James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

So I gave up on dealing with the 93 ECM and Opti and ordered the EFI Connections harness and conversion package. (Thanks Mike)

I picked up a used LS1 PCM and a set of coils from a local board member.
I'm going to pick up a 96-97 timing cover with the WP blocked.

This is going in my 93 Firehawk. http://www.cardomain.com/ride/229715...irehawk/page-6
My ATI dampener has provisions for the reluctor ring, so I'm set there.
I needed a stronger transmission anyhow, it sounds like going to built a 96+ 4L60e is the way to go.
(which also means my days of fighting with governor weights and springs are over )

I've read though most of the conversion threads I found here and gathered
some useful information, I thought I'd start a new one and fish for more
while I wait for the weather to warm up so I can go work on the car again.

camar0corey

iTrader: (22)

I tore my pan gasket, but nothing that some Permatex didn't fix. I had a hell of a time getting the factory key out of the crank. For some reason I had to extend the wires for the speedometer and reverse lockout I think?(t56) My data port didn't make it to the factory location, so I'm not sure if I did something retarded or what for those two issues to have occurred.

Are you going mail order tune, mail tune to drive to the dyno, or towing to the dyno tune? Maybe once again I am just the unlucky one, but I had that huge issue where the mail order tune would barely keep the car running.

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

I think I'll do this one locally, the days of getting away with a mail order
startup tune are pretty much over for this build. Fortunately, it's a lot easier
to find a local who can tune an LS1 PCM than it was to find one who
could tune a 93LT1. I need to talk to Dlove once I get closer to having this ready.

The biggest problem with custom builds is that it's tough to get a good
startup tune so you can check things out before you take it to the shop;
but without a startup tune, you run the risk of finding out that something's
broken or not ready once you get loaded on the dyno (Sorry Ed).

BizZzatch350

iTrader: (33)

James I will pm you when I get home, Tiago and I did the swap on my 93

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

Thanks I didn't even think to ask T

qc97z

iTrader: (9)

Just ask whatever questions you have. Several of us now have it, with setups from stock to wild and crazy. It's a pretty straight-forward install.
It would be a good idea to get a decent start-up tune just for your first start/debugging, but then tow to dyno if you can.
If your setup is stock, EFI Connection has initial configurations on their site for downloading.

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

I think I found answers to all of my questions in other threads, I was just
fishing for "gotcha"s and "if I had to do it all over again, I would do this differently"s.
You're right though, the install seems pretty strait-forward overall.

My setup is definitely not stock. (Forged 383, 23x/24x HR, LE-Dart heads, 4000stall)
There will be a startup tune, but it won't be mail-order unless someone wants
to take the Ed Wright LT1 tune I have and convert it.

BizZzatch350

iTrader: (33)

On the ATI super dampner, use a GM bolt. The ARP Thunder listed was slightly longer and caused a lot of issues. Use as many GM parts and you will be fine, most my issues came from after market parts. I am using the TPIS billet cover and double roller chain on mine.

qc97z

iTrader: (9)

Get ahold of Speed Inc. They tuned mine mail order before dyno, and my setup is a good example of "wild".
They're now familiar with the EFI Connection setup, It's possible they could tune your LS1 pcm based off of your Ed Wright tune.

AChotrod

iTrader: (17)

Jimmys Back!!!! Missed ya man!!

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

I appreciate the advice, I've been running the 12pt arp bolt for about 900 miles without issue.
Granted, i didn't buy it (or anything else) from Thunder.
It's in a forged Eagle crank that I had balanced and keyed as part of my build.
Yeah, they do awesome work. A bit of a long haul from KC though.
But as far as a mail-order goes, that might be an option.
I do a lot more casual lurking than posting anymore. Life's been real busy these last 2-3 years.

MattSapp95_T/A

iTrader: (35)

Install is pretty easy... Just take your time....

I am selling Extended MSD wires for it if you decide to mount the coils on the frame rails..(or anywhere else for that matter)

matt

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

I was going to put them on the valve covers, but I have tall Cantons, so I will either have to do some custom bracket work or put them elsewhere.
I thought that this was a neat idea for a frame-rail mount.
http://cgi.ebay.com/ebaymotors/LS1-L...Q5fAccessories

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

The parts arrived this week, so I got started yesterday even though it was only 34* out.
I noticed that the kit comes with install tips, but no actual instructions.
http://www.eficonnection.com/coilper...ationGuide.pdf
Fortunately, the install isn't complicated and most steps seem obvious.

One thing that I noticed is that the trigger on the cam has no provision for early LT1 splined cams.
There is a provision for 95+ long-pin cams.
I guess on early Lt1s, the mounting bolts are responsible for timing accuracy.
As long as the trigger never moves, I guess that's ok.

I'd be interested to see how this works out for timing sets that were altered with bushing sets to degree the cam.
(Mine happened to be within 1/2*, so I left it; I have had cams as far off as 4*)

Oh, and I decided to go with the EFI Connections coil mount after all.
Having them mounted low or under the cowl just didn't feel right.

mean_greenz28

Do you have any pictures of the passenger side coils mounted? I'm considering doing this conversion also. Ive got a 396 in a 94 OBDI car and its hard to find anyone who will look at tuning it. Whats everyone thing of their setup so far? And speed inc in chicago is getting good at tuning these setups?

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

I don't; but here's someone else with a similar setup.

S10Wildside

The installation guide and troubleshooting tips completely cover the installation of the hardware and sensors. It is true that there are no step by step, illustrated, set of procedure(s) because removing the optispark, removing/reinstalling the crank hub, and removing/reinstalling the timing cover is straight-forward service manual information. GM torque specs are also available in the service manual.

What he means is that the back side of the cam reluctor is not splined. However, it installs in early cams without modification. This was intentional. Our test engine was a 1994 LT1 with splined camshaft. The splines are specific to driving the early optispark only and unrelated to the installation of a 24x conversion.

What he means here is that there is a fourth hole for the cam dowell to pass through. However, the installation guide explains that 95-97 LT1 camshafts must tap in the dowell so that it does not interfere with the cam reluctor, housing, or sensor. (The same is true of the LT4 hot cam installations in early LT1 engines).

The new three cam sprocket bolts hold the cam sprocket in place. Same toque specs as the originals and the installation guide notes that loctite is important (as with any cam sprocket installation). "Timing accuracy" comes from the crank reluctor and not the cam reluctor. However, the cam reluctor does indicate the engine stroke (intake or exhaust) for startup. Adjusting the cam reluctor will only affect ignition timing if the reluctor is so far out of phase that the PCM thinks the engine is on the opposite stroke. Not an issue for LT1 installations, but a possibility for SBC installations where the cam signal has 360 degrees of adjusment through the distributor.

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

Thanks S10; I wasn't complaining, just sharing my thoughts.

The only other issues I ran into was that the harness is absolutely beautiful and perfect
in every way except that it has a 94+ IAC connector.
I'm just going to swap IAC housings on my TB and call it good.

You guys should consider fabbing up a batch of custom 12" MSD wires with 90*
boots, I bet you'd sell a lot of them. After looking at my options, I'm just going to put
LS2 boots on my MSD wires and shorten them as needed. I would have bought them from
you in an instant if they were available.

S10Wildside

Agreed. And no problem. If I don't clarify, someone is going to misunderstand and say "I heard the 24x conversion won't work with early LT1 engines because of the camshaft..." I wish I could somehow stop the rumor mill that says a double row timing set cannot be used with the 24x conversion. I don't think that one will ever die.

Sorry, bad assumption there during the harness build.

The problem is the cost of tooling. The MSD hand crimpers work fine for a custom job here and there, but the crimp quality is so-so. I wouldn't put my name on a set of wires crimped with those hand tools. The alternative is to bring in a Packard/Delphi pneumatic press and the two different die sets. Several thousand dollars into leasing that. Several thousand more into owning that. No way.

James Montigny

iTrader: (13)

Good point.
EDIT: I wonder if having a company produce them for you in bulk would be an option?

But yeah, I am very happy with the product you delivered.
Ed Wright is working on a startup tune for me so I should have a vid to post in the near future.
If all goes well, we'll have dyno results shortly thereafter.