt mounts before and they were complete pieces of ****.

Wiring: I'll be making an ECM harness and integrating it into the trucks harness. For the time being I will use the stock gauges and cable drive speedo, but once the truck is up and running I will swap to an mid-80s C60 tach cluster with an electric speedo.

BlueMagicSS

iTrader: (4)

Nice to see a K5 getting the LS swap. I have an 89 K5 myself that I plan on doing after my Iroc is done. Truck looks great and I'm looking forward to seeing this swap. You can look on 67-72chevytrucks.com and they have a forum where people are doing the swap. You may be able to find more info about it there. Unfortunately I'm not sure how many people are using 4wd with the 4L60e swap as well. Hope this at least helps a little and I can't wait to see the progress. Also, here's a pic of my K5 this past Summer, I've had it for 6 years on Valentines day.

-Matt

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iTrader: (10)

Matt, nice rig, these things are freakin addictive and have a real "unique" ride.

Just got done taking some measurements, it's looking like the best way to keep the a/c low and not move the driveline is to slide the engine mounts back 1-1/4" and buy a custom crossmember. I hate to buy a luxury item like that but fitment wise I think it makes the most sense. Otherwise I would need to move the a/c and I'm not a fan of that idea.

Btw, signed up there, but haven't been approved yet.

1BadAction

iTrader: (10)

Scratch that... looks like these http://dirtydingo.com/store/product_...oducts_id=1308 may be the answer to the crossmember issue. IF they don't raise the engine any, that would be a deal breaker.

BlueMagicSS

iTrader: (4)

Thanks, hopefully soon it'll get the 6.0/4l60e treatment itself soon. Those mounts look like they'll do the trick. What about a transmission mount? and have you found a solution to using the 4wd? I thought about somehow working it to use the electronic 4wd which would be good for linkage, but I don't know about finding a transfer case that is a passenger side drop.

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iTrader: (10)

Transfer case and mount stays stock in its factory location, no adapters needed other than the GM part #15005474 that mates the case to the late model 6 bolt tailshaft 4L60e. NP241s all have the same bolt pattern, even though one is a passenger drop and the late models (up to 2007 or so) are driver side drops.

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iTrader: (10)

Just because I'm doing a swap, doesn't mean I'm letting it go without what it needs. The goal is to sell the good running TBI setup complete with the 700R4 to recoup a little bit of the swap costs. I figure whatever I get for the TBI motor/harness/trans, can go toward little things after the truck is up and running. Like finding a real nice gauge cluster with tach or a new dash pad...



Today I pulled the trans pan, cleaned it up, and installed a new trans filter with 6 quarts of DEX VI. I had to shower in degreaser, but it was worth it. The trans feels much better than it did. Jug in the background is the old trans fluid, NOT engine oil, lol

jkade72

iTrader: (23)

The shifter should be the same....about 100% on that. Heck I used a th400 linkage with a 4l60e in a conversion I did.

I used carshop inc 1" set back plates on my k5, bolts in same holes as old motor but moves trans 1" forward. If you try to leave the trans in the original place the drivers side head will contact the firewall.

I am using a truck pan... it will work fine and the truck acc will work fine too but the ac compressor will not work and you will have to mod the passenger motor mount cup. This is if you use the plates I used, were my motor is setting is about were they have to sit unless you want to mod the engine crossmember.

Get a 96 up vortec pump from a full size truck, it will be a direct swap with you old pump.





This is my mock up motor in there but you get the idea.

1BadAction

iTrader: (10)

hmmm... so the firewall hit the drivers head? how much interference, roughly?

Those cups sit alot farther forward than I remembered. I have a few other ideas also that I'll check into as far as mounts and such. Thanks for the info, it will save me some headaches.

jkade72

iTrader: (23)

The drivers side head was all the way up to the firewall, you couldn't get a piece of paper between the 2. You could weld a extension to the back of the motor stand and make it work and might use a stock truck a/c compressor then. If I had been gonna run ac that is what I would do, only thing then is gettin a manifold or header to fit. Good luck, hopefully I will fire up my LQ9 this week

1BadAction

iTrader: (10)

Are either the bumpstops or the engine mounts welded to the frame from the factory?

jkade72

iTrader: (23)

They bolt to the frame and the engine crossmember... you will probably have to weld about a 4" piece of 3/16" or 1/4" plate to the back of the tower (mount stand) to give the motor mount a new home. Might be just as easy to fab a new mount and do away with the stock tower but I believe if you add a piece of plate to the back you can then use the swap a/c compressor and stock truck manifolds should work. The bump stops bolt in as well.

Wimimc

iTrader: (2)

very interesting as i want to get a K5 and do a 5.3L/4L60E swap in it.

def will be following, this will be my first engine swap.

1BadAction

iTrader: (10)

Made a little progress on the harness. Started to slightly re-route it, and added fan1/2 control, along with a wire at C1 Pin #71 so I can use a momentary to ground switch to control my TOW/Haul mode. I'll probably be ordering the fuse/relay box, Metripak plugs, and Delphi crimp tool sometime this next week.

WOOS1

iTrader: (1)

jkade72, what headers are you using? Did you have to do a lot of frame rail trimming?

jkade72

iTrader: (23)

They are Mac Mid's for a fbody.. had to do a little trimming not much though and they are close at the bottom to the rear spring hanger but they work and only paid $200 for them.

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iTrader: (10)

I've heard that some F-body LTs work also, but obviously drives the price of the swap higher. I have LS2 vette manis, non-egr truck manis, and would like to try F-body manifolds, but I might just go with a proven setup and use the truck units.

h22auto

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