absintheisfun

I went and picked up a pilot bearing for my project, and I gave the Oreilly's guy the GM part number and this is what he gave me:


In looking online, all of the bearings I see with this part number have internal needle bearings like this:


Given that the one I got does not have needle bearings, should I be concerned?

Darkman

iTrader: (2)

What motor? What GM Part number?

Gordon0652

iTrader: (4)

That would be a pilot bushing, not bearing.

O2Form

Either one will work

RARON455

iTrader: (35)

That is a bushing, They have used bushings since the 50s, however this century we have advanced and use bearings. You will always hear the debate over bearing vs. bushing. Here are a few facts, the bushing is softer and will wear before the input shaft of your trans, that is the only pro of the bushing. it is a fact that the ID of the bushing is larger than its bearing counterpart, meaning the bearing will provide more stability to input shaft movement. the bearing was installed by GM to provide multiple years of trouble free service. The bushing is ok if you r&r your trans regularly, but if you dont, Then put the bearing back in, take care installing your trans, and you dont have to worry about it. You can buy the bearing at atozone for like 13 bucks, you prolly paid about 4 for that bushing,,,theres another clue.

absintheisfun

Thanks for the info. I'll go pick up the bearing.

kenp

iTrader: (9)

Plenty of people have had the bearing grenade on them. The bronze bushing will work fine and you can't screw it up when you reinstall the transmission. I had 2 bearings disintegrate. I run the bushing now.

O2Form

Yep my thoughts exactly.

01ssreda4

iTrader: (96)

I have seen a stock bearing literally grind itself up after 100k normal street miles under stock trans/clutch conditions. Perhaps 100k is about their usable lifespan.

Gordon0652

iTrader: (4)

Only problem with bushing is you might get 10kmi out of it?

ghettocruiser

iTrader: (17)

Bushing recently saved my bacon after a major foul up on my part. I didnt have one of the dowel pins between the trans and bell housing engaged, which resulted in a trans that could rotate on the one dowel that was engaged. Instead of blowing the bearing apart and tearing up my input, it wallowed out the bushing until it started to make noise, prompting me to tear it apart. Ide rather replace that bushing 10x than replace my input shaft.

Of course...had I not screwed up when I put the trans back together it wouldnt have been an issue either way. When I got my car, and changed the clutch, the previous owner had a stock bearing in it...and it was rusted all to heck and was crunch. Thats what made me go to a bushing in the first place.

J.

O2Form

That bushing is oil impregnanted and should last the life of the clutch.

5.3LJimmy

iTrader: (10)

I would use the bushing. The input shaft is only spinning inside of it while the clutch is disengaged anyway, so it's not like it's constantly being used.

O2Form

The bushing or bearing should last a very long time. If they are failing its usually because the transmission is NOT centered with the engine because of misaglinment. The manufacturers don't always gets things spot on and iff the pins are drilled a little off and the holes are a little off it can add up to ALOT. This will wear the pilot bearing out fast, I've run into this a few times.

brooknasty

iTrader: (1)

the clutch pilot bearing with needle bearings works fine if the clutch input shaft is lined up correctly, lasts longer than 100k miles also.

kenp

iTrader: (9)

Folks, the Keep It Simple Stupid principle is at play here.

There isn't anything that can go wrong with the bronze bushing. IF there is a problem, the bushing will sacrifice itself whereas the bearing will chew up your input shaft and spit it out.

The other, very expensive option is a delrin bushing.

C/Performance

A Tremec trans uses a tapered roller bearing on the input shaft and a pilot bearing (when the bell housing is properly aligned) and will hold the input much more accurately and stable than a bushing. For example the Muncie input shaft uses a ball bearing front bearing which by nature allows more lateral movement and a bushing is better suited because they last virtually forever. Also the Muncie input shaft is not case hardened to the same specs as newer transmissions and the pilot bearing can in some cases wear the tip of the input shaft. Some of the newer Muncie aftermarket input shafts are hardened but which ones I can't say. The .005" specification is necessary for both applications but a Muncie or any transmission with a ball bearing style front bearing will tolerate much more of an out of alignment situation than a tapered roller bearing.Tremec recommends the bearing.If you buy a Keisler, TKO the warranty is voided if a roller bearing is not installed.I would use the needle bearing, add a little tab of grease and you will be fine for your application.