Can i bypass removing the valve body to get to my clutches
#1
Can i bypass removing the valve body to get to my clutches
I have the 4l60e 1998 trans am. Im very new to the concept of actually trying to tear into a transmission. $$ has hit me as a factor and being new to this as with most things I belive the less I pull apart the less can go wrong putting it back together. No question about it my clutch disk are bad 3 free dios and monitoring with a scanner. So this isnt the question.This however is, Does the servo need to be removed along with the valve body to get to the packs?( are any pins going through or somthing that would cause a snag) or can I start with going strait down the center leaving the pan on except just enough to drain the fluid & filter change.Get to the packs and get out.
I recently bought the car The wrong fluid was in it from the dealer on a fresh tune up. Spent all of my big bucks on this car ASIS drove 30 miles towards home and the damage is done.lol Ive been done in good but the car ran perfect till the fluid burnt them up(test drive was fine)2nd TA I know how they should feel when you get on them and it checked out Aok, ran good for 10 min of beating on it for a test drive. The dealer is not taking credit ive owned the car less than 24 hours and want to be driving by the time the weeks over.
I recently bought the car The wrong fluid was in it from the dealer on a fresh tune up. Spent all of my big bucks on this car ASIS drove 30 miles towards home and the damage is done.lol Ive been done in good but the car ran perfect till the fluid burnt them up(test drive was fine)2nd TA I know how they should feel when you get on them and it checked out Aok, ran good for 10 min of beating on it for a test drive. The dealer is not taking credit ive owned the car less than 24 hours and want to be driving by the time the weeks over.
#4
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I have the 4l60e 1998 trans am. Im very new to the concept of actually trying to tear into a transmission. $$ has hit me as a factor and being new to this as with most things I belive the less I pull apart the less can go wrong putting it back together. No question about it my clutch disk are bad 3 free dios and monitoring with a scanner. So this isnt the question.This however is, Does the servo need to be removed along with the valve body to get to the packs?( are any pins going through or somthing that would cause a snag) or can I start with going strait down the center leaving the pan on except just enough to drain the fluid & filter change.Get to the packs and get out.
I recently bought the car The wrong fluid was in it from the dealer on a fresh tune up. Spent all of my big bucks on this car ASIS drove 30 miles towards home and the damage is done.lol Ive been done in good but the car ran perfect till the fluid burnt them up(test drive was fine)2nd TA I know how they should feel when you get on them and it checked out Aok, ran good for 10 min of beating on it for a test drive. The dealer is not taking credit ive owned the car less than 24 hours and want to be driving by the time the weeks over.
I recently bought the car The wrong fluid was in it from the dealer on a fresh tune up. Spent all of my big bucks on this car ASIS drove 30 miles towards home and the damage is done.lol Ive been done in good but the car ran perfect till the fluid burnt them up(test drive was fine)2nd TA I know how they should feel when you get on them and it checked out Aok, ran good for 10 min of beating on it for a test drive. The dealer is not taking credit ive owned the car less than 24 hours and want to be driving by the time the weeks over.
#5
Taking out the input drum and the reverse/input drum can be done without removing the valve body, but it is a little tricky for a novice. The servo needs to be out, and unhooking the band from the anchor is the tricky part. Once off of the anchor you will need to walk out the band before removing the drums so as not to tear the band up. Install in the reverse order, but keep the band in the anchor while reassembling, otherwise you will not have 2nd & 4th gears.
#6
Thank you guys for the help. After pricing out a few things. It would cost as much as a shop, to do twice if I mess up. Im gonna have to set on it till the funds build up. Im also wanting a stall and gears the same as I had in my old TA and I know I would be better off getting one built right with 24,000 warranty and beating it up all day without remorse.
About the dealership\hole in the wall car lot. They refuse to take it back sold ASIS. Im still waiting on the plates . Dont know if I would cause once I get it fixed it is pristine condition virgin to mods looks like they didnt even touch the radio no tears good dash alot of little things are right in it that makes it worth holding onto for me. So they found the right sucker.I did however take the liberty to rate them 20 times on google acting as diffrent people and every other place they advertise on the internet.I wrote the BBB about it. Not really much else I can do within (LEGAL) limits.
About the dealership\hole in the wall car lot. They refuse to take it back sold ASIS. Im still waiting on the plates . Dont know if I would cause once I get it fixed it is pristine condition virgin to mods looks like they didnt even touch the radio no tears good dash alot of little things are right in it that makes it worth holding onto for me. So they found the right sucker.I did however take the liberty to rate them 20 times on google acting as diffrent people and every other place they advertise on the internet.I wrote the BBB about it. Not really much else I can do within (LEGAL) limits.