what is the weakest points of a ls1? help please
01-24-2011, 09:05 PM
#1
Staging Lane
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what is the weakest points of a ls1? help please ok i have a 99 trans am its stock the engine has 163k and i want to build something before it takes a **** on me. i already have another bare ls1 block in my garage, and im wondering what type of internals or rotating *** to put in it with out spending a whole lot of money in just the rotating ***. i know the bottom end in these motors are weak so what all would i need to buy so it will last.
these are some of the parts i have and plan on using, tell me if i should or not. x-pipe true duals, t-rex cam, 1 7/8 headers, fast 92, lingenfelter 243 series heads, and possibly nitrous one day?
thanks for the help in advance!
these are some of the parts i have and plan on using, tell me if i should or not. x-pipe true duals, t-rex cam, 1 7/8 headers, fast 92, lingenfelter 243 series heads, and possibly nitrous one day?
thanks for the help in advance!
01-24-2011, 09:20 PM
#2
The LS1 is capable of 200k miles in terms of street reliabilty. RPM-related weaknesses include rod bolts, and pushrods. If you start adding a lot of horsepower the pistons become a limitation around 600-650 horsepower.
Check out Texas Speed for rotating assemblies for your new build.
Check out Texas Speed for rotating assemblies for your new build.
Last edited by Darkman; 01-24-2011 at 09:24 PM. Reason: spelling
01-24-2011, 09:21 PM
#3
Ur future mod selection looks good. For the bottom end the crank is good to 1000hp. You should definitely swap out the rods/pistons for forged units and get quality rod bolts such as ARP or even better, Katechs. If your going to run a large shot such as 200+, have the ringlands set up for nitrous.
01-24-2011, 09:44 PM
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so the main thing i should worry about replacing is pistons, rods, and rod bolts. everything else will be fine like the crank? i just want it to have good stout internals so i dont have to worry about anything but at the same time i dont have the best paying job so im on a little of a budget
01-24-2011, 11:58 PM
#6
Yeah, you don't need a crank. Its not everyday you see someone NEEDING to replace the crank because they are about to tear it up in terms of too much horsepower. Really, the cheapest things are the major ones. Make sure you have a good oiling setup. Pump...etc. Rod Bolts are good insurance on new and older motors.
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01-25-2011, 05:54 AM
#11
If your are going to resize the rods you can use either the ARP or the Katech. The Katechs however are the only ones that have manufacturer's instructions that permit their use without resizing the rods. If the motor is apart anyway, I would resize no matter which rod bolts were used.
01-25-2011, 10:32 AM
#12
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ok ill keep my stock crank and just get my bare block honed and new cam bearings put in it. what pistons and rods should i go with? ive heard good things about wiesco, and diamond pistons which ones are alot of people using? and what brand rods should i look into?
01-25-2011, 03:30 PM
#13
Instead of selecting a particular piston or piston ring, I would select a good knowledgable vendor - you are close to Texas Speed, for example - who will provide you with parts that work together, and from whom you can get information as you go through the process. Whenever you go component shopping, you run the risk of ending up with a bunch of quality parts that still won't work together.
01-26-2011, 12:20 AM
#15
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If your are going to resize the rods you can use either the ARP or the Katech. The Katechs however are the only ones that have manufacturer's instructions that permit their use without resizing the rods. If the motor is apart anyway, I would resize no matter which rod bolts were used.
01-26-2011, 12:44 AM
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A Chuck Norris roundhouse kick is the only known weakness to the ls1 crank 
Edit: I posed a question quite like this and here is the list that I came up with after some research and pointers from some members. My goal is 500rwhp no spray.
Katech Rod Bolts ($200)
PRC 227cc CNC Ported LS Cylinder Heads ($2,400)
TSP Tsunami Cam ($400)
TSP pushrods 7.5” length ($110)
Cometic Head Gaskets ($140)
ARP Head Bolts ($150)
LS7 Lifters ($140)
FAST 102MM Intake ($1,655)
TSP 1 7/8 Headers w/ true duals exhaust ($1,005)
Racetronix LS1/LS6 37 lb./hr. Fuel Injectors ($320)
Optional:
TSP Ported LS6 Oil Pump (+10psi) ($175)
Edit: I posed a question quite like this and here is the list that I came up with after some research and pointers from some members. My goal is 500rwhp no spray.
Katech Rod Bolts ($200)
PRC 227cc CNC Ported LS Cylinder Heads ($2,400)
TSP Tsunami Cam ($400)
TSP pushrods 7.5” length ($110)
Cometic Head Gaskets ($140)
ARP Head Bolts ($150)
LS7 Lifters ($140)
FAST 102MM Intake ($1,655)
TSP 1 7/8 Headers w/ true duals exhaust ($1,005)
Racetronix LS1/LS6 37 lb./hr. Fuel Injectors ($320)
Optional:
TSP Ported LS6 Oil Pump (+10psi) ($175)
Last edited by PSnewbie; 01-26-2011 at 12:54 AM.
01-26-2011, 05:25 AM
#20
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i would put a oil pump in it since everything else is going to be new, and for the record i have used the arp rod bolts in stock rods without resizeing. the weakest thing on a ls1 that i fould first was push rods, i broke one on a stock motor they dont like rpm!!!!