Gears & Axles - Worst project ever

So I decided to take on the challenge of replacing my gears from 3.23 to 3.73 and rebuilding the rest of the differential. I was flying through this project from pressing off and on new bearings, pulling the pinion, everything I've heard everyone else struggle with. Then I came to the pinion races, which I believe are spawned from satan. I've reseated them over a hundred times, tried the freezer, tried gum remover and they refuse to cooperate. I'm fed up and dropped the housing and taking it to a pro on Thursday. I've done all my own work on my cars for the last 12 years, from header and head installs, some transmission work, everything the regular camaro lover would do, and I'm just very aggravated this is the only project I can't overcome. Anyone have any other ideas before I spend money and turn in my man card for the week?

The pinion races? You are trying to reinstall them? try applying some heat to the case? I personally don't touch them unless they have some kind of physical damage. Sorry you are having such a hard time. at least you are able to press your own stuff. When I did my 4.10s I had to go have my pinion bearing pressed off and this dude told me he would have to charge me an hour shop time because it would take him a while to make a pipe to press the bearing back on. I asked why he wouldn't just use the same die he used to take it off and all I got was a blank stare. IDIOT. Anyhow good luck.

I had this happen recently with some brake line work and double flares. Just gave up after many tries. I don't have any tips as I haven't had the experience replacing gears but it is upsetting when you have to throw in the towel and go to the pros.

Which part exactly are you having trouble with? I rented the race installer kit from autozone to seat them. Looks like aluminum discs in varying sizes. I also bought a big hammer - maybe 3-4lbs. I might have put a little grease on the outside of the race, I forget honestly.

I pulled the rear to do the work so I was sitting in a comfortable position. I could see how it could get tiring if you are on your back under the car.

yeah like the other guy said if the races are not bad
you could have left them alone.

I have the race installation tools, I tried lubricating it, I even tried after I pulled the rear out. The old ones looked good, I even tried reinstalling those. I just figured I had new ones, so why not install them. But leaving the old ones in would have saved me a lot of trouble. Thank god I don't need the car as a daily driver.

maybe it got nicked on the way out and the burr
is causing it to be a be-otch on the way back in.

either that or it's cocked and not going in perfectly
square.....either way I feel your pain.

lately I have been really hating on working on these
fbdy.....nothing is easy to get at and everything has to come out for even the stupidiest things.

Are the new races identical to the old races...?

Is the case nicked/burred...?

What massls1guy said would help, work on axle with it removed from car.

Beer helps (sometimes).

all ive ever done is to get the races started and then slowly walk them in using a star pattern, hitting them with a brass punch, if they get nicked they surely will be a p.i.t.a to get in. Like suggested earlier chec to see if they are infact the same size as the old ones with a caliper. Disagree with some of the other guys tho, even if not damaged the old races can wear to the old bearings and will cause noise or premature failure if not replaced with the new ones.

I have the race installation tools, I tried lubricating it, I even tried after I pulled the rear out. The old ones looked good, I even tried reinstalling those. I just figured I had new ones, so why not install them. But leaving the old ones in would have saved me a lot of trouble. Thank god I don't need the car as a daily driver.

If you have the install tools it really should be an easy job. You must have the races centered good & they go right in. I have installed these with the tool & a brass punch & they went in fairly easy. They did take longer with the brass punch though.

yeah like the other guy said if the races are not bad
you could have left them alone.

You should always replace the races with the bearings.


fbdy.....nothing is easy to get at and everything has to come out for even the stupidiest things.

I dont agree, Fbodys are not all that bad to work on.

Quote:
Originally Posted by 69TA
fbdy.....nothing is easy to get at and everything has to come out for even the stupidiest things.

I dont agree, Fbodys are not all that bad to work on.

Maybe because you have a lift
LOL, half the engine is under the f'ing cowl. Even with the hood off you still can't see of get to the back of the motor.

Most of the times I am thinking I am working on a van or something. I am not being a whiner here.....but shit sometimes I just wished these damm cars had a removable cowl or a tranny tunnel cover. I even considered getting one made.

Next time the easiest way to install the new races is to use the pinion. Just start the races then put the pinion in and tighten the nut until the races are seated. Then take a block of wood and tap on the pinion back and forth to be sure they are seated completely. Pull it the pinion back off and install the crush collar and preload it.

I get them started and make sure they are straight. Then I sit the old bearings in the race and use a socket that just fits the inside of the bearing. Put an extension in the socket and drive them in. I also use a peice of round brass or steel and drive them in a little at a time working my way around the edge of the race. The race is very hard and you can beat on the outer edge of it without messing it up. You can tell when they are all the way in because the hammer will bounce back at you and the sound changes. You will know....

Are you trying to do it in the car, its a lot easier to do it outside the car on jack stands.

I just had this problem recently. The remedy was to freeze them, then start them with a punch and go around the edges to make sure they're going in straight. If they're lined up its easy. if they are cocked, they will not go in i dont care what tool you use. Once i started them going in straight, i used the tool to drive them in the rest of the way and it was easy.

I think there just isnt enough room to line them up perfectly with the tool from the begininning.

Im a pro as you guys call it lol.I earn my living turing wrenches on cars and semi trucks and moonlite at a transmission shop that i worked @ for 6 years in the past.
I use the old races upside down,some thing flat(bigger than the race) and a bar or pipe what ever is handy at the time lol. You can put them in the freezer but they will go in fine out of the box.
Patients is also good lol. I seen my brother punch the fender on his 3rd gen after a mini starter kicked his ass that was funny.
O and you dont want too work it around with a punch cuz it will jack the race up. It pushes the steel out and will actully cuz lil bumps around the race,that will cause bearing noise and will eat the bearing up down the road.I know from experiance lol. I you have any ?s just ask

Quote:
Originally Posted by 69TA
fbdy.....nothing is easy to get at and everything has to come out for even the stupidiest things.

I dont agree, Fbodys are not all that bad to work on.

Maybe because you have a lift
I can use the lift at work & do but generally speaking theyre not that bad really. I changed my cyl heads at home in my garage, easier than it looks. The job you are doing is not much different than on a truck or older Caprice. Try working on a vette.

LOL, half the engine is under the f'ing cowl. Even with the hood off you still can't see of get to the back of the motor.
Not sure why youre suddenly trying to get to the back of the engine, when youre installing pinion races?

Most of the times I am thinking I am working on a van or something. I am not being a whiner here.....but shit sometimes I just wished these damm cars had a removable cowl or a tranny tunnel cover. I even considered getting one made.

I still cant figure out what it is that youre trying to get at back there between the cowl & engine.
It isnt the car, its the job you are trying to do. If it was on a hoist you still would have trouble.

But leaving the old ones in would have saved me a lot of trouble.


Don't ever use new bearing on an old race. It's like putting used flat tappet lifters on a new cam.

So to make this project even worse, I guess I was really drunk when I looked at the GU code on the panel and somehow managed to confuse a 2 and a 5. So had to buy a two series, if anyone wants to buy an unused 3 series 3.73 or a stock 2 series 2.73 pm me.

Im a pro as you guys call it lol.I earn my living turing wrenches on cars and semi trucks and moonlite at a transmission shop that i worked @ for 6 years in the past.
I use the old races upside down,some thing flat(bigger than the race) and a bar or pipe what ever is handy at the time lol. You can put them in the freezer but they will go in fine out of the box.
Patients is also good lol. I seen my brother punch the fender on his 3rd gen after a mini starter kicked his ass that was funny.
O and you dont want too work it around with a punch cuz it will jack the race up. It pushes the steel out and will actully cuz lil bumps around the race,that will cause bearing noise and will eat the bearing up down the road.I know from experiance lol. I you have any ?s just ask

A brass punch will not screw up the races. Thats what typically use when installing them. I recently rebuilt my rear, didn't need to chill or heat anything. Just set the race in the bore and tapped it in evenly with a brass punch and hammer. The brass is much softer than the hardened steel race, so it will not cause damage to the edge of the race or the bearing surface.

A brass punch will not screw up the races. Thats what typically use when installing them. I recently rebuilt my rear, didn't need to chill or heat anything. Just set the race in the bore and tapped it in evenly with a brass punch and hammer. The brass is much softer than the hardened steel race, so it will not cause damage to the edge of the race or the bearing surface.

Ya i know but your average fella usally dont have a brass punch laying around lol. But ya that will work too

Ya i know but your average fella usally dont have a brass punch laying around lol. But ya that will work too

Yea. Brass punch or race installer is the only way to go, using a steel punch will definitely damage the races!!

I use the old races upside down,some thing flat(bigger than the race) and a bar or pipe what ever is handy at the time lol.

This is what I found out works for me. I also tap the pinion forward and backwards with a block of wood to be sure they are seated.

I do my whole set up using a honed out pinion bearing for a slip fit, a nut with the locking crimps ground off, no crush collar, and no seal. When you find the right pinion shim the new bearing gets pressed on once, the new nut goes on once, the new crush collar goes on once, the new seal goes on once.
I can't imagine pressing the pinion bearing on and off just to change the shim.

DO NOT put a bearing in the race to drive it in, doing this can dimple the race and lead to failure which will be blamed on the 7.625 being a piece of shit.

One more thing, putting shit in the freezer does nothing. Thats what 0* F?
When a reputable shop says they freeze something and it slides right on they use liquid nitrogen. They put the bearing race in a hemp bag connected to the tank and freeze it down to −321 °F.

Don't ever use new bearing on an old race. It's like putting used flat tappet lifters on a new cam.

lol people use used lifters with new cams all the time.

lol people use used lifters with new cams all the time.

Yea roller lifters. You put used flat tappet lifters on a new cam there will be a failure.

This is what I found out works for me. I also tap the pinion forward and backwards with a block of wood to be sure they are seated.

I do my whole set up using a honed out pinion bearing for a slip fit, a nut with the locking crimps ground off, no crush collar, and no seal. When you find the right pinion shim the new bearing gets pressed on once, the new nut goes on once, the new crush collar goes on once, the new seal goes on once.
I can't imagine pressing the pinion bearing on and off just to change the shim.

DO NOT put a bearing in the race to drive it in, doing this can dimple the race and lead to failure which will be blamed on the 7.625 being a piece of shit.

LOL its not that bad pressing it in and off after you have done it alot

LOL its not that bad pressing it in and off after you have done it alot

It is a bitch to hone out a bearing, but it allows me to change shims without getting out from under the vehicle.

In fact you really don't need a press at all, just a piece of pipe and hammer.

And to those who think that sounds ghetto, theres a write up on here somewhere where the girl was using a GM tool that was basically an expensive piece of pipe called a bearing installer.
http://www.keliente.com/gears/installers.jpg
http://www.keliente.com/gears/meinstall.jpg

It is a bitch to hone out a bearing, but it allows me to change shims without getting out from under the vehicle.



I put my pinion gear on a lathe and polish it down until the bearing slids on and off. Never had a problem doing this. Only takes a few ten thousands to work.
Plus if you use the same gears on a rebuild, the new bearing slids on and off eay.

One more thing, putting shit in the freezer does nothing. Thats what 0* F?


Have you ever done it? Then :gtfo: I have done room temp and straight out of the freezer and the frozen one DID go in easier.


In fact you really don't need a press at all, just a piece of pipe and hammer.


So does your pipe and hammer get the old bearing off? So you DO still need a press.

It is a bitch to hone out a bearing, but it allows me to change shims without getting out from under the vehicle.

In fact you really don't need a press at all, just a piece of pipe and hammer.

And to those who think that sounds ghetto, theres a write up on here somewhere where the girl was using a GM tool that was basically an expensive piece of pipe called a bearing installer.
http://www.keliente.com/gears/installers.jpg
http://www.keliente.com/gears/meinstall.jpg

I know Kelly! That girl is fine we used to hook up back in the day.
So OP did yo fix it?

Haha thats been the best comment of this whole thread. Good job if thats true.