TCC stop lamp switch and brake torque converter switch
#1
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Thread Starter
TCC stop lamp switch and brake torque converter switch
Hello,
2002 LS1 in a 65 impala. 4l60e trans.
I am somewhat confused by the two. I understand that on an 02 Ls1 connector C220 has Pin C listed as a TCC Stop Lamp switch and Pin D as a Brake torque converter switch.
I understand the Brake Torque Converter Switch will go to a Bosch relay that will keep power to the Pin D until the brake lights send energy to the relay then it will be cut. An explanation is posted at http://www.jaguarspecialties.com/tech_tips5.asp Basically just connecting to the brake lights.
As for Pin C, I basically wire a hot when ignition on to this wire? Pink should be the color of this wire since it is ignition hot only?
2002 LS1 in a 65 impala. 4l60e trans.
I am somewhat confused by the two. I understand that on an 02 Ls1 connector C220 has Pin C listed as a TCC Stop Lamp switch and Pin D as a Brake torque converter switch.
I understand the Brake Torque Converter Switch will go to a Bosch relay that will keep power to the Pin D until the brake lights send energy to the relay then it will be cut. An explanation is posted at http://www.jaguarspecialties.com/tech_tips5.asp Basically just connecting to the brake lights.
As for Pin C, I basically wire a hot when ignition on to this wire? Pink should be the color of this wire since it is ignition hot only?
#3
TECH Junkie
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A little info.
http://www.lt1swap.com/dbw.htm
http://chevythunder.com/drive_by_wir...erator%20pedal
And you might consider a mid 80 G body brake switch, with cruise, rather than the relay.
I bought this.
http://www.painlessperformance.com/w...rchAll=Customs
I actually have the full time +12 v feeding the stop switch and TCC switch. It was just easier that way. If there's no current drain, I'll leave it that way.
http://www.lt1swap.com/dbw.htm
http://chevythunder.com/drive_by_wir...erator%20pedal
And you might consider a mid 80 G body brake switch, with cruise, rather than the relay.
I bought this.
http://www.painlessperformance.com/w...rchAll=Customs
I actually have the full time +12 v feeding the stop switch and TCC switch. It was just easier that way. If there's no current drain, I'll leave it that way.
#4
TECH Veteran
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To the OP, like garys 68 mentioned, it would be easier to just use a mid 70's to 80's GM brake light switch from a car with cruise control, they have 2 sets of contacts, one normally open, and one normally closed, then wire up the brake lights just like stock (your original plug should plug on it), then run a key on power to one side of the other 2 contacts and the other to the transmission torq converter.
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#8
TECH Veteran
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I hope I'm not coming off as a smart ***, just trying to help. I wouldn't want you to let the smoke out of your PCM, cause it's damn near impossible to catch it all and get it all back in once that happens!
#9
TECH Junkie
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Are you sure about the ground. I've seen a few schematics (including the links above) and I've never seen an indication of ground for the CPP switch with pedal depressed.
Damn, my 5 page schematic just shows the wire going to the anti-lock brake system.
The switch I'm using for it is a momentary spdt, so it's not a big deal to wire it that way. Do you have a schematic showing it wired to ground? I wouldn't want to fry anything either.
Damn, my 5 page schematic just shows the wire going to the anti-lock brake system.
The switch I'm using for it is a momentary spdt, so it's not a big deal to wire it that way. Do you have a schematic showing it wired to ground? I wouldn't want to fry anything either.
It does see an open when the pedal is depressed, but what I was saying is that when it's closed (brakes released) it sees a ground, not power. I'm not sure what happens when you put 12v to a PCM terminal that is supposed to be a ground, but I can't imagine it it would be good for it.
I hope I'm not coming off as a smart ***, just trying to help. I wouldn't want you to let the smoke out of your PCM, cause it's damn near impossible to catch it all and get it all back in once that happens!
I hope I'm not coming off as a smart ***, just trying to help. I wouldn't want you to let the smoke out of your PCM, cause it's damn near impossible to catch it all and get it all back in once that happens!
#10
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I do have a schematic that shows it, but it's on paper, not my computer. I tried to take some pics of it, but they are blurry. The first pic the CPP is in the upper left corner. The second pic it's in the lower left corner, you can see it has a gray wire going from the switch to the PCM terminal #32, the other wire is black and if you follow it down, it ties into the PCM grounds, and says it's grounded at rear of left cylinder head.
#11
TECH Junkie
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Found the discepency.
98-02 f body 5.7 LS1 CPP pin 32, brake pin 33
I was looking at the corvette/truck schematics.
03-05 truck 5.3, 6.0 CPP pin 35, brake pin 33
I've confirmed from another couple truck schematics that CPP is NC +12v when not depressed, open when depressed.
99-02 Corvette LS1 is the same as the truck.
It does seem odd that they would change the signal from ground to +12 volts though. Maybe something to do with DBW/TAC on corvettes and trucks?
98-02 f body 5.7 LS1 CPP pin 32, brake pin 33
I was looking at the corvette/truck schematics.
03-05 truck 5.3, 6.0 CPP pin 35, brake pin 33
I've confirmed from another couple truck schematics that CPP is NC +12v when not depressed, open when depressed.
99-02 Corvette LS1 is the same as the truck.
It does seem odd that they would change the signal from ground to +12 volts though. Maybe something to do with DBW/TAC on corvettes and trucks?
Last edited by garys 68; 01-18-2011 at 12:25 PM.
#12
TECH Addict
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You and LS1Nova71 just mentioned something I noticed a long time ago but thought I was crazy... The cars vs. trucks are pinned differently. The trucks are also pinned differently by year and engine size.
Executive brief for the new: make sure you have the harness you think you have and make sure you have a schematic for the harness you have because they are NOT "all the same."
Executive brief for the new: make sure you have the harness you think you have and make sure you have a schematic for the harness you have because they are NOT "all the same."