No Crank/DLC Issues
02-05-2011, 03:22 PM
#1
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No Crank/DLC Issues I really some help from some experienced members. I bought my 1996 Trans Am about 3.5 yrs ago and have never been able to pull its codes. About a 1.5yrs ago I began having intermittent starting issues. It wouldn't crank or click, so my immediate response was to unhook the battery and reset the PCM. Low and behold she cranked.
The problem became progressively worse to the point that every time I needed to start my vehicle I had to complete that process. So, I soldered in the appropriate resistors, under the dash, and the problem was fixed(the starting issue that is). Recently, the problem has returned. Also, I notice a fluctuation in the WEATHER/TEMP will often temporarily correct the issue. Another possibly important information is the fact that my alarm hasn't worked in the last 2 or so years and I recently replaced my headliner and I think I failed to reconnect one of the interior lights
, so none of the interior lights function. I want to get the entire VATS system tuned out, but I'm afraid I won't even be able to make the connection to my PCM.
P.S. CIG/ACCY FUSES ARE GOOD AND THERE IS A FUSE, INLINE WITH THE WIRING HARNESS, BELOW MY DASH THAT IS BLOWN, AS WELL AS AN EMPTY SLOT FOR ANOTHER FUSE RIGHT BESIDE IT.
Thanks,
Cody
The problem became progressively worse to the point that every time I needed to start my vehicle I had to complete that process. So, I soldered in the appropriate resistors, under the dash, and the problem was fixed(the starting issue that is). Recently, the problem has returned. Also, I notice a fluctuation in the WEATHER/TEMP will often temporarily correct the issue. Another possibly important information is the fact that my alarm hasn't worked in the last 2 or so years and I recently replaced my headliner and I think I failed to reconnect one of the interior lights
, so none of the interior lights function. I want to get the entire VATS system tuned out, but I'm afraid I won't even be able to make the connection to my PCM.P.S. CIG/ACCY FUSES ARE GOOD AND THERE IS A FUSE, INLINE WITH THE WIRING HARNESS, BELOW MY DASH THAT IS BLOWN, AS WELL AS AN EMPTY SLOT FOR ANOTHER FUSE RIGHT BESIDE IT.
Thanks,
Cody
02-06-2011, 09:52 AM
#2
Is it possible somebody did an OBDI PCM conversion on the car before you got it? Then you would have to use an OBDI scan tool and ID the vehicle as a 95. The starting issue sounds like your BCM is not tripping the starter relay. You can bypass the starter relay and have the VATS turned off in the PCM. Here is link that may be helpfull http://www.shbox.com/1/pass_key.html
02-07-2011, 02:04 PM
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I guess it's possible...I think the guy I bought it from said he had it dyno tuned and I know he made improvements to the tranny as well...I think your right about the BCM, do you think an issue with it could cause a break in the DLC?
02-08-2011, 02:49 PM
#5
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An inline fuse in the harness sounds like something added. It's going to be real hard to tell just what without following the wires out to see where they go. Impossible to know at this point if it might be affecting the DLC.
It also looks like you might have a BCM issue with the lighting problems you describe. It might be affecting VATS, too. Does the security light work?
You could pull your PCM and look at the service number and report back what it is, to see if it might have been converted. If it is OBD-I, then you would need a compatible scanner.
Some numbers you can look for:
93=16159278 OBDI
94=16188051 OBDI
95=16188051 OBDI
96=16214399 OBDII
97=16242921 OBDII
It also looks like you might have a BCM issue with the lighting problems you describe. It might be affecting VATS, too. Does the security light work?
You could pull your PCM and look at the service number and report back what it is, to see if it might have been converted. If it is OBD-I, then you would need a compatible scanner.
Some numbers you can look for:
93=16159278 OBDI
94=16188051 OBDI
95=16188051 OBDI
96=16214399 OBDII
97=16242921 OBDII
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02-24-2011, 03:05 AM
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The problem is more than likely the contactor on top of your steering column it is under the dash about half way down the steering column you will have to remove the cover with the trunk switch on it. Or just find the rod on the side of the steering column and follow it to the contactor. I be willing to bet money thats the problem because mine did the same thing
02-25-2011, 06:38 PM
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The problem is more than likely the contactor on top of your steering column it is under the dash about half way down the steering column you will have to remove the cover with the trunk switch on it. Or just find the rod on the side of the steering column and follow it to the contactor. I be willing to bet money thats the problem because mine did the same thing
02-25-2011, 07:27 PM
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with the DLC issue, are you not getting any power to the scanner/scan tool? or no communication? If all the fuses are good, and there is no power, short to ground sounds likely. if there is no communication with all fuses good, might be your PCM
02-26-2011, 07:50 AM
#14
On the DLC pin 16 bat+
pin 5 grd
pin 4 grd I'd check these
You need to check the PCM service number as Shoebox said OBD1 conversions are real popular on LT1 cars and not just any scan tool will read a '94 - '95 PCM
When you turn the key to run do you hear the fuel pump?
pin 5 grd
pin 4 grd I'd check these
You need to check the PCM service number as Shoebox said OBD1 conversions are real popular on LT1 cars and not just any scan tool will read a '94 - '95 PCM
When you turn the key to run do you hear the fuel pump?
02-26-2011, 03:10 PM
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An inline fuse in the harness sounds like something added. It's going to be real hard to tell just what without following the wires out to see where they go. Impossible to know at this point if it might be affecting the DLC.
It also looks like you might have a BCM issue with the lighting problems you describe. It might be affecting VATS, too. Does the security light work?
You could pull your PCM and look at the service number and report back what it is, to see if it might have been converted. If it is OBD-I, then you would need a compatible scanner.
Some numbers you can look for:
93=16159278 OBDI
94=16188051 OBDI
95=16188051 OBDI
96=16214399 OBDII
97=16242921 OBDII
It also looks like you might have a BCM issue with the lighting problems you describe. It might be affecting VATS, too. Does the security light work?
You could pull your PCM and look at the service number and report back what it is, to see if it might have been converted. If it is OBD-I, then you would need a compatible scanner.
Some numbers you can look for:
93=16159278 OBDI
94=16188051 OBDI
95=16188051 OBDI
96=16214399 OBDII
97=16242921 OBDII
02-26-2011, 04:02 PM
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Yea...I'll explain what happens. I go to my car, unlock the door with the key, get in, insert key into ignition, everything in the car turns on like it were all operating as it should, I turn the key and nothing. SOMETIMES I hear a slight click in the engine bay. The alarm system hasn't worked in 1.5 years, you think this has been the issue and does anyone have some advise on removing an aftermarket alarm? When the alarm did function properly it would set itself, even if I hadn't. Any advise is considered and appreciated. I want to love my F-Body again. Cause right now I wanna drive it off a cliff!! HAHA!
02-26-2011, 06:36 PM
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Observation: I notice that once I cycle the ground connection(batt) to reset the PCM, there is a time frame where I can start, stop and restart my engine without having to reset my PCM to do so. There is definitely a tie between when the PCM begins to throw codes(SES) and when I can no longer stop and immediately restart my engine.
02-27-2011, 06:34 AM
#20
Yea...I'll explain what happens. I go to my car, unlock the door with the key, get in, insert key into ignition, everything in the car turns on like it were all operating as it should, I turn the key and nothing. SOMETIMES I hear a slight click in the engine bay. The alarm system hasn't worked in 1.5 years, you think this has been the issue and does anyone have some advise on removing an aftermarket alarm? When the alarm did function properly it would set itself, even if I hadn't. Any advise is considered and appreciated. I want to love my F-Body again. Cause right now I wanna drive it off a cliff!! HAHA!
You are on the right track with a malfuctioning alarm and a VTD with previous
problems you need to get rid of or repair either or both. Sent you a pm.