SS4Luck

iTrader: (10)

I know this is pry in the wrong section, but i figure its to pull the came and possibly the rotating assembly so i might as well.


Is there an easy way to pull the motor and how do i do it? I dont mind taking most/all of the front end apart to get the motor out. I never have in my car and just would like to know step by step whats involved

evo462

iTrader: (27)

this

https://ls1tech.com/forums/generatio...ne-bottom.html

and this

http://www.michiganspeed.com/enginepull/index.html

are what I am using...in the process of removing it now. Relatively easy so far, just taking my time so its done right.

Dirty Vegas

iTrader: (12)

Invest in a tractor.

1lejohn

iTrader: (9)

If your doing it from home pull it from the top. Just remove the nose cone, radiator etc, and undo the hood struts and prop open the hood. This should give you enough clearence to pull it out. The hardest part about putting it back in is aliging the block to the motor mount pedestals. I'm thinking of bolting them to the block and setting it in with them on it next time. Then just aliging the bolt holes on them to the k-memb. I've pulled three of them from the top with just my teenage son to help.

SS4Luck

iTrader: (10)

awesome thats what i was thinking. The front of my car is GUTTED anyway so about 12 bolts and everything comes off. I think imma give it a try taht way cuz i was going to anyway lol.

Rookie questions. Pulling it this way do i pull the trans too? Cuz there is nothing on the trans that will support everything right?

ZexGX

iTrader: (28)

I removed the top end on mine first, then rigged up an engine hoist and a chain wrapped around the frame rails with three large grade 8 nuts/bolts to secure the chain. Placed two old rims/tires underneath the rear tires on the car to bring the rear end higher. With the top end removed, the K+shortblock+trans was light enough to easily roll around on 3 lightly modified Home Depot 1000lb dollies. One dolly under the transmission crossmember, one per lower A arm. If the top end is still attached you'll want to keep a floor jack or another dolly underneath the center of the K- member for stability. Be careful of anything (tool or car) snagging when lifting. Used two 6 Ton jack stands [because they are tall] (~$45) to keep the car at the correct height to remove engine hoist.

Let me know when you plan to do it. I may drop by to help out if you cover gas/food.

slowblackbird

iTrader: (1)

i think it is much easier pulling it all out of the bottom and you can do it easy with a cherry picker.i would put a dolly under the k member before you start pulling the body up this will keep the upper shock mounts out a little and be easier to move the motor around. also with dropping out the bottom you can leave the headers, all accessorys and wiring still on the motor. i have done 3 this way on my carport lol

ZexGX

iTrader: (28)

Oh and one thing I haven't seen mentioned is the GM technique of keeping the upper strut mounts in place and only removing the castle nut on the upper a-arm and the two lower strut bolts, then when it's time to reinstall you just line up the lower a-arms with the shock and the upper a-arm with the spindle, rather than having to wrestle both strut assemblies away from the engine when lowering the car down (since they naturally seem to want to go inward towards the engine, when attached to the lower A-arms instead of the upper mount on the body).