chemicool

Hi guys,

I am buying a car that will need a rebuild,; at least partially. So I decided that while I have it out I wanted to do a 383 stroker forged kit and a FAST 90 setup. Here is what the car has now:

2000 LS1 bottom end rebuilt in 2008
Included honing, new stock pistons, main and cam bearings and freeze plugs.
Texas speed PRC Stg 2.5 5.3 heads modified for an MS3 cam.
233/239 cam with 112LSA installed dot to dot.
TSP Ported LS6 oil pump and LS2 timing chain
LS7 Lifters
JTR headers 3inch Y pipe into a 3 inch Fujitsubo Legalis exhaust.
Compcams hardened 7.400 pushrods
ARP rod bolts
LS6 intake manifold
42 lb injectors
Walbro 255 fuel pump with Corvette FPR
Stock rockers
New waterpump 3000 miles ago
Improved racing windage tray
GM head bolts
t-56 6 speed

The car was lean and burnt some valves I think. It will be a NA daily driver.

I want to do it relatively cheap so looking to keep as much of what is there as I can.

What kind of power to expect? Any suggestions? Places to go for good prices on stroker kits? Also, what kind of machining will be needed?

Thanks

09camaro383

iTrader: (2)

Probably the valves were burnt because it was ruining to rich!! you want to keep it as cheap as possible and I see you have good stuff so I will used Texas speed PRC Stg 2.5 5.3 heads, MS3 cam, TSP Ported LS6 oil pump and LS2 timing chain, LS7 Lifters, 42 lb injectors, Walbro 255 fuel pump and the exhaust system that you have the cheapest stroker kit I seen is from texas speed and the rods will come with arp bolt but I will also get arp main studs and arp head bolts some multi layer head gaskets and the 90/90 set up I think you will be in the 450rwhp

AAK z28

iTrader: (18)

If your going to spend the money to build a 383 you should just do a 402 or 408 and pick up a cheap 6.0 block the stroker kits from Texas-Speed are pretty good and the 383, 402, and 408 kits are all $1700

chemicool

I was thinking about going bigger but then I think I will need different heads too. I don't think the 5.3 heads will flow enough for that much displacement?

AAK z28

iTrader: (18)

Ya but you don't have stock heads, those 2.5s flow pretty good. It would still be a strong runner if you went bigger, but you would make more power with bigger heads. You could always use those heads until you decided to get new ones or sell those and buy new ones.

ls1excitement

iTrader: (1)

For $1700 you can get it shipped to your door with barring and balanced from dyno-flow out of vegas, And how much more HP do you think you can make from a 383 to a iron 402 just to make up that 75lbs over the nose you'll need 80 or so ponies so IMO you will be going backwards with a iron block.

AAK z28

iTrader: (18)

Use an aluminum 6.0 ls2 block and build a 404 stroker then.

Jason 98 TA

iTrader: (4)

Give us a call to discuss options. I agree that a iron block 408 might be a great option! The 383 can will be a little cheaper if your keeping your block, but without a doubt the 408 is a great option if you need a new block.

We have the PRC heads on special right now so it's the perfect time to make something happen on the heads/cam. Both of them are on big special right now!!

chemicool

Thanks for the replies. I don't want to use an iron block at all. To be honest the car will probably make plenty of HP with the 383. I was curious if anyone had a similar setup. The car will weigh a little less than 3000lbs with me in it so it should haul A$$. My main concern is machining I guess. Will any be needed for clearance with the 383 kit?

chemicool

OK back to my discussion

I was wanting to have a pretty good CR (11:1) and a good redline (6.9-7K) to get the most out of my engine.

Two questions:
1) Can a stroker be run at that high an rpm safely?

2) Is that CRatio too high for pump gas?

Give my current engine mods above and maybe a few new ones, would my best bet be to go with a forged 383 stroker or go for a higher rpm forged stock cube?

The less money the better. My goal is 450rwhp through a t-56 in a daily driver, sometimes track car.

LS1C5Vette

iTrader: (11)

1) I wouldnt
2) No

If you are keeping the 233/239 it will fall of at 6300, even with a ported fast 90

little_chewy_69

iTrader: (2)

if i could do it again i would have just made a 402 instead of a 383 the 4.00 bore makes a sizable difference unless you are serious about tracks time i would go with a cast 6.0 over the 5.7 there are not a lot of 3.900's N/A pumping out 500rwhp makes it a lot easier to cross that mark with the 4.00 bore and to be honest... i wish i had just bought the tsp short block cuz my build is going to surpass the cost of a shortblock before it's all said and done.....And i would have a 402

msydow

look at my sig. i turn my 7k all the time. good tune is key. the ms3 wont make power to 7k. when i had my ms4 in my stock cu in motor it made power to 7200, but with the larger motor it peaked about 6700. anyway the drive-ability is much better with more cubes. shoot me a pm or give texas-speed a call.

msydow

also you need measure your pushrods not just order 7.400's

slowride

iTrader: (3)

Callies lsc crank, scat i beams and Mahle pistons would make a nice cheap setup. We are probably going to build one for a friend in the next few months. Minimum machining would be a torque plate hone and getting all the bearing clearances right. Little things like getting the quench tight and making sure the valvetrain is all setup right will make your current parts shine. If you use your old cam I'd expect ~20 rwhp and ~40rwtq over what it has now permitted everything was running right before. Check with the WS6 store guys for pricing.

ucanthangwme

iTrader: (12)

Honestly, I would spend a little time and look on this board at some blocks for sale. You can come out cheaper picking up a block that is already done. I saw it as either spend big money doing it myself(or from a builder), or sift through listings and find what I thought was the best deal. Yeah, there is always the question of who did what with their block, but that is where you spend the time to check it out.

...just an option.