speedometer needle sticking 2001 camaro
01-19-2011, 08:41 PM
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speedometer needle sticking 2001 camaro just recently my speedometer needle has started sticking everything in the guage cluster seems to work just fine except for the speedometer can somebody give me an idea of what this problem might be and how i can go about fixing it any advice would help thanks
01-20-2011, 05:45 PM
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01-20-2011, 08:32 PM
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thanks for the help i have a better idea of what i need to do now and yeah i knew the speedometer didnt have a cable because i have had it out before to put in leds was thinking maybe something is to tight i hope i dont have to replace the intire cluster.
10-27-2013, 12:16 PM
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https://ls1tech.com/forums/pcm-diagn...l#post17780593 . this is what I posted about what I did to fix it.
11-07-2013, 10:04 PM
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Hey, got a update. last post was based off of driving up to speeds of 50mph. got on the interstate and it did stick some around 60mph or faster but it was not as bad as it was before I changed out the stepper motor. I can tolerate it I guess. Yet, I'm still not satisfied as I've decided and bought a android tablet to be exclusively connected my instrument panel where I am gonna to mount it to fold down in front of my tach and speedometer to compensate for the needle problem. I'm going to use a elm327 interface and the "torque" app with the tablet. Hopefully I can find some good gauge skins to work with the torque app. We'll see.
12-25-2013, 01:57 PM
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Alright. I last replied about getting a Tablet to cover over my interface but for those of you who do not want to rig that up I think I might have a idea to fix a sticky needle which is do what I posted on the other thread. This was my other thread post:
hey. know this is a old thread. just had my speedometer needle sticking becuz I put the BEM performance white face gauge overlay on my gauges. At the same time I was changing out my original V6 cluster to finally a V8 cluster assembly since I did a swap in '10. So I get everything hooked up and drive down the interstate and it was no way I could tolerate what happend. It would stay at 68mph when i'm going 78. so sporadically unresponsive. I couldn't rely on it at all. I took out the face part and THAT ONLY. the face had the stepper/pointer motor on it and the needles on the other side of it. You can just leave the rest of the cluster assembly "plugged in" the car. So I took out the stepper motor for the needle and compared it to the one I had in my original V6 Cluster with a multimeter. it had nearly the same ohms across the 4 points in comparison to the V8 speedo stepper motor. And the key thing that made this stepper motor not stick was that when you put the needle back on it with just the motor and needle in your hand, the needle spins so much more loose. Spins without any friction/resistance so I thought "hey thats what I need". Thought if anything, this stepper motor wouldn't cuz the needle to stick if spends so freely. So I used the V6 stepper motor in a V8 cluster and it works perfect. just go to junkyard and get even a V6 cluster face. Maybe even bring a ohm meter with you and just replace the stepper motor with one that spins more loose and has the same resistance over the 4 points.
...............Now, also do the following as well:
Take off the vinyl under the steering wheel by unscrewing the bolts, screws, vinyl clips etc. Find your the instruments panel's ground wire. It should be in the big fat loom of wiring harness going into/towards the instrument panel at the top to your right when your looking at your brake pedal. Now in that loom some where should be the ground wire. Now it gets tricky trying to find which one it is. Mine was a black/white one on my '98 Camaro. The 3 black/white ones I found was for traction control, seat belts, and finally the instrument panel ground. sounds crazy but you're just gonna have to cut one by one off until you see the one that you cut caused the gauges (especially the voltage gauge) to not work when you turn the ignition to on -not run. If you cut the traction control ground it will just turn off until you give its ground back and all is well. If you cut the seat belt one, the SRS/SIR will always see the seat belt is buckled when its not in contrary to taking away a ground (so maybe thats a good thing). So when you find the black with white tracer wire that disables the needles when you cut it, take the clusters end wire (the end that has no ground) and hook a 1000uf - 50000uf 25v-35v capacitor's positive side and take a 5-10ohm 1watt resistor and connect it across capacitors terminals, then lastly hook the capacitor's negative side to a good ground (away from power as possible). I just ordered a capacitor and I gonna hook it up like what I explained just as soon as it comes. It made a big improvement in needle movement when I experimented with a smaller capacitor.
hey. know this is a old thread. just had my speedometer needle sticking becuz I put the BEM performance white face gauge overlay on my gauges. At the same time I was changing out my original V6 cluster to finally a V8 cluster assembly since I did a swap in '10. So I get everything hooked up and drive down the interstate and it was no way I could tolerate what happend. It would stay at 68mph when i'm going 78. so sporadically unresponsive. I couldn't rely on it at all. I took out the face part and THAT ONLY. the face had the stepper/pointer motor on it and the needles on the other side of it. You can just leave the rest of the cluster assembly "plugged in" the car. So I took out the stepper motor for the needle and compared it to the one I had in my original V6 Cluster with a multimeter. it had nearly the same ohms across the 4 points in comparison to the V8 speedo stepper motor. And the key thing that made this stepper motor not stick was that when you put the needle back on it with just the motor and needle in your hand, the needle spins so much more loose. Spins without any friction/resistance so I thought "hey thats what I need". Thought if anything, this stepper motor wouldn't cuz the needle to stick if spends so freely. So I used the V6 stepper motor in a V8 cluster and it works perfect. just go to junkyard and get even a V6 cluster face. Maybe even bring a ohm meter with you and just replace the stepper motor with one that spins more loose and has the same resistance over the 4 points.
...............Now, also do the following as well:
Take off the vinyl under the steering wheel by unscrewing the bolts, screws, vinyl clips etc. Find your the instruments panel's ground wire. It should be in the big fat loom of wiring harness going into/towards the instrument panel at the top to your right when your looking at your brake pedal. Now in that loom some where should be the ground wire. Now it gets tricky trying to find which one it is. Mine was a black/white one on my '98 Camaro. The 3 black/white ones I found was for traction control, seat belts, and finally the instrument panel ground. sounds crazy but you're just gonna have to cut one by one off until you see the one that you cut caused the gauges (especially the voltage gauge) to not work when you turn the ignition to on -not run. If you cut the traction control ground it will just turn off until you give its ground back and all is well. If you cut the seat belt one, the SRS/SIR will always see the seat belt is buckled when its not in contrary to taking away a ground (so maybe thats a good thing). So when you find the black with white tracer wire that disables the needles when you cut it, take the clusters end wire (the end that has no ground) and hook a 1000uf - 50000uf 25v-35v capacitor's positive side and take a 5-10ohm 1watt resistor and connect it across capacitors terminals, then lastly hook the capacitor's negative side to a good ground (away from power as possible). I just ordered a capacitor and I gonna hook it up like what I explained just as soon as it comes. It made a big improvement in needle movement when I experimented with a smaller capacitor.
Last edited by LQ9-Muscle; 12-26-2013 at 01:30 PM.
