skopers3

iTrader: (3)

Hey guys,
So lately I’ve been thinking of getting a cam and was hoping to hear some opinions. I’ve been reading threads for weeks but would still like to hear what you guys have to say for my specific needs. My mods are in my sig, basically full bolt ons. The car is not a DD and only sees about 2,000 miles a year, but not a lot of track time, mostly just cruising on the street. I don’t want to sacrifice all the streetability, but being I don’t drive it often I want a decent amount of bang for my buck. Was thinking something in the 228 range?

Also, I’m a bolt on kind of guy. Up until now, I’ve done all the work on my car by myself, but I have no experience with internals and don’t want to risk screwing something up, so I’ll probably have a shop do it. A local performance shop that did my dynotune said a cam install and tune would run around $900. Does that sound about right? Also, is there anything else I’ll need to replace while I’m at it? I guess I don’t really know if I need to replace rods or anything else, I assume that would depend on the size of cam I get? IIRC, I’ve read to also replace the oil pump with an LS6 and the timing chain with an LS2. Is that correct?

And before someone posts to wait on the cam (which I’m sure they will, lol) I know I need driveline work done. I plan on keeping the 10 bolt until I save up more money and getting a 12 bolt with 373 and a stall all at once, but would like to start up front and work back. Plus, I don’t have THAT much money to play with and want to get something done over the winter, lol.

Any opinions would be greatly aprpeciated. Thanks!

PREDATOR-Z

228 range will be fine something in the 228/234 111+2 LSA, 9* overlap

GIVE EM' THE BIRD

iTrader: (1)

If it's not a DD why stay that small??? I'd say MS3 or a custom bring in that range(maybe a bit lower).

I've driven and ridden in some cammed cars that drove perfectly even though they had a cam that was considered a bit larger in them. The torquer 2 with a tune drives superbly btw. The car I drove this past weekend and may buy has a T2 in it and it is almost stock driving, and that's no joke. It sounds and runs great and is easy to DD...

Just a suggestion as there seems to be many guys who want bigger after their cam choices.

garygnu

go to TSP and look at the pump and timing chain,look at timing gaskets and crank bolts.look at their 228r cam pkg also..also consider a custom cam from Patrick-G.go to ls1howto.com and read through what is involved in a cam swap.$900 for a cam and tune don't sound too bad for a price.

skopers3

iTrader: (3)

I'd DEFINATLEY consider bigger. That the kind of advice I was looking for. I know I've heard a lot about the MS3... is that a pretty popular choice?

skopers3

iTrader: (3)

So my next question.. with the packages from Texas Spped, which of these two would I need to get? And within each one, which options would be preferable?
http://www.texas-speed.com/shop/cate...MID=1&catid=49

BIGSRTURBO

iTrader: (2)

MS3is a good cam alot of guys run it on DD....so it would be fine for just a weekend car.....mine is also a weekend car and i went the bigger cam with 4k stall and i love it...still drives and idles good...

GIVE EM' THE BIRD

iTrader: (1)

The PRC spring kit will pay for itself in time bc the other kit is only rated to .600 lift where the PRC's are .650.

I'd call TSP and talk to them and I'm sure they will steer u in the right direction

SOMbitch

iTrader: (8)

He hasn't given us a whole lot of information but maybe he would like some low end throttle response and power across the board

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

Biggest concern here is your overall combo and how it works together. First, you don't NEED a 12 bolt at cam/bolt on power levels. Autos don't break 10 bolts very often at all. But, autos themselves break. There are gonna be 2 major killers of your auto trans, heat and shifting rpm. Let someone talk you into an MS3, your torque numbers are lackluster and your power is high enough in the powerband that your 4l60e literally turns into a ticking time bomb. It is the most fragile piece in your drivetrain. So, if you are willing to keep your shift rpms conservative, then it should live a while. If you are looking at running much more then 62/6300 rpm you are gonna need a built tranny. No point in running a cam that makes power way up in the 6s when your running a stock tranny you know? So we need to match your cam to your powerband. What size stall are you looking at getting in the future? How big of a stall you run is gonna determine how much torque you can sacrifice on the bottom end with a bigger cam. You have 2.73s? Good idea to ditch those ASAP and run some 3.73s. Your car will feel much more peppy and getting into your powerband will be much easier. For my suggestions.......

Conservative:
TR224, 3200 stall, 3.42 gears

Mild:
TR228 or TR230, 3600 stall, 3.73 gears

Pretty nasty for a weekend cruiser:
RapTR, 4K stall, 3.73 or 4.10s

And as a sub for a Cam Motion grind for the previous 3 suggestions. Sub this for the first:

C33-769 LS Hydraulic Roller Camshaft; 224'/228', .578"/.578", 113'+4'; 1,900 to 5,900 RPM

Sub this for the second:

C33-790 LS Hydraulic Roller Camshaft; 228'/232', .612"/.612", 113'+4'; 2,200 to 6,200 RPM

Sub this for the 3rd:

C33-771 LS Hydraulic Roller Camshaft; 236'/240', .612"/.612", 114'+4'; 2,800 to 6,800 RPM

Hope this helps.

GIVE EM' THE BIRD

iTrader: (1)

Well depending on the LSA that can be had with a cam that's a bit larger.

I'm not saying you aren't right, but I was just saying, if it were me I'd go a bit less conservative if possible since it's a "fun" car not a DD.

TXZ28LS1

iTrader: (5)

i will honestly tell you no matter what cam you go with it is all in the tune. I have never ridden or driven a cammed car and i have a 230/227 cam that drives so much like stock. My car isnt a drag car, and is pretty much just a weekend cruiser only driven once a week. I can honestly say, i wish i would have went with a bigger cam. i wish i would have gone with a 233/239 cam from TSP.

camz28arro

iTrader: (12)

230/234 .600/.602 112+4 EPS cam would be a good choice and wouldn't need to be revved to 6800+ rpm like the ms3 since you have 2000 rod bolts. Should also make nearly the same power but with more bottom end and be more street friendly but still sound nasty.

skopers3

iTrader: (3)

Thanks for the suggestions guys. So with an MS3 Would I see a lot of low end power loss?

HAZ-Matt

iTrader: (8)

Some of this stuff is out there.

Not that I am trying to pick on any person but just an example from above that is the closest...

230/234 .600/.602 112+4 EPS

Now why in the world would you want that much intake duration to rev to the low 6000's? If you look at an off the shelf grind that has become somewhat popular from them it would be the 222/226 .597/.598 113LSA... it has a "1500 to 6800 RPM Operating Range." The power peak is going to be low 6000's with that cam. I know you tightened LSA and advanced 4 degrees but where is the peak going to end up? DCR isn't going to be pretty with stock heads and bottom end, and the overlap is going to sacrifice some ease of tunability and streetability. Potentially you can install a cam that peaks over 6500RPM in a can and only rev it to 6200RPM but why? You traded power/torque in the range you actually drive the car for imaginary power that is above your rev range.

To answer the above question by the OP about power loss, the short answer is yes. Will you miss it? I don't know. Everyone is quick to recommend cams that drive like stock, but how many of these are idling at 550RPM with stock stall? None... so really none drive like stock. Even the LS6 cam doesn't exactly drive like stock, although it is the closest to it... but it also does not make as much power. There is no free lunch and you will have to make some sort of compromise. The smartest thing you can do is come up with the rev range you want, which means what RPM you shift at and where you would like torque and power peak, then figure out what the rest of the combo is going to be like. The cam should really be the last thing spec'd after you know what else it is working with (excepting springs and perhaps tweaks to static compression...). You also said this car lives mostly on the street so you will want to keep mid range power decent, and dynamic compression decent... As long as I am speaking in generalizations a 228 wouldn't be terrible. I like the suggestion of the TR224 or Cam Motion 224/228 (might not install that with the 4* advance though).