Shifting Problems Still after New Master
#1
Shifting Problems Still after New Master
Ok here is the story.
2002 Camaro Z28 with 80k on it. About 40K ago had the t56 rebuilt and replaced the stock clutch with a Ls7 clutch. Put in a new slave and pilot bearing as well. A few weeks ago it started getting harder to shift into all gears and when going from 2-3 at wot it was really hard to get into 3rd. If i let off at third the clutch pedal had almost no pressure. I'd have to pump a few times to get it back to normal.
Checked the fluid in the reservoir and it was black. Figured it was the master going up so i ordered a replacement from advance. It was a wagner aftermarket part. Bench bled the master and installed it. Couldn't get to the bleeder screw to bleed the system (didn't want to drill a hole in my tranny tunnel) but luckily there was enough fluid in there to drive it to my buddys shop. Pedal felt softer than before. They power bled the system today and while it goes into gear easily it still feels much softer then it did before replacing. The car will not shift into 3rd at all at WOT now. Wont shift into 4th if i run up through 2nd and 3rd from a roll. Is there still air in the system. Is my slave already going bad after only 40k? I guess i could have done the drill mod but i didnt feel like removing the line from the slave.
2002 Camaro Z28 with 80k on it. About 40K ago had the t56 rebuilt and replaced the stock clutch with a Ls7 clutch. Put in a new slave and pilot bearing as well. A few weeks ago it started getting harder to shift into all gears and when going from 2-3 at wot it was really hard to get into 3rd. If i let off at third the clutch pedal had almost no pressure. I'd have to pump a few times to get it back to normal.
Checked the fluid in the reservoir and it was black. Figured it was the master going up so i ordered a replacement from advance. It was a wagner aftermarket part. Bench bled the master and installed it. Couldn't get to the bleeder screw to bleed the system (didn't want to drill a hole in my tranny tunnel) but luckily there was enough fluid in there to drive it to my buddys shop. Pedal felt softer than before. They power bled the system today and while it goes into gear easily it still feels much softer then it did before replacing. The car will not shift into 3rd at all at WOT now. Wont shift into 4th if i run up through 2nd and 3rd from a roll. Is there still air in the system. Is my slave already going bad after only 40k? I guess i could have done the drill mod but i didnt feel like removing the line from the slave.
#7
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Just went through the same thing with my LS7 clutch/LS2 flywheel combo. Had a faulty slave so I replaced that with a new GM one and figured I'd throw a new master in so all my hydraulics are new. Put the Tick master cylinder in and there the issues arise. Got in touch with Jonathon at Tick Performance and Jason at TDP and according to them, the LS7 pressure plate has automatically adjusting fingers. Meaning when I had the stock master in, the pressure plate fingers adjusted for the amount of fluid that the GM master flowed and when the Tick master went in (flows significantly more fluid due to its bigger bore), the only place I can get disengagement/engagement is when the pedal is adjusted 3 inches from the floor. Was told I need a new pressure plate in which the fingers haven't already adjusted. Hope this helps some and maybe the pros can come in here and shed some more light on it or correct me if some of my statements are incorrect. There are supposedly a few threads on how to readjust the pressure plate fingers on the LS7 pressure plate, but I just soon get a whole new clutch setup.
I decided to just get a whole new clutch, pressure plate and flywheel from Jason at TDP. Great guy to deal with and very knowledgeable. I just didn't see the point of paying to drop the tranny yet again, bolt up a new LS7 pressure plate, and surpass its holding capabilities as soon as I put the bottle on it in the next 6 months, and pay to do it all over again. So my LS7 clutch kit will be up for sale shortly (only had 3k miles on it with the GM master), but I guess this is enough to adjust the fingers to where they are incompatible with the bigger bore Tick master cylinder.
I decided to just get a whole new clutch, pressure plate and flywheel from Jason at TDP. Great guy to deal with and very knowledgeable. I just didn't see the point of paying to drop the tranny yet again, bolt up a new LS7 pressure plate, and surpass its holding capabilities as soon as I put the bottle on it in the next 6 months, and pay to do it all over again. So my LS7 clutch kit will be up for sale shortly (only had 3k miles on it with the GM master), but I guess this is enough to adjust the fingers to where they are incompatible with the bigger bore Tick master cylinder.
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#8
The SAC mechanism in the LS7 plate is intended to maintain consistent engagement height (relative to pedal-travel) through the life of the clutch. These units can miss-adjust over time but they can be reset as well. To do this, the clutch will need to be removed from the car and the assembly (plate, disc, and flywheel bolted together) will need to be put on a press and actuated.
With the fingers depressed you will need to use a flat-head screwdriver to compress the SAC springs which are visible on the top of the pressure-plate. I can provide further directions if needed to you or your mechanic. If you like, I will be happy to take a look at pictures of the parts so I can assess the need for adjustment and the shape of the parts if needed. Just let me know. Thanks!
With the fingers depressed you will need to use a flat-head screwdriver to compress the SAC springs which are visible on the top of the pressure-plate. I can provide further directions if needed to you or your mechanic. If you like, I will be happy to take a look at pictures of the parts so I can assess the need for adjustment and the shape of the parts if needed. Just let me know. Thanks!
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No, the LS7 clutch/LS2 flywheel is a great combo - proven over and over. Its just been my experience that you can't add a different, bigger master cylinder (Tick in my case) to the set up after the self adjusting LS7 pressure plate fingers have already set themselves to the original, smaller stock master cylinder.
#12
I understand that it may seem that the Master is to blame but you could have simply had the SAC misadjust and or hang-up. Have you contacted Tick for their thoughts on this?
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Not sure if you are talking to me or the OP, but if you are asking me, then the answer is yes. I have contacted Tick numerous times as well as a few other T56 sponsors. They are all sticking to the same story I'm telling above - need a new pressure plate. I don't see how the master wouldn't be to blame when I put in my stock master back in and got full pedal, full engagement/disengagement, and no slipping issues. But I'm done tinkering with it, new clutch and flywheel on the way courtesy of a tax refund. Not gonna bother trying to reset the fingers.
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No, the LS7 clutch/LS2 flywheel is a great combo - proven over and over. Its just been my experience that you can't add a different, bigger master cylinder (Tick in my case) to the set up after the self adjusting LS7 pressure plate fingers have already set themselves to the original, smaller stock master cylinder.
Question, Im hearing the LS2 fly is the same as the LS7. Truth? Why would everyone refer to it as an LS2 fly / LS7 clutch when they could just say LS7 setup... Confused...
CJ, Ive read quite a few threads regarding the LS7 setup and most say that once they changed over the Tick wasnt necessary. Not to say from experince myself, just sayin. If your stocker is working great then why a new clutch? i say sell the Tick to someone staying stock PP and clutch.
Last edited by nimrod.sixty9; 01-27-2011 at 03:19 PM.
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I know about the setup. I was wondering if I should stay away from a used one because it self adjusted to a different car. At least I think thats what you guys are talking about (I really dont get it).
Question, Im hearing the LS2 fly is the same as the LS7. Truth? Why would everyone refer to it as an LS2 fly / LS7 clutch when they could just say LS7 setup... Confused...
CJ, Ive read quite a few threads regarding the LS7 setup and most say that once they changed over the Tick wasnt necessary. Not to say from experince myself, just sayin. If your stocker is working great then why a new clutch? i say sell the Tick to someone staying stock PP and clutch.
Question, Im hearing the LS2 fly is the same as the LS7. Truth? Why would everyone refer to it as an LS2 fly / LS7 clutch when they could just say LS7 setup... Confused...
CJ, Ive read quite a few threads regarding the LS7 setup and most say that once they changed over the Tick wasnt necessary. Not to say from experince myself, just sayin. If your stocker is working great then why a new clutch? i say sell the Tick to someone staying stock PP and clutch.
I'm getting a whole new clutch because I was going to have to buy a new pressure plate regardless, and while I'm doing that, might as well do a new clutch disc as well. Well this turns out to $260, probably more in the neighborhood of $300 when shipping is applied. I would just rather spend that ~$300 towards an entire new clutch/flywheel set up as I plan on putting the bottle to this new 408ci and was going to surpass the LS7 holding capabilities anyways. I really wanted to give the Tick a shot as I read nothing but good reviews and I was already having shifting issues in the upper RPM's. If this whole new clutch (pressure plate, disc, and flywheel) doesn't work with the Tick or some other issues come up, I think I'm writing off this built T56 and swapping to a TH400 lol.
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The SAC mechanism in the LS7 plate is intended to maintain consistent engagement height (relative to pedal-travel) through the life of the clutch. These units can miss-adjust over time but they can be reset as well. To do this, the clutch will need to be removed from the car and the assembly (plate, disc, and flywheel bolted together) will need to be put on a press and actuated.
With the fingers depressed you will need to use a flat-head screwdriver to compress the SAC springs which are visible on the top of the pressure-plate. I can provide further directions if needed to you or your mechanic. If you like, I will be happy to take a look at pictures of the parts so I can assess the need for adjustment and the shape of the parts if needed. Just let me know. Thanks!
With the fingers depressed you will need to use a flat-head screwdriver to compress the SAC springs which are visible on the top of the pressure-plate. I can provide further directions if needed to you or your mechanic. If you like, I will be happy to take a look at pictures of the parts so I can assess the need for adjustment and the shape of the parts if needed. Just let me know. Thanks!
Edit: Also, when you guys have mentioned you would need a new pressure plate..Do you mean pressure plate/clutch, or just the pressure plate. If it is just the pressure plate, anyone have a part number for it?
Last edited by Jimmy P; 02-15-2011 at 04:55 PM.