Mr Nick

Hello guys and gals,

I'm looking to get an 05-06 M6 GTO, and I found one that has some work done to it. This would be my daily driver, so I'd like to know if this cam would be acceptable for that. I'd use my Magnum for remainder of this winter, then sell it. Ideally I would purchase a beater for next winter, but if money doesn't allow, I'll need to drive the GTO year round (Chicago winter).

Looking for opinions on overall drive-ability of this combo:

I'm new to LSx motors, so I'm not sure how 'big' this cam is.

Comp Cam LS1 3633F/3475R HR111+1.
Gross valve lift is .600 intake and .613 exhaust.
Duration at .006 Tappet Lift is 278/293.
Duration at .050 Intake is 228 and Exhaust is 238.
Matching springs, retainers etc...

Chassis dyno tuned 432rwhp 420rwtq

-Install and tune by BEHE Performance
-Fast 92mm Intake Manifold
-180degree thermostat.
-Kooks 3/4 Stainless Steel long tube headers
-Kooks Stainless Steel cat-less mid pipes


Thanks!
Nick

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

How much stop and go driving do you do? 228/238 111 is not a small cam. Getting good drivability below 1500 rpm from it will require a tuner with some patience. If they had installed the cam before, the shop should be able to give you an honest assessment based upon your description of what a "daily driver" means to you..

Mr Nick

Majority of my driving is on the highway, but of course there is local driving as well while running errands etc, including some in city of Chicago.

I don't want it to be a dog when taking of slowly from a stop while in traffic, requiring me to start from a higher RPM or slip the clutch a bit. (it's an M6)


I hear an LSx cam swap is pretty simple, if I pick up this car and decide the cam is a touch 'too much' for me, would I be able to swap in a smaller cam and possibly retain the same lifters, pushrods, springs etc? (to keep costs down)

RedHotG8

iTrader: (1)

I have the 6-speed auto with the 6.0 and the revs build quickly since 1st gear is really low in the G8 and the GTO. Plus it's a high torque motor so it pulls well down low, so you won't have to slip the clutch to get the car moving.

Ragtop 99

iTrader: (7)

I don't have a GTO so i don't know what is involved in the swap that is unique to that car. Wasn't too bad on a my Camaro, but a vette is more effort than average.

You would be able to retain the valve train if you switch to a milder grind using the same lobe profiles.

gtotoocool1

iTrader: (6)

for a DD cam, Ed Curtis's Streetsweeper(228/232, 111 LSA)is popular on the 6.0 cars.if it was me,i would run something around a 224/228,if not a little smaller.i'll give up some peak power for more TQ down low where my car spends most of it's time.but a lot of that is personal preference.

Mez

iTrader: (1)

Agree.

My cam in a 2005 Corvette w/6 speed manual is the Lingenfelter GT-11. Specs are:
Duration @ .050: 215 intake 231 exhaust.
Lift: .631 intake, .644 exhaust.
LSA: 118
Overlap: -13

Smooth idle:650 rpm
Tuner: owner (me)
Dyno: 457 rwhp/419 rwtq
Other Mods: Headers, ported 243 heads, FAST 92, ported throttle body

I feel for a daily driver, something with 220 intake/230 exhaust and LSA of 116 degrees would be better. The lift should be fine in the ~ .560-.580" range with unported heads and stock intake. More if ported to take advantage of the additional flow.

The Lingenfelter GT-11 cam was developed for the LS1 and the high lift helps get additional flow and reduce shrouding from a smaller 3.90" bore. It idles virtually the same as stock but make nice torque and power to 6100 rpm where it rolls off.

IDRIVEAG8GT

Check my sig. It's a neat little cam that requires little tuning and will pick you up good HP whether boosted or N/A, and it has a wee little lope to it.

Fb0dy0nly

iTrader: (10)

What LSA is that? and do you have it advanced at all?

IDRIVEAG8GT

114 LSA, -4 overlap, no advance. It's 0-0

JPH

iTrader: (2)

224/232 .595/.600 113+4 is what I would out in it.

johnbell2

If it were up to me, the last thing I'd drive in a Chicago winter is a GTO. Get a used fwd car for putting around town and sacrifice that to the salt&sand gods. Keep the nice cars covered up and save 'em for better weather.

Seriously, I can't imagine driving some v8 rwd lopey monster in the middle of an icy Chicago street. I like my insurance agent but I'm not _that_ eager to meet him.

TipsyMcStagger

iTrader: (1)

Dumb question but why is the LSA stated as 113+4? Is this different than 117?

Honest question...trying to get educated.

Thanks.

Tipsy

KCS

iTrader: (20)

It's a 113 LSA but advanced 4 degrees when installed dot to dot on the timing set, hence the "+4".

TipsyMcStagger

iTrader: (1)

I see...thanks.

Tipsy

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

If you get the car I'd drive it for at least a full week with the current cam, then if you still want to go with a different cam you can tell us more accurately what changes you want.

DACTARI

iTrader: (1)

That's very close to my cam, and very close to Martin @ Tick's cams. It has a fair bit of overlap, so it will def lope. The overlap will cause some stink and fuel use at low RPMs. For best low speed behavior, I would not run a lightweight flywheel. It will be a fantastic mid range cam that will carry peak torque for a long while. That's a torque table cam.

99Bluz28

iTrader: (35)

Yeah, I am now; thanks!

BizZzatch350

iTrader: (33)

I have a C6 with a TSP 228R on a 114. Other than a very slight lope at idle, it drives the same as it did when it was bolt ons.