Anyone have info on an old Lanzar amp?
01-28-2011, 08:10 PM
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Anyone have info on an old Lanzar amp? My buddy just gave me one of his old school amps he had laying around. He doesn't remember any of the specs, but he said it used to hit hard and he ran some small subs.
Lanzar Opti Dive Plus 100 PWM MOSFET, I have no serial numbers or anything, appears the label was removed. Has full range input and separate bass input. I'm assuming it has internal crossover that automatically engages when the bass input is used although no external adjustments for roll off. It does have a bass boost and gain ***** and the power/ground connections appear to be internal, no external posts or terminals.
I am trying to figure out power ratings with different loads to put this to the best use in the best configuration available.
Lanzar Opti Dive Plus 100 PWM MOSFET, I have no serial numbers or anything, appears the label was removed. Has full range input and separate bass input. I'm assuming it has internal crossover that automatically engages when the bass input is used although no external adjustments for roll off. It does have a bass boost and gain ***** and the power/ground connections appear to be internal, no external posts or terminals.
I am trying to figure out power ratings with different loads to put this to the best use in the best configuration available.
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01-31-2011, 09:34 PM
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Hmm, I thought I read somewhere they had internal crossover, hence the dual inputs. Of course, I cannot find that information now.
I am hoping the amp puts out a solid 100W @ 2 Ohms per channel, then I can power the bazooka 6.5" subs I just bought and utilize the 200W 8 channel Monsoon for the doors and hatch. I am now wishing I had 2 Ohm DVC sail subs so I could run them in series for 4 Ohms instead of paralleling down to 2 Ohms.
I am hoping the amp puts out a solid 100W @ 2 Ohms per channel, then I can power the bazooka 6.5" subs I just bought and utilize the 200W 8 channel Monsoon for the doors and hatch. I am now wishing I had 2 Ohm DVC sail subs so I could run them in series for 4 Ohms instead of paralleling down to 2 Ohms.
02-04-2011, 09:13 AM
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Nope, not yet. I tried to order a dual amp wiring kit from Kee, but he was out of stock. So I found another place that had it in stock, I hope, and it probably won't be here until the middle of next week. Hopefully next weekend I can get it going!
Since I am installing a KIV-700 radio tomorrow, I may go to Walmart and get a kit for temporary purposes and hook that up if I get time before the sun goes down, if not, I'll just wait until next weekend as Sunday is my old lady's birthday and the big game day.
Since I am installing a KIV-700 radio tomorrow, I may go to Walmart and get a kit for temporary purposes and hook that up if I get time before the sun goes down, if not, I'll just wait until next weekend as Sunday is my old lady's birthday and the big game day.
02-07-2011, 02:04 PM
#11
Sorry about that...they come 2 to a box and when I went to the warehouse to get that kit someone had bought the case from another audio store although they showed having 2 in stock in inventory. I could have made a dual kit out of 1 4awg kit and 1 8awg kit but it wasn't what you ordered.
Anyway, I found some info on that amp for you after doing some digging:
50watt x 2 at 4ohm
100watt x 2 at 2ohm
200watt x 1 at 4ohm
and from what I read it does make real power or may actually be a little underrated. Should do pretty well with the Bazookas. Especially at the 100watt x 2 at 2ohm wiring.
Those old school Lanzar Opti's were pretty cool. Very similar to the old school Punch 45. They were "cheater" amps because it was rated at 100watts but would put out double the actual rating. Alot of amps were like that back then.
Anyway, I found some info on that amp for you after doing some digging:
50watt x 2 at 4ohm
100watt x 2 at 2ohm
200watt x 1 at 4ohm
and from what I read it does make real power or may actually be a little underrated. Should do pretty well with the Bazookas. Especially at the 100watt x 2 at 2ohm wiring.
Those old school Lanzar Opti's were pretty cool. Very similar to the old school Punch 45. They were "cheater" amps because it was rated at 100watts but would put out double the actual rating. Alot of amps were like that back then.
02-07-2011, 02:24 PM
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Sorry about that...they come 2 to a box and when I went to the warehouse to get that kit someone had bought the case from another audio store although they showed having 2 in stock in inventory. I could have made a dual kit out of 1 4awg kit and 1 8awg kit but it wasn't what you ordered.
Anyway, I found some info on that amp for you after doing some digging:
50watt x 2 at 4ohm
100watt x 2 at 2ohm
200watt x 1 at 4ohm
and from what I read it does make real power or may actually be a little underrated. Should do pretty well with the Bazookas. Especially at the 100watt x 2 at 2ohm wiring.
Those old school Lanzar Opti's were pretty cool. Very similar to the old school Punch 45. They were "cheater" amps because it was rated at 100watts but would put out double the actual rating. Alot of amps were like that back then.
Anyway, I found some info on that amp for you after doing some digging:
50watt x 2 at 4ohm
100watt x 2 at 2ohm
200watt x 1 at 4ohm
and from what I read it does make real power or may actually be a little underrated. Should do pretty well with the Bazookas. Especially at the 100watt x 2 at 2ohm wiring.
Those old school Lanzar Opti's were pretty cool. Very similar to the old school Punch 45. They were "cheater" amps because it was rated at 100watts but would put out double the actual rating. Alot of amps were like that back then.
So, you think I ought to wire the Bazookas in parallel and hook them up to this Lanzar on the lowest gain and bass boost settings? I thought I read somewhere the Bazookas could handle around 100 Watts RMS, which if this amp is underrated, may damage them, no?
So, how do you think I should hook these Bazookas up? Split in series or parallel? I may just play around with both configurations, 25W x 4 @ 4Ohms in series and 100W x 2 @ 2Ohms in parallel.
Last edited by 1SLwLS1; 02-07-2011 at 03:04 PM.
02-07-2011, 05:45 PM
#13
No worries about the wiring kit Ian, trying to keep track of someone else's inventory can be a bitch.
So, you think I ought to wire the Bazookas in parallel and hook them up to this Lanzar on the lowest gain and bass boost settings? I thought I read somewhere the Bazookas could handle around 100 Watts RMS, which if this amp is underrated, may damage them, no?
So, how do you think I should hook these Bazookas up? Split in series or parallel? I may just play around with both configurations, 25W x 4 @ 4Ohms in series and 100W x 2 @ 2Ohms in parallel.
So, you think I ought to wire the Bazookas in parallel and hook them up to this Lanzar on the lowest gain and bass boost settings? I thought I read somewhere the Bazookas could handle around 100 Watts RMS, which if this amp is underrated, may damage them, no?
So, how do you think I should hook these Bazookas up? Split in series or parallel? I may just play around with both configurations, 25W x 4 @ 4Ohms in series and 100W x 2 @ 2Ohms in parallel.
That being said they will need some deadener to keep them from vibrating the sail panel metal and probably the plastic as well.
I would run them split in parallel. 2 ohms per side on each channel and hit the gain about70- 80% with the max boost setting. This is dependant of course on how much bass you are looking for as well.
02-12-2011, 09:45 PM
#14
LOVE those amps! Brings back some memories and in good shape too! WAY underrated. Man those was the days, phoenix M-series, Punch series, Orion HCCA .....I'm tearing up!
02-14-2011, 08:17 AM
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Well I finally got the amp hooked up. It was an all weekend adventure to say the least. Saturday I spent hooking up the remote lead, RCA's, parking brake switch, finding a home for the USB flash drive, and installing the humount that finally showed up. Believe it or not, that took up most of Saturday.
I was attempting to mount the main power fuse block to the passenger fender structure but the steel is too thick for any kind of sheet metal screw. So, for a temporary mount, I utilized some double-sided tape and stuck it on the battery. I then routed the cable through the grommet under the computer and into the car. I then unscrewed the kick panel and un-installed the sail panel and followed the main harness going to the back. I did the same thing for the driver side with the RCA's.
I then printed the Monsoon FAQ so I can find the wires for the rear subs. I ended up just mounting the amp in the t-top tub for the time being. Later, it will go where the spare tire and jack used to reside.
Well, I tied in both the left +'s and hooked up to the left + on the amp, both left -'s and into the amp, right side, etc. Just so we're clear, I cut the wire's coming from the Monsoon harness and taped them off. The speakers are only receiving a signal from the Lanzar amp. So I have the subs in parallel and set to "Stereo" on the amp. I turned the bass boost all the way down and put the gain in the middle. Fired it up and had sound, for a second.
The amp seemed to cut in/out and I noticed the volt meter on the main fuse block wasn't working (I'm 99.9% sure that's because it's not grounded to the chassis). The amp then decided to just cut out entirely. So I looked over everything, the RCA's are secure, speaker wires are tight, power, ground, etc. The amp had the green "OK" light on when it was and wasn't working so something's up somewhere. I am wondering if the switch is on mono, do I have to bridge the left and right channel for it to work properly. I don't know, but it's weird and will take some tweaking to figure it out.
I was attempting to mount the main power fuse block to the passenger fender structure but the steel is too thick for any kind of sheet metal screw. So, for a temporary mount, I utilized some double-sided tape and stuck it on the battery. I then routed the cable through the grommet under the computer and into the car. I then unscrewed the kick panel and un-installed the sail panel and followed the main harness going to the back. I did the same thing for the driver side with the RCA's.
I then printed the Monsoon FAQ so I can find the wires for the rear subs. I ended up just mounting the amp in the t-top tub for the time being. Later, it will go where the spare tire and jack used to reside.
Well, I tied in both the left +'s and hooked up to the left + on the amp, both left -'s and into the amp, right side, etc. Just so we're clear, I cut the wire's coming from the Monsoon harness and taped them off. The speakers are only receiving a signal from the Lanzar amp. So I have the subs in parallel and set to "Stereo" on the amp. I turned the bass boost all the way down and put the gain in the middle. Fired it up and had sound, for a second.
The amp seemed to cut in/out and I noticed the volt meter on the main fuse block wasn't working (I'm 99.9% sure that's because it's not grounded to the chassis). The amp then decided to just cut out entirely. So I looked over everything, the RCA's are secure, speaker wires are tight, power, ground, etc. The amp had the green "OK" light on when it was and wasn't working so something's up somewhere. I am wondering if the switch is on mono, do I have to bridge the left and right channel for it to work properly. I don't know, but it's weird and will take some tweaking to figure it out.
02-14-2011, 10:13 AM
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Looks like I answered my own question with the pics I posted above. Apparently I do need to bridge the speaker wire in Mono (I can't see either side of amp due to mounting so low in t-top tub).
02-14-2011, 11:21 AM
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No go on that idea, it powers both speakers, but only at low volume, if I turn it up, it cuts in and out. I am guessing it is an internal amplifier problem?
NVM, I am an idiot, bridging the channels the way I did wires all (4) of the 4 Ohm VC's in parallel for a 1 Ohm load, which the amp is probably not stable at. I will try both of the following options to see if I can get this working properly.
1. Keep the selector switch in Mono, split the positive/negative output to each speaker (bridged), the negative on that voice coil to the positive on the adjacent and the negative back to ground. This should yield a 4 Ohm load with 2 in series and 2 in parallel.
2. Move the selector switch to Stereo, Move the RCA's to Full Range, wire each speaker in 1 channel with each voice coil in parallel per speaker for a 2 Ohm load per channel. I don't know if the loading is the problem or if there is another issue internally with the amp, but I will try these out and see.
Also, what should I set my crossover at for these? I know on Kee's site it states 39-1500 Hz. FYI, the crossover is in the Kenwood KIV-700 HU with selectable 12db, 18db, or 24db/Octave IIRC.
NVM, I am an idiot, bridging the channels the way I did wires all (4) of the 4 Ohm VC's in parallel for a 1 Ohm load, which the amp is probably not stable at. I will try both of the following options to see if I can get this working properly.
1. Keep the selector switch in Mono, split the positive/negative output to each speaker (bridged), the negative on that voice coil to the positive on the adjacent and the negative back to ground. This should yield a 4 Ohm load with 2 in series and 2 in parallel.
2. Move the selector switch to Stereo, Move the RCA's to Full Range, wire each speaker in 1 channel with each voice coil in parallel per speaker for a 2 Ohm load per channel. I don't know if the loading is the problem or if there is another issue internally with the amp, but I will try these out and see.
Also, what should I set my crossover at for these? I know on Kee's site it states 39-1500 Hz. FYI, the crossover is in the Kenwood KIV-700 HU with selectable 12db, 18db, or 24db/Octave IIRC.
Last edited by 1SLwLS1; 02-14-2011 at 02:03 PM.
02-14-2011, 07:16 PM
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I heard the amp whistling and it would cut in/out while I rotated either the gain or bass boost. I recorded a video, what do ya'll think?
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y19ii4yMUf8
http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=Y19ii4yMUf8
