water pump died, gota few questions
01-16-2011, 10:32 PM
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water pump died, gota few questions hey guys, well today i noticed a puddle of coolant under my car, i jacked it up and started it back up and noticed its gushing out of what looks like a little weep hole on the bottom of the water pump. i just bought a new pump, any advice on removing it and installing it? i guess i should drain all coolant.
01-16-2011, 10:44 PM
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Drain the radiator. Don't worry about the block. You'll need a wobbly extension to get the bolt behind the power steering pump. Very straight forward. Take fan shroud out. Lots more room that way. Once all six bolts are out, wiggle it off the dowels. If it's real stuck then use a pry bar that has a clean edge. Take pump off just enough so you have a controlled stream of coolant coming out. That way it will not soak everything including the opti. Wait for coolant to drain. Take pump off completely and dry mouths of water jackets with paper towels.
Clean block very very well. It'll be a bitch to get to the jackets where the accessory bracket is, but it needs to be done. Use a wire wheel on a drill. Works wonders. Use good razor blade on waterpump. When installing gaskets there is no need for sealant. In order to make sure gaskets are aligned properly, just put two bolts on each side and screw into block. Make absolutely sure the gasket surfaces are completely clean. Torque bolts down in a circular motion and torque the last two outside bolts last. Torque in two steps. Can't remember what the torque spec is. Perhaps 35ft. lbs? Get a Haynes manual if you don't have one. It'll list the torque spec.
When filling radiator back up you'll need approx two gallons of fluid. Open bleeder screws and fill radiator. You'll hear hissing as you fill radiator. Close screw on thermostat housing first once it starts bubbling coolant out. Keep heater hose bleeder screw open. Fill radiator until almost full. Close bleeder screw. Start engine. Have someone keep an eye on temp gauge as you keep eye on coolant level. You'll see coolant start flowing and spitting out of the cylinder head return line. If coolant level goes down then fill accordingly. Once you get a steady stream of coolant out of the cylinder head return line then pretty much all air has been purged. If coolant starts to come up then cap radiator and let system pressurize. Once pressurized open bleeder screw on heater hose and bleed that way.
Clean block very very well. It'll be a bitch to get to the jackets where the accessory bracket is, but it needs to be done. Use a wire wheel on a drill. Works wonders. Use good razor blade on waterpump. When installing gaskets there is no need for sealant. In order to make sure gaskets are aligned properly, just put two bolts on each side and screw into block. Make absolutely sure the gasket surfaces are completely clean. Torque bolts down in a circular motion and torque the last two outside bolts last. Torque in two steps. Can't remember what the torque spec is. Perhaps 35ft. lbs? Get a Haynes manual if you don't have one. It'll list the torque spec.
When filling radiator back up you'll need approx two gallons of fluid. Open bleeder screws and fill radiator. You'll hear hissing as you fill radiator. Close screw on thermostat housing first once it starts bubbling coolant out. Keep heater hose bleeder screw open. Fill radiator until almost full. Close bleeder screw. Start engine. Have someone keep an eye on temp gauge as you keep eye on coolant level. You'll see coolant start flowing and spitting out of the cylinder head return line. If coolant level goes down then fill accordingly. Once you get a steady stream of coolant out of the cylinder head return line then pretty much all air has been purged. If coolant starts to come up then cap radiator and let system pressurize. Once pressurized open bleeder screw on heater hose and bleed that way.
Last edited by SS RRR; 01-16-2011 at 10:49 PM.
01-17-2011, 06:13 PM
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Hi, you can borrow tools from autoZONE and oreilly with a deposit. I would pressure test after new install. This is a good time for hoses/thermostat/belts if needed along with a good flushing of your system... work safely and use proper torque procedures to avoid issues.have a blessed day.........jim
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01-24-2011, 03:06 PM
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i usually just take the middle bolts out compltely and the coolant drains out of those, that way it doesn't gush all over the place (opti mostly) when you pull it off
nobody mentioned using thread sealer on the bolts? is this not necessary? i always use it on mine
nobody mentioned using thread sealer on the bolts? is this not necessary? i always use it on mine
01-26-2011, 11:26 PM
#13
