OK To Use Type F Trans Fluid?
#2
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Some say it's OK. I had a bad experience with it in
a TCI converter and my torque converter clutch is
still not over it. I think if you have an "exotic" TCC
material (like the carbon type in my TCI) you had
best check with the manufacturer. TCI didn't
recommend it but I let the mechanic put it in
anyway since I had heard good things about it...
sucked big time with bad TCC squeal and a bunch
of shiny silt in my pan.
This was B&M "Trick Shift", which is Type F with
blue coloring and special sauce. Ptui!
a TCI converter and my torque converter clutch is
still not over it. I think if you have an "exotic" TCC
material (like the carbon type in my TCI) you had
best check with the manufacturer. TCI didn't
recommend it but I let the mechanic put it in
anyway since I had heard good things about it...
sucked big time with bad TCC squeal and a bunch
of shiny silt in my pan.
This was B&M "Trick Shift", which is Type F with
blue coloring and special sauce. Ptui!
#3
I can speak from what I use now, which is the Redline Racing ATF, which is their Type-F equivalent, and it works great.
I had experienced some problems after my first rebuild with some slippage using just the Dexron III comptible Redline (D4 ATF), and my tranny builder had some trannies come back after failures with Redline fluid. During my second rebuild (unrelated to the fluid), I got to talking with my tranny builder, and the engineer at Redline.
The Redline has a higher film strength than regular fluid, and it also has all the friction modifiers (to make it more slippery) that are called for by the Dexron III standard.
I started wondering if the combination of the film strength, friction modifiers, and my shift kit could have been enough to keep the band from locking up at higher speeds, which is where the slippage was occuring.
So, I asked the Redline engineer about the Racing ATF, and he told me that it's basically a Type-F, but better. He said that it actually has better lubricating properties than the D4 ATF, and it has a higher viscosity, but other than those two things, and the lack of friction modifiers, it was identical to the D4 ATF.
His only possible concern was torque converter clutch chatter, which is what I think jimmyblue was getting, but he wasn't positive, because they had never checked it out in a 4L60e.
Anyhow, I'm now using the Racing ATF, and I throw in a couple of quarts of the D4 to thin it out a tad (the Racing ATF is noticeably thicker when it's cold), and add a bit of frcition modifiers, to stave off any chatter, which I've had none of.
The tranny works like a champ now, and it locks right up with no problems. So, that's my $.02 worth.
Oh yeah, and if you have a shift kit, then I would recommend this type of fluid, but if you don't have one, or if you still have the PWM torque converter clutch apply (if you didn't get it converted to on/off lock up, and that could also be why jimmyblue had problems), then I'd say to stay away from it. The Dexron III has the friction modifiers in it to allow the slipping of the clutches and the band, which is programmed in from the factory.
I had experienced some problems after my first rebuild with some slippage using just the Dexron III comptible Redline (D4 ATF), and my tranny builder had some trannies come back after failures with Redline fluid. During my second rebuild (unrelated to the fluid), I got to talking with my tranny builder, and the engineer at Redline.
The Redline has a higher film strength than regular fluid, and it also has all the friction modifiers (to make it more slippery) that are called for by the Dexron III standard.
I started wondering if the combination of the film strength, friction modifiers, and my shift kit could have been enough to keep the band from locking up at higher speeds, which is where the slippage was occuring.
So, I asked the Redline engineer about the Racing ATF, and he told me that it's basically a Type-F, but better. He said that it actually has better lubricating properties than the D4 ATF, and it has a higher viscosity, but other than those two things, and the lack of friction modifiers, it was identical to the D4 ATF.
His only possible concern was torque converter clutch chatter, which is what I think jimmyblue was getting, but he wasn't positive, because they had never checked it out in a 4L60e.
Anyhow, I'm now using the Racing ATF, and I throw in a couple of quarts of the D4 to thin it out a tad (the Racing ATF is noticeably thicker when it's cold), and add a bit of frcition modifiers, to stave off any chatter, which I've had none of.
The tranny works like a champ now, and it locks right up with no problems. So, that's my $.02 worth.
Oh yeah, and if you have a shift kit, then I would recommend this type of fluid, but if you don't have one, or if you still have the PWM torque converter clutch apply (if you didn't get it converted to on/off lock up, and that could also be why jimmyblue had problems), then I'd say to stay away from it. The Dexron III has the friction modifiers in it to allow the slipping of the clutches and the band, which is programmed in from the factory.
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Originally Posted by Pro Stock John
Mike from Yank said that pure type F is hard on the internal parts of a 4L60E and he would probably run half that and half regular stuff.
#6
I'm talking about Redline, which is synthetic (for anybody that didn't know). The synthetic fluids react a lot differently than the dyno-oil based stuff.
So, regular Dexron III may not be prone to allowing slippage in a tranny with a shift kit, whereas a synthetic Dexron III would allow it. The synthetics are designed to provide better wear protection, hence the stronger film strength, but that, in combination with the friction modifiers, may cause them to not work well with a shift kit.
So, regular Dexron III may not be prone to allowing slippage in a tranny with a shift kit, whereas a synthetic Dexron III would allow it. The synthetics are designed to provide better wear protection, hence the stronger film strength, but that, in combination with the friction modifiers, may cause them to not work well with a shift kit.
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mind me butting in, but what "exactly" is the right fluid i should stock up on? My mechanic did the whole install but it would be safe to say to keep some in the car in case of a leak or whatever. Should i just ask the mechanic what he used (GM product) or can i buy it from pep boys. I dont wanna fud my tranny if i ever need to top her off or deal with a leak. I kinda like keeping a little spare oil/trans fluid/etc around in case of road trips/etc.