Windows sometime work...
#1
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Windows sometime work...
Hey guys. I can be driving and try to roll down the window in my 2000 T/A WS6, and nothing happeneds. I rock back and forth on the switch and then out of no where they work. Or, I can turn the car off, then back on and they work. Today, they wouldnt do anything all morning. When i got to work, I got my ohm meter, and i turned the car on, and the windows started working, so I really couldnt test to see if I wasnt getting voltage.
You guys have any idea what is going on with my windows?
p.s. the motors are good, when they roll up and down, they do so just fine... Its getting them to do anything sometimes is my problem.
You guys have any idea what is going on with my windows?
p.s. the motors are good, when they roll up and down, they do so just fine... Its getting them to do anything sometimes is my problem.
#2
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check this out, i had somewhat the same problem and my motors were good, theres a vid of how much difference it made on the 2nd page
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...down-kits.html
https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...down-kits.html
#3
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I have the same problem in my camaro on the driver's side. Most times I can bang on the door and it starts working, but that is becoming less effective. It seems like a deteriorating connection either at the switch or the motor. it's just too cold outside to play around with it. By the way, when it does work it is not slow, so I don't believe it's the typical motor problem people write about.
#4
Save the manuals!
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The motors ARE bad.
There is a thermal cutoff switch inside the motor casing that senses when the motor starts working harder as the glass closes up. This switch cuts power to the motor so it doesn't burn out. When this cutoff switch goes bad, even the normal resistance of the glass moving up and down will cause it to cut power to the motor.
Replacing motors with OEM motors will just replace garbage with garbage. These things were designed in the 60's for GM cars and they just don't cut it almost half a century later. The least costly escape from this situation is to replace with a Doorman brand motor. This is a new design that is supposed to be sealed better from contaminants and we have yet to see anyone reporting issues with them on this site. The other benefit is that they are 100% new and not rebuilt.
There is a thermal cutoff switch inside the motor casing that senses when the motor starts working harder as the glass closes up. This switch cuts power to the motor so it doesn't burn out. When this cutoff switch goes bad, even the normal resistance of the glass moving up and down will cause it to cut power to the motor.
Replacing motors with OEM motors will just replace garbage with garbage. These things were designed in the 60's for GM cars and they just don't cut it almost half a century later. The least costly escape from this situation is to replace with a Doorman brand motor. This is a new design that is supposed to be sealed better from contaminants and we have yet to see anyone reporting issues with them on this site. The other benefit is that they are 100% new and not rebuilt.
#7
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At first I had to turn the car off or play with the switches until it finally started to work again. It eventually stopped working all together so I immediately went and got a new switch and it has been working ever since.
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#13
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It's a possibility that it could be the switch, but as stated above it could definitely be the motors...you could always got to a junkyard and get a switch for a few bucks and take 5 minutes to check
#14
Save the manuals!
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I missed a detail in the OP.
If the window won't go up (or down) = most likely probably a bad motor.
If the window won't go down = could be a bad switch.
One thing to look at is the driver's side switch:
- The driver's window is wired from the driver's side window switch on the driver's console to the express down module and then to the motor.
- The passenger window is wired from the passenger's side window switch on the driver's console to the passenger's side switch on the passenger's console and then to the window.
So, if you have a problem on the passenger side, the issue could be with either switch. Testing both switches may help localize the problem.
If the window won't go up (or down) = most likely probably a bad motor.
If the window won't go down = could be a bad switch.
One thing to look at is the driver's side switch:
- The driver's window is wired from the driver's side window switch on the driver's console to the express down module and then to the motor.
- The passenger window is wired from the passenger's side window switch on the driver's console to the passenger's side switch on the passenger's console and then to the window.
So, if you have a problem on the passenger side, the issue could be with either switch. Testing both switches may help localize the problem.
#15
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If it is an intermitten problem and jiggling the switches fixes it then the switches or their connections are the issue. If the problem is that the windows move some and then stop and you have to wait a few minutes for them to move again then the problem is the heat resistant strips in the motors. You can replace the motors with new ones that will likely eventually fail too or follow my writeup on repairing the ones you have by bypassing the resistor strips. My way will not fix the voltage issue that causes the passenger motor to go slow, that is a different issue all together.
My fix for bad window motors: https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...tors-pics.html
To fix slow passenger window: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...indow-fix.html
My fix for bad window motors: https://ls1tech.com/forums/stereo-el...tors-pics.html
To fix slow passenger window: https://ls1tech.com/forums/general-m...indow-fix.html