4l80e w/ 5.3 Help!
#1
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Emmaus, PA
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
4l80e w/ 5.3 Help!
I'm using a 95 4l80e in my mustang project w/ a 5.3. I have a protorque stall converter. I bought the tci 4l80e flexplate thinking it would work for me. I have a gap in between the flexplate and the converter when I install the trans.
Do I need the gm spacer? My concern w/ this is that the starter won't reach far enough? Am I right in that assumption?
I have the pilot spacer installed that came with the flexplate. I could remove it, but I don't think the converter would be fully seated when it slides forward.
Any help would be appreciated.
Do I need the gm spacer? My concern w/ this is that the starter won't reach far enough? Am I right in that assumption?
I have the pilot spacer installed that came with the flexplate. I could remove it, but I don't think the converter would be fully seated when it slides forward.
Any help would be appreciated.
#2
TECH Veteran
iTrader: (7)
which flexplate did you get-the 399754?
thats the one i use, with a converter with the turbo 400/4l80e "snout" on it
then the spacer goes bet the crank and converter snout
not fam with the converter you have, but sometimes you need a washer under the converter pads if there is a minor gap, not ideal but works
that flywheel has a spacer on the back (toward the engine) and the flywheel is a little thicker, makes it correct for the starter-as i remember, the gap from the back of the blosk to the back of the flywheel teeth is roughly 7/16, just going from mem-i have it wrote down some where
does the crank stick out about 1/8" or less past the rear main seal, no fact spacer or extended crank?
how big a gap are we talking about-maybe the converter has rhe longer snout
thats the one i use, with a converter with the turbo 400/4l80e "snout" on it
then the spacer goes bet the crank and converter snout
not fam with the converter you have, but sometimes you need a washer under the converter pads if there is a minor gap, not ideal but works
that flywheel has a spacer on the back (toward the engine) and the flywheel is a little thicker, makes it correct for the starter-as i remember, the gap from the back of the blosk to the back of the flywheel teeth is roughly 7/16, just going from mem-i have it wrote down some where
does the crank stick out about 1/8" or less past the rear main seal, no fact spacer or extended crank?
how big a gap are we talking about-maybe the converter has rhe longer snout
#4
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Emmaus, PA
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
which flexplate did you get-the 399754?
thats the one i use, with a converter with the turbo 400/4l80e "snout" on it
then the spacer goes bet the crank and converter snout
not fam with the converter you have, but sometimes you need a washer under the converter pads if there is a minor gap, not ideal but works
that flywheel has a spacer on the back (toward the engine) and the flywheel is a little thicker, makes it correct for the starter-as i remember, the gap from the back of the blosk to the back of the flywheel teeth is roughly 7/16, just going from mem-i have it wrote down some where
does the crank stick out about 1/8" or less past the rear main seal, no fact spacer or extended crank?
how big a gap are we talking about-maybe the converter has rhe longer snout
thats the one i use, with a converter with the turbo 400/4l80e "snout" on it
then the spacer goes bet the crank and converter snout
not fam with the converter you have, but sometimes you need a washer under the converter pads if there is a minor gap, not ideal but works
that flywheel has a spacer on the back (toward the engine) and the flywheel is a little thicker, makes it correct for the starter-as i remember, the gap from the back of the blosk to the back of the flywheel teeth is roughly 7/16, just going from mem-i have it wrote down some where
does the crank stick out about 1/8" or less past the rear main seal, no fact spacer or extended crank?
how big a gap are we talking about-maybe the converter has rhe longer snout
I don't know. I bought it used and the guy doesn't remember. I tried asking the company but I don't think I got an answer. I can find the p/n on it.
Trending Topics
#8
It sounds like you may have a 4L80E converter that has an LS1 pilot length. The converter pilot is the little round hub that slides into the end of the crankshaft. In order to know for sure, just check the pilot length. You can lay a straightedge across the end of the converter pilot and measure down to the torque converter mounting pads. If it's designed to fit a traditional Chevy SB or BB, it'll measure around 3/16". If it's designed to fit an LS engine, it'll measure around 1/2". If it measures 1/2", just leave the crank spacer out. The 1/4" gap between the converter and flexplate is a little too much. Just go get some 0.100" shims and you'll be fine. It should be 1/8" to 3/16". When I have to shim a converter, I usually bring my calipers to the hardware bin and measure them to make sure they are the same thickness. I like to see them be within 0.001" of each other. Good Luck!
#9
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Emmaus, PA
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
Thanks for the info! I hope it is just the spacer that is messing things up. That seems to be the case, beings the converter does not spin freely since the trans has been bolted to the engine. I'm gonna pull the trans tomorrow most likely to find out.
#10
Staging Lane
Thread Starter
iTrader: (6)
Join Date: Nov 2008
Location: Emmaus, PA
Posts: 74
Likes: 0
Received 0 Likes
on
0 Posts
It sounds like you may have a 4L80E converter that has an LS1 pilot length. The converter pilot is the little round hub that slides into the end of the crankshaft. In order to know for sure, just check the pilot length. You can lay a straightedge across the end of the converter pilot and measure down to the torque converter mounting pads. If it's designed to fit a traditional Chevy SB or BB, it'll measure around 3/16". If it's designed to fit an LS engine, it'll measure around 1/2". If it measures 1/2", just leave the crank spacer out. The 1/4" gap between the converter and flexplate is a little too much. Just go get some 0.100" shims and you'll be fine. It should be 1/8" to 3/16". When I have to shim a converter, I usually bring my calipers to the hardware bin and measure them to make sure they are the same thickness. I like to see them be within 0.001" of each other. Good Luck!
I have a 5/8" "depth" on the converter.