mac62989

iTrader: (1)

Ive had my 01 WS6 for a little over a year now. I am the third owner but bought it from a guy who put less than 1,000 miles on it in 3 years. He basically bought it and had it sit in a garage. When I bought it, it was bone stock. Since then Ive put on a catback and soon Ill be doing headers and a catted-y. I change the oil every 3,000 miles and I planned on doing new plugs with the headers. In 98% city driving I average 190 MPT shifting around 2,500 RPMS. Other than the plugs and new antifreeze that I plan on doing, what would be suggested for a tune-up at this milegage? Im oblivous to matience records by the last owner keep in mind other than an oil change and new battery from '07. Thanks in advance.

FiredUpZ28

I'd flush the cooling system (ALL 4th gen F bodies are over 5 years old), flush the brake fluid, drop the rear cover and clean the diff out, inspect for wear and refill with fluid/limited slip additive. Also F body shocks wear out around 50k but people just ride on crap shocks and call it the cars fault that it rides rough. Its not a bad idea to go over all of the weatherstripping on the car with some silicone too to keep it from drying out (ESPECIALLY t top cars). Also clean the wheels with car soap and get some compound and polish them up. Thats something a lotta owners of chrome wheel cars forget/neglect to do. Oh, and a seafoam top engine cleaner can help get some carbon out if the previous owner drove it like a grandma.

Having said that, shifting at 2500 is kind of high for city driving, you should be able to keep up with traffic just fine not going over 2000.

mac62989

iTrader: (1)

Ya I do shift at 2,000 a good amount of the time, I just said 2,500 to be an average of when I have a heavy foot. Shocks will be done with some drop springs soon enough. My last F-body I had until 98,000 miles on stock springs. I guess Im use to the rough ride. The wheels will be stripped of their clear coat and polished up this winter. The weatherstriping is gone over every time I detail the car. Im 50/50 on seafoam. I feel like the idea is great but some people swear against it.

FiredUpZ28

It doesn't hurt anything. If people claim it does, they had an underlying problem somewhere or they did it wrong. Its not the springs on these cars, springs last a long long time, its the shocks. If you are plan on lowering plan the rest of the suspension accordingly, as lowering screws with suspension geometry and you're going to need adjustable components (shocks, rear control arms, panhard bar).

myk

iTrader: (4)

Do you have the owner's manual? Just follow the "severe duty" maintenance routine and that should cover everything...

mac62989

iTrader: (1)

Firedup- I meant shocks, I went 98,000 on stock shocks. My mind was on springs because I wanted to get across Id be doing shocks when I lower it. Thanks Myk I dont know why I didnt look in there.

LCTA

iTrader: (17)

I agree with what you've said, and whats been said. Here's my short list for what I did to mine when I bought it with 120k

1.) Sea Foam followed by oil change
2.) Clean MAF and IAC sensors
3.) Flush cooling system and refill
4.) Flush the brake fluid
5.) Flush power steering fluid
6.) Drain / flush and replace fluid in tranny....auto OR 6spd
7.) Drain and refill diff.
8.) Re-pack all idler and tensioner pulleys with grease
9.) Change out your spark plugs
10.) Change fuel filter
11.) Change or recharge air filter
12.) Clean injectors


Can't really think of anything else besides maybe conditioning the T-top seals and maybe checking out the door alignment.

Good luck and let us know how it goes.

FiredUpZ28

Oh, and something else to put out there if/when (more than likely "when") your power window motor(s) go out, make sure you replace the motor and regulator together, as one piece, at the same time. Common mistake people go through all this trouble to replace the motor only to have it go bad again in a year or two.

mac62989

iTrader: (1)

I changed the driveside motor when I bought the car. Didnt touch the regulator just changed out the guides that bolt on top of the door. The felt like stuff was worn out and I didnt want it scratching the windows.

LS6427

iTrader: (2)

All good stuff listed.


mac62989,
Sea Foam is good for the oil (crankcase) flush. Just let it idle, do not drive around with it in there. Just let it idle for 5 minutes right before the oil change. Then change it. Or use GUNK engine flush, one can.

Sea Foam is great for the gas tank too. Put in a FULL can to 1/4 tank of gas. Run it out, then change your fuel filter. That will also clean your fuel injectors. I've been doing the full can in 1/4 tank of gas every 3-4 months for 13 years now.

Sea Foam for cleaning the top end......PLAIN STUPID, NUFF SAID, I will not explain why.......don't waste your time. It does damn near nothing.
-----Use MCCC if you want to do a top end clean. The GM stuff is damn good too. MCCC is the best on the market.

For $36.00, I would go get a new set of spark plug wires at Advance Auto. I've had them on my 427ci for years and years now, they are GREAT quality wires.

Clean out your coolant overflow tank...before....you do the radiator flush.

Spray the hell out of your IAT sensor in the lid with the MAF cleaner while your doing the MAF.

And for PETES sake....when you put new spark plugs in, just buy NGK TR5 or TR55 plugs, they are 100% identical. They just come gapped differently. Get a gapper and gap them all to .050. Nothing else.... .050 Put dielectric grease on the tips and the ceramic, as well as a glob up in the coil port and spark plug wire end. Use anti-sieze on the threads and only put them in hand tight, then literally a tiny little snug with the ratchet, maybe 1/4 turn. This will make the next plug change a BREEZE.

Good luck........

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