alexcoreas

iTrader: (1)

Would I have good handling with these parts and still be able to launch on the street or track or am I not choosing parts correctly. I want great handling on the street too.

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=149

http://www.umiperformance.com/catalo...roducts_id=142

http://www.bmrsuspension.com/index.c...&productid=342

fex77k

iTrader: (2)

I wouldn't get the k-member, its a lot of work to install and they aren't really that cheap. Unless you get the lightweight spindles and drag breaks then your kind of selling yourself short on the whole setup. I run all those components on the street, but of all the items I installed the full k-member did the least and cost the most. If you are dead set on the k-member don't worry about buying the upper a arms, since they only save weight. The k-member and the lower a-arms at least make working on the motor and changing plugs easy.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

I would go with all poly ended stuff on a street car

alexcoreas

iTrader: (1)

That's kind of why I wanted the k member to ease with plug changing and header clearance .

What about my handling package and rear end will that help cornering and launching

alexcoreas

iTrader: (1)

Can you help me with a setup that meets my needs if its not to much trouble

lethal bird

iTrader: (12)

Sway bar, shocks, springs

LSWHO

iTrader: (1)

LCAs, relocators/SFCs, swaybars. Disconnect sway bar for track. That's more than enough.

Read up on what the stock suspension has accomplished.

twelver12

iTrader: (3)

yes
rod ends wear out and get annoying

fex77k

iTrader: (2)

What do you want to do with the car, corner or launch. Your suspension and wheel choice will decide how well they do both.

97Z28SS

iTrader: (5)

Get all of it and you'll have a great handling car that will still hook at the track, the only thing I would change is I'd get the UMI 3 point weld in sfcs and get some lca relocation brackets also they'll help you hook once the car is lowered.

slomarao

iTrader: (6)

UMI 3pt weld ins all day. LCA's too. Poly TA mount. If you want it to handle real good shocks, springs, sways.

If you want it to 60ft. Shocks, springs, Tq arm. lose front sway bar + brackets. and do weighloss.

alexcoreas

iTrader: (1)

I want to start taking my.car to the track. but it is also daily driven

alexcoreas

iTrader: (1)

Whats the difference between welded sfc and bolt on sfc aside from the obvious?

bufmatmuslepants

iTrader: (3)

Bolt on SFCs can have the holes elongate over time. Welded in doesnt allow that.

I have heard that the stock upper A arms weigh exactly the same as the tubular upper A arms, so it doesnt save any weight, just looks cool and is stronger.

Badazz 97 TA

iTrader: (18)

Getting bolt ins also allow you to install them in your garage if you dont have a welder. Might save you some $$ from having to take the car in somewhere. You can always weld the bolt ins once there installed. Plus you will have two bolts holding it in place along with a weld. i would do the 2nd and 3rd link before the first. i dont really like the shock choice in the 3rd link but thats just me.

the 2nd and 3rd link both have the panhard bar. so you might just want to buy the LCA's seperatly.

alexcoreas

iTrader: (1)

Thanks a lot. I asked about suspension bc everyone told me to do suspension and rear end first. so ill do just that. I'm doing to go with the bolt on sfc and have it welded later on. Ill ditch the upper a arms. And just get the regular kmember and lcas separately

95mysticta

iTrader: (4)

As said make sure to get poly ended everything... i bought some used umi lca's with rod ends and they are loud and squeel if the cars sits outside they tend to rust.Poly will be quiet like stock and wont rust over if the car sits out for a day.