AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

So not sure what I should do here, I bought a motor that was brand new and only run on a engine dyno. The shop drained out the water gave it to the customer and then the motor was placed in a garage for the last yr or so and had never been installed. Heads were on it but no intake. Now the problem is some how the oil pan got filled with water during the time it sat in the garage and froze solid. I melted it all down and there is 0 rust anywhere, it spins super easy the freeze plugs are all still in place and there was no ice in coolant passages. Right now its soaking in WD40 What do you all think I should do with it. The motor is a 383 LT1 eagle forged crank, h-beams, SRPs, ARP hardware all around. After thawing it out.

06 SS

disassemble, clean, lubricate, reassemble. You get moisture trapped in a bearing or someplace nasty and you might be real unhappy.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

You have any ideas how the water got there??

How much was it? Just some chips or was it like a few cups worth???

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

No the entire pan was full & frozen solid. We have no idea how it got there and it was way to much to have been water left in the block from the engine dyno. The guy I bought it from had it built picked it up then just sat it in his engine bay and went off to college. My guess is his mom or dad had hosed it down thinking they were doing him a favor by keeping it clean or they had pushed the car outside and left it in the rain without the intake.
Not really sure.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

there was no intake on the engine so I dont think the pressure could have ruined anything.

Black94Z28

iTrader: (12)

I bought a low milage 305 for my 91 V6/T5 Camaro (doing a V8 swap and before anyone questions the 305, its just a cruiser car so Im just doing this to have a V8 sound and a little power)

Turns out the engine sat for awhile, ran perfect when pulled, was always maintained, so I was kinda shocked when I drained whatever was left and water poured out. Im not sure and neither is the owner where it came from. I tore the engine down, pulled the pistons and crank out and everything is ok. So who knows. No rust or anything on the bearings, I did a quick hone just since it was apart and Im reassembling (throwing a cam in too, while its apart right?) and calling it a day.

badass383formula96

my forged 383 had water in it when i got it due to the valve covers being left off in florida weather for a year. I changed the bearings and oil pump wd40d and had re assembled.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Im going to take it all apart tonight, prob end up ordering new -5cc pistons for higher compression then bring it to the shop to check out the block, crank, and rods have them put new bearings and balance it.
If anyone needs some forged SRPs 16cc dished pistons let me know. I also have a custom comp cam 230/242 .541-.550 115 might have a couple other things also.

95mysticta

iTrader: (4)

To be completly honest you have you no idea who built or if it was put together properly and your just taking someones word about it. Been there done that and i had this funny feeling i should take it apart to be sure before i put in the car. Turned out it was slopped together and clearances were all off and the machine work was crap. If its not rusted inside i would just do a light hone and re-ring and re-bearing it and put her back together just for your own reassurance and piece of mind.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

I know exactly who built it and have the full build sheet in my hand. lol But Im changing pistons anyways so its going to AES to get it checked, new bearings and balanced.

speedracer2536

iTrader: (15)

what is the bore size on those pistons.. i may be interested..

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

4.030 basicaly brand new

flyinZ

iTrader: (15)

Thats what I would do. In a hobby like this, it doesn't hurt to double check, something SO important as this.

Its also a similar short block, to what I have.

zigroid

iTrader: (22)

listen to this guy.

I had basically the exact same bottom end. right down to the SRP -16cc dish pistons and 2 bolt mains. it was topped with LE3 heads/cam/ported intake.

I never checked anything, just slapped it together and went on my merry way. 3500 miles later after leaking/using oil like crazy it spun the #6 rod bearing, the piston slammed in to the head, and it busted two of the main caps in half.

lesson learned.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Tore it all down last night every thing looks mint besides having some oil/water slime in there. Even the bearings look good to go. Now just need the new pistons and its off to the shop. Now Im thinking I might as well use the 4bolt block.

96capricemgr

iTrader: (1)

So now you are talking about replacing the block too??

So you bought a used crank and rods basically?

Once you get older you might realize it is cheaper to do things right once than to keep going like you are.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

lol Im 33 yrs old & I paid 350 bucks for the block, crank rods, pistons, cam, opti, double roller timing set, SFI spec balancer, oil pump, and all ARP hardware. Every thing is brand new it was just run on a engine dyno.
I can reuse the block and might, just debating if its worth using the 4bolt I had bought b4 this deal came along.

noice

Wow -16cc dish? I thought my -13cc dish pistons were bad. I've been trying to sell them for a few months and people aren't very interested in them. Why do you want to run a 4 bolt main? You're just running it quarter mile drag racing right? You got quality main studs there, you don't have to go 4 bolt main. Also I don't trust anyone's "rebuilt" engine. I've tore down quite a few engines that were built by people that didn't know much or didn't care. The only time I will slap an engine into a car without tearing it down is if I can see that it is a stock engine.

zigroid

iTrader: (22)

DEFINITELY go with a 4 bolt main block. I made a huge mistake twice going 2 bolt mains.
I was going to say listen to this guy (and I would still say that) until I read...
holy ***** thats a great deal. I paid $2500 for the same rotating assembly, 2 bolt block, CC306 cam, stock timing set, front cover, opti, balancer, stock oil pump, ARP rod bolts only, and it had supposedly 10k miles on it but looked like 100k. granted I bought mine 6 years ago but still... you, sir, got a hell of a deal.

youre doing a smart thing swapping the pistons. I wanted to do exactly what you are doing going with -5cc SRP pistons. the -16cc pistons gave me a little less than 10.5:1 compression and the engine only had about 150 psi cranking cyl pressure. the damn thing never ran right and it didnt have that "crispness" when you revved it. sounded like an old smogger 350 with a big cam.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

-16 is a good all around pump gas piston and can get you about 11.1 CR. Mine are actually sold just waiting on the payment.

THIS WAS A PROFESSIONALLY BUILT ENGINE. IT was done by Borowski Racing Enterprises the motor was completely balanced and blue printed.
piston to wall clearance
bore diameter 4.030
piston diameter 4.027
clearance .003 on all 8 cylinders

Piston to head clearance
head gasket thickness .039
piston deck height .018
total clearance .057

piston to valve clearance( no gasket)
intake .220
exhaust .227

main bearing clearance
bearing part ms-909hx
journal # clearance
1. 3.3
2.3.0
3. 3.1
4. 3.0
5. 3.3
trust clearance .003
fastener tq 70ft#s

Piston rings
perfect circle
ring part# 315-0036-035
top ring gap .020 all 8
2nd ring gap .024 all 8

Connecting rods
bearing part 8-7100ch
clearance 8.2 all 8
crankshaft stroke 3.750
rod bolt tq 63ft#s
wrist pin .001
rod numbers
1+2 .018 3+4 .020 5+6 .022 7+8 .022