BoostJunkieXL

iTrader: (18)

Can anyone link me to a wiring diagram for the headlights on my '00 TA? I can't find one large enough to view and actually be able to see what it says.

Thanks in advance!

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Here you go...

BoostJunkieXL

iTrader: (18)

Thank you WhiteBird. Can you point me in the direction of a break down in the wires going into the plug on the headlight motor?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Here is the headlight door motor schematic.

More often than not, problems with the headlight door wiring are in the connector itself. I've seen them get pretty badly corroded causing all kinds of weird symptoms.

Lifer

Great schematics, thanks!

Before I dig out my Fluke and blow the dust off, I thought I'd ask about a problem I just started having with my headlight motor, in case someone has seen this before and could possibly point me in the right direction.

I have a stock 2000 Trans/Am, Manual Trans, 162K+ miles, daily driver (even in Michigan winters). Still runs great and pulls like a champ!


Here are the symptoms.

So, what I'm seeing here is that whenever the 'parking lights' come on (including the blink when you arm/disarm), the headlight assembly opens. I'm thinking there is a crossed wire somewhere.

It appears as though "0.8 BRN" is crossed with "1 YEL" ?

Anyone?

VIP1

The plastic gears in headlight motors are stripped. Do the 180* fix or get replacement gears (brass or plastic).

https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...s-go-here.html

Danny2tek

iTrader: (1)

Yep nothing complicated, just one the motors has stripped.... luckily you posted your question first!

ss_slayer

I know that this thread is a little bit old but , anyway here I go with my problem: I bought a 98 trans am and I've been having trouble with my headlights, they stop to work after a minute of been turned on, then it start to smell like if something is burning inside. I checked the headlight switch and it have a 20amp relay between the two red cables. The conection with the relay is melted. I dont see this relay on the diagram. It looks like the last owner did it on purpose but I dont know why. What would happen if I eliminate this relay? Could this be the problem that Im having?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

The two red wires at the headlight switch are already connected to each other inside the switch. One is the power supply from the fusible link (terminal J) and the other is the output to the DRL module for automatic headlights (terminal G). If you have a non-Canadian Firebird, the second one is completely unnecessary since you don't have automatic headlights.

In any case, there is no good reason for the two red wires to be connected outside the headlight switch and certainly no reason to put a relay between them. Are you sure it's a relay and not something else like a circuit breaker or fuse? If it's a relay, what are the two coil (control) terminals (#85 and #86) connected to?

ss_slayer

Ok, it is my mistake, is a circuit breaker

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Well, you can disconnect it since it is redundant anyway but I doubt that it is the cause your problem. It could be a symptom of a problem with the wire between the headlight switch and the DRL module or inside the module itself. There is an internal fuse in the headlight switch connecting the two red wires. If there was some sort of electrical short downstream (worn insulation on the wire to the DRL module or something inside the module), it could have blown the internal fuse and caused the added circuit breaker to overheat. But again, since you don't have automatic headlights, you can safely disconnect that extra wiring and circuit breaker and possibly eliminate the symptoms.

ss_slayer

Ok, I'll disconect the wires, I'll let you know

2002SSM6

Speaking of the yellow and brown wires I ran one yellow to one brown on my 95 t/a and left the other yellow and brown disconnected and my head lights only popped up with the headlights on. And returned to closed when only the foglights were on.

matt1289

I am having this exact issue and my turn signals don't work even with all new bulbs. All the lights work but I think the trun signal issue is this:

http://www.autozone.com/autozone/par..._132997_11714_

from what I've read so far.


I'm about to take a look at the gears it see if thats the issue with the head lights. I'll post up and see what I come up with.

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Do your hazard flashers work? They run off a different flasher than the turn signals so that would be a good indication of whether the turn signal flasher is the problem.

matt1289

Yeah I 99% sure its my gears it does the exact samething as this car in this video lol

https://ls1tech.com/forums/pontiac-f...s-go-here.html

thingthatgoes

iTrader: (2)

I've found the easiest thing to do is buy an entire door motor assy from autozone. It's not much more than the gear and it comes with a lifetime warranty. So you'd be doing less work (for now anyway) and getting a freshly rebuilt motor.

S8ER95Z

iTrader: (3)

Bump, hopefully you guys can confirm what I am seeing. I need to cut the high beam wire to connect a wigwag module. Is the light grn wire the high beam wire they are talking about?

WhiteBird00

iTrader: (4)

Just so you know, headlight wigwag is very illegal unless you're police. They will get you pulled over in a second. And charges can include impersonating a police officer... just sayin'.

Yes, the power wire to each high beam is light green. It's a common circuit - both sides run off the same feed - so you will have to cut both sides individually to connect to the wig-wag module. You'll also have to provide a fused constant (battery) power supply and either a heavy duty switch or a relay to handle the current requirements.

S8ER95Z

iTrader: (3)

I'm an assistant fire chief in Illinois.
http://www.ilga.gov/legislation/ilcs...qEnd=134900000

All wired up and works great. Thanks!!