1998silverbird

iTrader: (29)

There is a guy in my area that sells the Spec steel flywheels for 175.00.. I am doing a motor swap in my T/A and I am getting a new clutch. Do you think its worth it to get the Spec Flywheel or just get the stock flywheel resurfaced? This would be the 2nd time the stock flywheel will be resurfaced..

southernculture

iTrader: (1)

Stay away from SPEC products!!!!!!

mchdg86

iTrader: (3)

Good post full of helpful info. Why don't you explane why you belive he should stay away from spec products?

1998silverbird

iTrader: (29)

I have a spec Stage 2+ in my T/A right now and it has close to 50,000 miles on it. Never had a issue with it at all.. I had a Spec Stage 3 clutch in my 98 V6 firebird for 30,000 miles and never had a issue with that as well. I am very confident with spec and there clutchs and I assume there Flywheels are just as good as well. I am just asking if I should get the Spec Flywheel or just get my stock one resurfaced for a 2nd time?

southernculture

iTrader: (1)

Their policies for returns and repacement are garbage see my other post, clutch hyd issues.

TDP

iTrader: (23)

$175 is a really good deal. There are only 3 different types of flywheels that are widely used...doesn't matter who makes them. By different types, I mean different grades of steel. Here they are in order of lowest quality to highest quality. There is carbon steel, nickel steel, and chromoly. The SPEC and RAM flywheels, as well as others is a type of nickel steel, but not sure on the exact number. This is what the majority of "billet" flywheels are made of.

TDP

iTrader: (23)

If you are looking into clutches, check out www.diamondclutch.com

1998silverbird

iTrader: (29)

All I am trying to figure out if it is worth the money to get the spec flywheel for 175.00 or just get my stock one resurfaced for the 50.00? I am going to be using a Spec Stage 3 clutch as I have been and will continue to be a fan of the spec clutches.

wrd1972

iTrader: (12)

I got a brand spanking new Zoom LT1 flywheel from Advance Auto parts for $72 with the online discounts. I even had the balance checked against the OEM PP and it was spot on. Working great.

southernculture

iTrader: (1)

If you are dead set on a spec setup I will sell you my garbage one for 300 when they send it back to me and you will get a really good deal!

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

1998, generally speaking you should not remove more than .015" from the stock flywheel. If it has been surfaced twice then it will probably be thinner than the minimum suggested thickness. That being said our unit would be a great option...as long as it hasn't been over machined too! If you can get a measurment of the thickness of the unit (crank mounting surface to friction surface) I will be happy to confirm if it is within specification.


Southern...I have done everything I can to assist you and will continue to...but boy you sure make it hard to want to. You had an issue, I have provided an RMA# for this. Once we assess the parts I will let you know what we find. As a side note, over-torquing a pressure-plate is not ideal when it comes to function...you admitted to doing this...though I am trying to be as open minded about the cause of your issue as I can.

southernculture

iTrader: (1)

you are very quick to say that the pp being over torqued could have damaged it. I am having a very hard time understanding how that it would be damaged. I am sending it back however I was waiting to get paid so I could pay for the shipping back to you.

SPEC-01

iTrader: (2)

There are a number of factors that can affect actuation. I have addressed several of these factors on the forum and we discussed others on the phone. At this point I am proving information on potential causes because until I see the parts I can't be certain what the issue is. I have tried to be as open-minded as possible relative to potential causes and continue to be. Though you have made it quite clear, that in your mind there is no potential for anything you have done to be a factor. I understand that this could result from a problem on this end but that it could also be the result of something on your side too. As mentioned, I will do what I can to help you either way.

My primary concern relative to your torque application is that it was not equal on all bolts and/or that you did not apply said torque in the standard star-pattern (sequence) that is required. Inconsistent torque application will certainly affect clutch actuation because the diaphragm will not have consistent height which in turn would cause a "lazy" release. Think of it this way, if the bearing is compressing some fingers but not all of them those that are not compressed equally will not lift their side of the plate thoroughly. This would cause the clutch to drag. Application of torque without proper sequence (i.e. applying all torque to one bolt then moving on to the next bolt, etc...) could easily warp the plate which would clearly affect the way that it releases.

I am happy to provide any further info you require in an effort to assist in your (an others) understanding of the cause/effect relationship that exists in clutch function. Let me know if you have any further questions. Thanks,

southernculture

iTrader: (1)

I didnt torque the bolts down to 22 at first. I did torque them down in a star pattern and they were not ALOT more than 22 but I didnt use a torque wrench at first. I will send the kit in and we will go from there.