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do u need to retorque heads

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Old 01-13-2011, 01:15 PM
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Default do u need to retorque heads

i just put my new motor in my car and everything is finished i have been breaking it in and was wanting to know do i need to go back and retorque the heads at any certian time??
Old 01-13-2011, 01:26 PM
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You don't re-torque TTY bolts, which is what GM head bolts are. And the GM head gaskets are MLS, no re-torquing for those.
Old 01-13-2011, 01:29 PM
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The only thing off the top of my head I can think of re torquing is header bolts.
Old 01-13-2011, 01:48 PM
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Torque to yield bolts never need to be retorqued, so no.
Old 01-13-2011, 02:23 PM
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As stated, no re-torque on the GM bolts. Did you install GM bolts? I did re-torque my ARP studs after two heat cycles, but they aren't TTY.
Old 01-13-2011, 02:40 PM
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mine are arp bolts and i will redo the header bolts thanx for reminding me
Old 01-13-2011, 03:12 PM
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Like above, answer is no with gm bolts. Check valve covers for good measure, collectors, headers, and pan bolts for leaks, pretty much anything that will expand and contrast from direct heat/cold.
Old 01-13-2011, 03:43 PM
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Stage 8 locking header bolts are worth it. They never back off or come loose.
Old 01-13-2011, 05:04 PM
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Originally Posted by slap(A)hoe
mine are arp bolts and i will redo the header bolts thanx for reminding me
If it were my car, I would re-torque with the ARP bolts. I did with the studs and found that it was needed. You must back off one bolt at a time and then re-tighten to do this correctly as the torque measurement is a running torque.
Old 01-13-2011, 05:47 PM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
If it were my car, I would re-torque with the ARP bolts. I did with the studs and found that it was needed. You must back off one bolt at a time and then re-tighten to do this correctly as the torque measurement is a running torque.
I remember reading somewhere that you ought to either disconnect the exhaust system from the heads during the re torquing procedure, but it seems to me that if you are going to loosen and retorque the head bolts one at a time that having the exhaust still attached would do no harm. What do you think?
Old 01-13-2011, 09:00 PM
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Originally Posted by Darkman
I remember reading somewhere that you ought to either disconnect the exhaust system from the heads during the re torquing procedure, but it seems to me that if you are going to loosen and retorque the head bolts one at a time that having the exhaust still attached would do no harm. What do you think?
Shouldn't be a problem if you can get to the bolts. I need to do this on my GN powered S-10 and it will require removing the turbo, crossover pipe, and both exhaust manifolds. Not looking forward to it, especially with my back problems...
Old 01-13-2011, 09:30 PM
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ya i aint looking forward to it eithier i think i am gonna pay someone to do it
Old 01-13-2011, 09:42 PM
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I was just told by a engine builder vendor here that ARP head bolts do NOT need to be re-torqued.
Old 01-13-2011, 10:51 PM
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Originally Posted by 97ss497
I was just told by a engine builder vendor here that ARP head bolts do NOT need to be re-torqued.
Need to know about this also.
Old 01-13-2011, 11:46 PM
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Exhaust must be removed, I cant see how you would reach the bottom row of bolts with it in place.
Old 01-14-2011, 04:18 AM
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Exhaust must be removed and slid out of the way. I planned ahead and didn't use my new exhaust gaskets until after the re-torque and also didn't tighten and button up the exhaust.

Whether the OP does it or not is up to him, GM gaskets may be less inclined to leak. I backed each nut of my studs off 1/8 turn and on average used 1/4 turn to get back to the torque reading. I am running Cometics. The engine builder I spoke with who frequents this board also recommended this and does this on every motor he builds.
Old 01-14-2011, 05:50 AM
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Originally Posted by vettenuts
Exhaust must be removed and slid out of the way. I planned ahead and didn't use my new exhaust gaskets until after the re-torque and also didn't tighten and button up the exhaust.

Whether the OP does it or not is up to him, GM gaskets may be less inclined to leak. I backed each nut of my studs off 1/8 turn and on average used 1/4 turn to get back to the torque reading. I am running Cometics. The engine builder I spoke with who frequents this board also recommended this and does this on every motor he builds.
Thanks.



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