mpcv2000

iTrader: (1)

Hello.
I have bought a Fluidampr # 740101 "neutral balance" for my 1994 LT1 OBD-I and I have a question about the woodruff key.

Is it a big deal if I don't put one ?
I think they suggest to use a key for timing marks on the Fluidampr to be accurate. Am I right ?

































Also they say I should use a shim 0.093" since I'm not OBD-II but if I put the stock Balancer deside the Fluidampr they have the same height ( where the belt rides ) .















Looks like I will need to find a thick strong washer because the hub is different then a stock one .









Last question.

Is it me or the shoulder will hit my Optispark ?












Any help and suggestions will be appreciated.

jaycenk

iTrader: (1)

Yes key is to be align the damper to be able to use the timing marks but LT1's don't have a timing tab but there are ones avalible.
As for the the hub just buy a small block chevy ballancer bolt kit with the washer.
The only way to tell if it will rub is to install it. Unless someone knows if that one wont work.

speedracer2536

iTrader: (15)

Man that looks like its def. gonna hit..

speedracer2536

iTrader: (15)

maybe there is a dif. kit if your running the GMPP manifold with the rear mount dist. ditching the opti.. IDK just throwing around that idea..

mpcv2000

iTrader: (1)

I'll take a better look at it tonight.

quicksilver383

iTrader: (3)

Follow the mfg's instructions. That shim is most likely the same thickness as the CPS reluctor. Use the key, you dont want the hub to move, theirs may not be as tight of a press fit as the stocker.

mpcv2000

iTrader: (1)

Ok so back with my shopping list.

1 spare crank oil seal ( in case ) .
2 type of woodruff keys
1 thick washer to tight the hub.
1 cover from I don't know what that I will cut to make the 0.093" shim , cover has 0.100" so no big deal I think.















Red neck style but it does the trick..















Washer pushed in.








Woodruff key in









So finally it does clear , the hub is made to clear the lower vent fitting even if my Optispark is the Billet one from MSD .







The big thick washer fits into the hub perfectly.








I may have to shim my bracket for the alternator since the hub is a bit more out then before but we'll see .

Car runs fine and smooth.






I have to thanks the machine shop to let me use their puller kit.
I haven't ask for it they just say use that it will make your life easier and yes it did.

noice

Did you use a Damper Installation Tool? There should be a press fit on the Harmonic Balancer, keys are nice of the direction if the moment (torque) is in one constant direction such as a fan motor. However if the torque pulses alternate such as a the twisting of a crankshaft and harmonic balancer couple then the key doesn't work as well. You really need a press fit, otherwise that balancer will abuse the key from both sides and don't be surprised if the timing chain develops excessive slack damage to the crank gear.

How much was the press fit? I got a used Fluidampr that had a hub that had been oversized I had to junk it.

Alignment marks are irrelevant on an LT1 with a stock style distributor. Even so I like them.

Sucks about having to make the shim, ATI's come with it, I have a spare one I didn't use, and I'm sure others on here do as well.

I bought an one of the ARP http://www.jegs.com/i/ARP/070/234-2501/10002/-1 Harmonic Damper bolt and washer. I like how large the bolt head is.

mpcv2000

iTrader: (1)

I did have a tool , the press fit was tight ( like the stock one ) and the shim was suppose to be in the box but didn't get it so I made my own.

mpcv2000

iTrader: (1)

One last thing about this.
The machine shop lent me a tool ( puller/installer ) for my hub and it was a different tool then the expensive GM ( Kent Moore J-39046 ) @ $300.00+.
It worked perfectly so I wrote down the part number : OTC 4531 , called my local parts store and the tool was $100.00 CDN so I bought one for future need , the tool came with lots of different adaptors and bolts so this is good for many different application too so I thought you guys may want to write down the number I'm sure it is less expensive in the US then Canada.
A must have if you do your own work and not too expensive.

greenZ96

iTrader: (6)

Thats a nice puller, I wrote the part number down incase mine breaks. I bought it in a pinch and its a cheapo

mpcv2000

iTrader: (1)

I just want to update this subject not to confused anyone if you use the search and find this thread about "Harmonic balancer and or Aftermarket one's" .
# 4531-23 in the kit needs to be modified if you want to put a stock Dampner back on.
This puller kit will work to remove a OEM ( stock ) balancer and install a aftermarket one but you'll need to modify it to put back a stock one.

I'm not a professional mechanic and I work by myself so all my technical help comes from , filtering the infos from the web with what I google and forums ( like here ) so maybe other people are like me and it can help them .





I cut the head of the stock OEM 7/16" -20 balancer bolt to then weld it to the 4531-23 adaptor in the kit to extend it to make it fit perfectly the LT1 5.7L motor like we have but 1/2 the price of the GM tool + the kit will fit many other applications ( that I don't need but still.. )
















With this extra lenght now we can screw all the way down the crankshaft and with the supplied bearing plate push the stock hub back on.












































For people wondering , Left is a stock 1995 Z28 motor and Right is a slighty modified one I just removed from my 89 Mazda to put a new ..setup.. .

96silverram

iTrader: (12)

Nice info on the kit. I wrote down the # for future reference.

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

What keys are those and where did you get them. I have this same balancer.

And why did you use the shim? It looked like everything was aligned without it. I'll have to check it out for myself today.

mpcv2000

iTrader: (1)

I went to the place where they put my motor together and they gave me 2 different wood ruff keys ( just in case ).
I used the shim because I was not OBDII ( as the instruction says ) .
I have over 5000 KM so far and "0" issue with the new setup.

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

Thanx for the heads up. Found this also that says the same thing:

http://www.go-fast.org/z28/damper.html

Pepboys doesn't have the keys so gonna try Ace.

BTW, your damper didn't come with a shim? Mine did when I got about 10 years ago. Did you get yours used?

mpcv2000

iTrader: (1)

I bought mine brand new but the shim was missing.
They did send me a shim at no charge but it was too late I had made one and the dampner was already installed when I received it.

95mysticta

iTrader: (4)

Great info man! Have you gotten it to the track yet to see what it does? Must be a blast having that stroker in that light rx7! So far mine has been running well just some ignition issues but other then that motor wise its mint.

mpcv2000

iTrader: (1)

I have ( as of August 2011 ) about 6000KM with the new setup and "0" issue.
I managed 31 miles per gallon ( 8.75L per 100 KM ) on a few highway trips I did.

I've been to the track only once ( Spring time ) and I manage 12 Flat at 117.60 MPH.
I'm pretty sure a better driver will go mid to high 11.

Glad to see your car is running fine too.

Rob94hawk

iTrader: (1)

You know what I just realized, I'm running a Rollmaster double roller. Anyone else with the Fluidampr?