My 67 Camaro Build/Photos
12-08-2010, 12:34 AM
#1
My 67 Camaro Build/ NEW PHOTOS!-POST#170 12/30/12! UPDATE VIDEO!..She starts after 8 years of the project. It happened on 1/4/11. We're running rich through open headers, and need a tune.
I later realized that the driver's coil harness had been reversed. After turning it around, the LS1 ran 'like a top'!
Thanks to my wife for video editing.
Our Camaro is almost there.
The idea for this project was furthered in 2003 when my co-worker Ed handed me this...
Notice the illustration on the package. It looks more like a Celica, or maybe a 350Z, from which, ironically, came the idea for the paint.
The plan was to start with a car which would become completely remodeled. You could purchase one 25-30k, but it would have been someone else's idea. Following this line of thinking, numbers matching was not important.
Start with a 67RS car with plenty 'o' rust.
This is a 327/4sp Muncie, manufactured in 9/67 & bought in 12/67. It came from the factory in white, and had a 2.73 non-posi 10 bolt. The latest owner added Holley Commander fuel injection, power brakes & steering, & Hookers. When I bought it in '06, it came with a 350. Other than the RS, originally there were no options. It had manual/drum brakes, & steering.
The LS1 arrived on a pallet with the A4, but after driving the 350/4 speed for awhile, I was hooked on the manual. The A4 was then sold.
Spring 2008, I removed driveline and innards. The car is picked up for bodywork. I've built a garage and done other projects, but without the tools & experience, metalwork is out of my skill range.
The restoral wasn't a 100% job, however, the frame and body were given a complete going over. The rear fenders, floor & trunk pans were replaced, and there was a large rust area just above the driver's side windshield.
Epoxy primer came next
Then primered
Setup for painting with bumblebee
We decided to spray in Nissan Daytona Blue Met Pearl. Under indirect light, this paint appears quite purple. I'm not big on the purple hue, so we had a sprayout done with half the norm amount of red. This was more to our liking. The bumblebee was sprayed in Toyota White Met Pearl. It came out very nice, we think.
As a comparison, just below the newly painted car is the 'normal' version of the paint as seen at night on a 350Z. The altered version on the Camaro has just as much depth, but with a lighter tone.
The engine is a 98 LS1 with 31k which arrived on a palette in winter of '03. Several of the valves were rusty/pitted and needed replacing. I reworked it per the following...TR224/561, LS6 int & valley, port/polish TB, Yellas, CAI, March, JWIS. The heads were home-ported, chambers smoothed to a mirror finish. A valvejob was done.
My brothers made this project a family affair and helped to get the driveline installed.
Even though the engine and tranny went in in one fell swoop with the front clip on, hardly a scratch did we inflict!!
There was alot of flash within the runners & chambers....just as much as you see below next to the intake runners. All of it was removed. The areas behind the valves were opened up, as well.
"Original" style Yella roller rockers with the wide shoulders were ordered for the 98 LS1 with perimeter style valvecovers. Shortly after receiving them, I saw the photo below, which told me that without grinding the valvecovers, the Yellas would not fit. Any ad or endorsement had specifically said, "FITS 1998-2002 LS1". Shortly thereafter, Yella came out with a 'new' slimmer version that not only fit, but had less mass. Happy endings!
A Keisler Tremec 5 sp .063 OD will back up the power.
The Moser 9in w/ TrueTrac 3.70 & Ford Explorer disc brakes.
Quiet Ride was installed in the trunk & cabin.
The Quiet Ride was later removed from the cabin, because it is lightweight, and did nothing to contain a heavy-duty vibration of the metal in the floorpan.
Eastwood butyl style sound damping material replaced the QR. The heavy adhesive on its' bottom served to eliminate the vibration.
Classic Industries offers Chevy-type engine displacement numbers bordered in chrome.
The valvecovers and TB pieces have been polished to a mirror shine.
ECM in glovebox. John @ SPEARTECH reworked the harness which left enough cable for this mount. VATS gen mounted on top.
From the dollar store and with a bracket 'appropriated' from my wife's bicycle, we have the radiator overflow container.
Engine bay almost complete! CAI from Speed Inc.
Be-Cool w/stock fans, riveted together w/aluminum channel.
This project is dedicated to my family, who supported me throughout, in many ways...and to my friend, Kevin.
I later realized that the driver's coil harness had been reversed. After turning it around, the LS1 ran 'like a top'!
Thanks to my wife for video editing.
Our Camaro is almost there.
The idea for this project was furthered in 2003 when my co-worker Ed handed me this...
Notice the illustration on the package. It looks more like a Celica, or maybe a 350Z, from which, ironically, came the idea for the paint.
The plan was to start with a car which would become completely remodeled. You could purchase one 25-30k, but it would have been someone else's idea. Following this line of thinking, numbers matching was not important.
Start with a 67RS car with plenty 'o' rust.
This is a 327/4sp Muncie, manufactured in 9/67 & bought in 12/67. It came from the factory in white, and had a 2.73 non-posi 10 bolt. The latest owner added Holley Commander fuel injection, power brakes & steering, & Hookers. When I bought it in '06, it came with a 350. Other than the RS, originally there were no options. It had manual/drum brakes, & steering.
The LS1 arrived on a pallet with the A4, but after driving the 350/4 speed for awhile, I was hooked on the manual. The A4 was then sold.
Spring 2008, I removed driveline and innards. The car is picked up for bodywork. I've built a garage and done other projects, but without the tools & experience, metalwork is out of my skill range.
The restoral wasn't a 100% job, however, the frame and body were given a complete going over. The rear fenders, floor & trunk pans were replaced, and there was a large rust area just above the driver's side windshield.
Epoxy primer came next
Then primered
Setup for painting with bumblebee
We decided to spray in Nissan Daytona Blue Met Pearl. Under indirect light, this paint appears quite purple. I'm not big on the purple hue, so we had a sprayout done with half the norm amount of red. This was more to our liking. The bumblebee was sprayed in Toyota White Met Pearl. It came out very nice, we think.
As a comparison, just below the newly painted car is the 'normal' version of the paint as seen at night on a 350Z. The altered version on the Camaro has just as much depth, but with a lighter tone.
The engine is a 98 LS1 with 31k which arrived on a palette in winter of '03. Several of the valves were rusty/pitted and needed replacing. I reworked it per the following...TR224/561, LS6 int & valley, port/polish TB, Yellas, CAI, March, JWIS. The heads were home-ported, chambers smoothed to a mirror finish. A valvejob was done.
My brothers made this project a family affair and helped to get the driveline installed.
Even though the engine and tranny went in in one fell swoop with the front clip on, hardly a scratch did we inflict!!
There was alot of flash within the runners & chambers....just as much as you see below next to the intake runners. All of it was removed. The areas behind the valves were opened up, as well.
"Original" style Yella roller rockers with the wide shoulders were ordered for the 98 LS1 with perimeter style valvecovers. Shortly after receiving them, I saw the photo below, which told me that without grinding the valvecovers, the Yellas would not fit. Any ad or endorsement had specifically said, "FITS 1998-2002 LS1". Shortly thereafter, Yella came out with a 'new' slimmer version that not only fit, but had less mass. Happy endings!
A Keisler Tremec 5 sp .063 OD will back up the power.
The Moser 9in w/ TrueTrac 3.70 & Ford Explorer disc brakes.
Quiet Ride was installed in the trunk & cabin.
The Quiet Ride was later removed from the cabin, because it is lightweight, and did nothing to contain a heavy-duty vibration of the metal in the floorpan.
Eastwood butyl style sound damping material replaced the QR. The heavy adhesive on its' bottom served to eliminate the vibration.
Classic Industries offers Chevy-type engine displacement numbers bordered in chrome.
The valvecovers and TB pieces have been polished to a mirror shine.
ECM in glovebox. John @ SPEARTECH reworked the harness which left enough cable for this mount. VATS gen mounted on top.
From the dollar store and with a bracket 'appropriated' from my wife's bicycle, we have the radiator overflow container.
Engine bay almost complete! CAI from Speed Inc.
Be-Cool w/stock fans, riveted together w/aluminum channel.
This project is dedicated to my family, who supported me throughout, in many ways...and to my friend, Kevin.
Last edited by gMAG; 01-14-2018 at 10:26 PM.
12-08-2010, 08:59 AM
#4
Steve, I'm not sure which part of the build your question is directed to.
At this moment, I'm trying to figure out why it won't start. There's a thread to this effect somewhere below.
The mods are listed just below in sig. I'm waiting on a set of TA's, and the exhaust still needs to be mounted. Also, there is a set of 67 "disc brake" style hubcaps waiting.
At this moment, I'm trying to figure out why it won't start. There's a thread to this effect somewhere below.
The mods are listed just below in sig. I'm waiting on a set of TA's, and the exhaust still needs to be mounted. Also, there is a set of 67 "disc brake" style hubcaps waiting.
12-08-2010, 10:28 AM
#6
...maybe 400.I wish I had a set of those Dart heads which are on your engine, Steve! The exhaust ports look very large compared to the stock ones on mine. Getting a set of Darts would be ideal. That will be somewhere down the road.
The suspension will remain stock, although the springs are 'lowering' and there are poly bushings. The alledged 'lowering' springs are not that at all.
My car is much higher than the old worn-out suspension. The rear mono-leafs were so worn, that they had an inverted bend to them. All of this still needs to be tweaked.
The brakes up front had previously been updated (not even sure what they are), and the rears are new Explorer discs which I got a great deal on.
In the future, a turbo might be happening/I have a set of 42lb ers in reserve...got to plant the seed with my Honey!
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01-06-2011, 12:06 AM
#12
Tuesday, after receiving some replacement injectors, then having them all flow-matched, the engine started for the first time since 2000, or so.
Even though the ECM is relearning, the engine still runs a bit rough, maybe bec of the TR cam. When the car goes back for final prep, it'll be put on a DynoJet for a tune.
There's a leak at the high press hose as the fitting meets the steering box and the cooling system is stubborn-still has some trapped air I think because the thermostat won't open.
Even though the ECM is relearning, the engine still runs a bit rough, maybe bec of the TR cam. When the car goes back for final prep, it'll be put on a DynoJet for a tune.
There's a leak at the high press hose as the fitting meets the steering box and the cooling system is stubborn-still has some trapped air I think because the thermostat won't open.
Last edited by gMAG; 08-28-2012 at 10:54 PM.
01-06-2011, 06:28 PM
#16
A 2 hour foray @ PepBoys led me to these...upper (E)71911 & lower (D)71426CS.
No matter which of the two upper hoses were used, there was a little bending involved to make them fit, and I thought that the hose might suck closed at the bends. Another trip to Advance Auto for a hose containing a long spring. You can buy the cheapest one...the idea being that the spring is removed from THAT hose, then cut in two sections, then each section of spring worked into each bend in your new upper hose. This worked well.
01-07-2011, 08:12 AM
#18
thanks. I installed a steam port hose from the driver's head to the top of the waterpump. It might be easy for me to pinch the hose with a clamp, then remove it at the waterpump and then wait for air to be displaced. Could be a little less messy than the rad hose.
