slikrider20

iTrader: (9)

Well i'm about 99% i need a new clutch. Car is a 98 Z28 with 130k miles. Not sure if it's the stock clutch or not. Rev's up in any gear when i push the gas down, won't grab worth a ****.

The car is 98% stock and probably will stay this way. What do you guys recommend i do for the cheapest possible solution? Like i said, this car is stock and is my daily. I'm on a tight budget and need to do what's cheapest.

This is about the cheapest i've found so far. Does it include everything i would need to install? I'm a complete noob when it comes to anything in the drivetrain.

http://www.ws6project.com/user_stor/...roducts_id=156

Someone point me in the right direction. Thanks

southernculture

iTrader: (1)

Look around and find someone that upgraded and get their old one would be the cheapest. Are you planning on installing yourself? Look in the vehicle part outs you should be able find one for cheap.

slikrider20

iTrader: (9)

I highly doubt i would be able to do it myself, unless i could find a detailed tutorial somewhere. I'd probably rather have someone who knows what they are doing do it.

TDP

iTrader: (23)

I would recommend a Diamond Stage 1. It's much stronger than the stock clutch and even a little stronger than the LS7. Its currently on sale for only $299 for the basic kit. You can get your stock flywheel resurfaced for $30-40, and you'll need a new slave cylinder to do the job right. I sell new slaves for $80.
https://ls1tech.com/forums/manual-tr...s-special.html

slikrider20

iTrader: (9)

Any other recommendations? Keep in mind i'm trying to keep this is cheap as possible. Car is bone stock and will be for a long, long time.

TDP

iTrader: (23)

Well the $299 sale for the Diamond 1 is over and that was stupid-cheap...lol. It's back to $369 now.
I do have a complete LS6 clutch kit w/ flywheel that was only used for 1500 miles or so. I could let it go for $175 shipped to your door.

slikrider20

iTrader: (9)

I would be all over that. I have to wait until i get tax money back, but i will get ahold of you once i have the money. Maybe you still have that or something like it.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

SPEC Stage 1 (SC091) would be a great option. MSRP on this part is $299 and you can often find it for a bit less when ordering from one of our dealers. It will provide great drivability and torque capacity and seems to meet your needs relative to price too. Let me know if you have any further questions and I will be happy to assist you!

mike c.

iTrader: (1)

I vote the spec. I tried centerforce,two different ram clutches and spec is the only clutch that lasted in my car.yes i have a performance car but spec has all clutches for all performance. Also,get a new flywheel too. it's better for your clutch to last. start with all new and do it right only one time. good luck to ya.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

Thanks Mike...I apprecate the kind words and support.

slikrider20

iTrader: (9)

I ended up buying the stage 1 kit and getting my stock flywheel resurfaced. We ended up NOT shimming it, even though i've read that it is recommended for SPEC kits. We figured we would do more harm than help by shimming it, leading to possible clutch slipping and premature wear. What do you guys think?

The clutch engages SO fast. It's really hard to get the car to "crawl". I haven't tried shifting fast yet though. It engages maybe an inch from the floor, and i have to make sure i have the pedal pressed all the way down during shifts. I've done a little searching and it seems like bleeding the system can help this. Some people have also said that once the clutch has "broken in" the release point slowly moves up. I just hope i can fix it without having to pull the tranny again.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

The shim is intended to equalize the height of our assembly with the stock unit. The fact that the pedal is on the floor is evidencing the need for the shim to be installed. You are welcome to continue bleeding the system in hopes that some of your engagement issue is relative to air in the system...but it is likely that you needed the shim (as is recommended). Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,

LS1T56FTW

iTrader: (3)

+1. All the shim does is allows the clutch engagement to be closer to stock engagement (friction point about mid 'stroke') rather than on the floor. I plan on running the shim and getting an adjustable MC since I like the friction point near the top.

slikrider20

iTrader: (9)

That's what i really thought but i could not convince my help to use it. He said he talked to people all over that have never had to shim before. I know i'm not dropping that trans again, guess i'll just have to get used to it

Tyler_LS1

iTrader: (2)

my vote is the LS7 clutch, ive been running it in may car for a while now and am very happy with it. its drives just like stock but its much stronger, i race the car a lot and have never had any issues with it.

slikrider20

iTrader: (9)

l already bought a Spec 1 clutch. I've done more reading and i've seen people post that the shim burnt up some peoples SPEC clutch's when it wasn't needed. I guess by not using the shim, i guarantee that clutch isn't slipping and isn't going to **** out on me. I just wish there was an easier way to get it to engage in the middle somewhere.

therealcreeper

iTrader: (37)

...except by not installing the shim you run a high risk disengagement problems which will probably result in difficult getting into gear, poor high rpm shifting, increased synchro wear, etc

when the break in period is over go find a level parking lot, put the car in 1st gear with the clutch pedal down and rev to 6k rpm. if the car lurches forward at all that means the clutch is not fully disengaging, and it would be very wise to install the shim.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

You could always install an adjustable master as another means for improving release. There are measurements listed all over the forum relative to determining the need for a shim. Good luck and let me know if you need anything else. Thanks,

slikrider20

iTrader: (9)

I did this and the car does not move at all.

One other thing i've noticed. When i start moving, the car shakes really bad. It does it in reverse too. Ive done a little searching and it seems like people with the SPEC clutch's experienced this quite a bit, but goes away. So far i've put about 400 miles on the clutch, and it hasn't gotten any better. Is this pretty normal? And how many miles will i have to put on for it to go away?

20TA02

iTrader: (5)

youre talking about chatter... mine did it for about 500 miles when i installed a SPEC stage 3+... after the 500 or so miles it started to go away until it totally went away... how bad is the shaking?