Road Racing - Critique my mods (susp,wheels, brakes, tires)

I figured I should post this in here to get the best possible feedback because if it could survive the road course then it could survive anywhere :D

Overall, I'm just trying to build my car to perform better in all areas be it drag strip, road course, or on the street. I want to be able to drive it anywhere, have fun at the track, and drive home. Please keep that in mind :)

I want to go with a 2pc or 3pc forged lightweight wheel. 19" all around with 10" wide fronts and 11-13" wide rears. The rear widths will depend on if I decide to tub it, custom fender flares, or just keep it stock. These will be somewhat of deep dish with 1 1/2-2" lip on the front and 3" lip on the rears.

I want to fit the new ctsv brembo brakes on all 4 corners (6 piston front, 4piston rear)

As for tires, I'm not exactly sure what are good all-around tires. I am thinking of Michelin ps2's though....

Suspension will mainly consist of koni/strano springs/watts link.

Lmk what you think! I can not wait to get this thing on a road course and have some fun, even with all stock parts :D

19" is useless in both road racing and drag racing in these cars, 18" is the largest you should go. Just because you have 6 piston front 4 piston rear doesn't mean it'll work well...especially when it's not made for the car. Stock with good pads, rotors, and fluid is more than enough. Everything else is fine

19" is useless in both road racing and drag racing in these cars, 18" is the largest you should go. Just because you have 6 piston front 4 piston rear doesn't mean it'll work well...especially when it's not made for the car. Stock with good pads, rotors, and fluid is more than enough. Everything else is fine
What he said...

Not to mention that a fixed caliper on a c-clip axle will ultimately lead to a dead pedal due to pad knockback when your pushing your car hard around a track and you need them the most.

I'll admit I chose the wheel dia. and these brakes solely based on how I want the car to look :D There's got to be some advantage of these brakes over stock, right? I don't want to do just the front brake swap like some have did on here because from what I picked up, it will be a very unbalanced setup. Then there's the nose dive. I can see how I'd be better off upgrading the brakes like you suggested instead of that. I just figured doing the brake upgrade on all 4 would be better for performance all while looking killer :)

Will the 19"s be that bad on the track? Could you shed some more light on that please? Am I sacrificing a LOT between 18" to 19" wheels? That's the only thing I've been deadset on is doing 19" wheels on it :( The car should be making some serious power once I get the twin turbo kit on it, should be at 500-550rwhp. At the same time its staying a full weight street car...

The ideal rim size for an fbody on a road course is 17" IMO.. Most tire options, not too heavy, good sidewall size, ect. Going to 18's wouldn't be too big of a detriment to performance, but with 19's your really dropping to too small of a sidewall to maximize any performance potential of a good tire.

As far as upgrading only the front brakes, it doesn't really upset the balance of the car too much, and a lot can be said about ditching the crappy PBR 2 piston setup that is so flimsy it will never produce a proper pedal feel and is prone to spreading. They are good for the street, and for light track duty, but they just don't hold up to track abuse.. I spread my C5 calipers in 2 weekends of HPDE's..

I upgraded my fronts to Wilwood 4-pistons with decently aggressive pads and the rears are running nothing more than the stock caliper and aggressive street pads. When I go to the track, I swap in some DTC-70's or some Polymatrix A race pads up front and run it hard. The brake balance is good, the chassis never seems to upset under hard brakes and trust me when I say that it is night and day better than even the C5 setup with race pads.

Besides, there is no point in upgrading the rears to a fixed caliper unless your willing to do a C-Clip elimination to your rear.. Unless of course you like pad knockback.

Well the rear brake upgrade dilemma will be solved with a mwc 9". Even then, I'm not sure the brakes will still perform at their best, hopefully it works out somehow after I get them on the car.

From what I've heard, going with a 4-piston setup in the rear can cause problems by shifting bias to the rear, and making the car unstable during braking. You'd be better off just changing the front calipers, and getting good pads, rotors and fluid to match. Stay away from cross-drilled rotors, as they can and will crack around the holes in the rotor, and they run hotter and will not stop as well as a quality blank rotor. Also, I've heard the 4-piston '04-'07 CTS-V calipers are better for track use than the '09-'10 6-piston calipers.

The biggest wheel I'd go with is 18". I have 19s on the car now, but I will be swapping to a lighter 18" wheel soon. If you're doing the CTS-V brake swap, you'll need 18" wheels anyway, they won't fit under 17s without modification.

I see what you're saying and 18s it is! Are the c6z06 brakes any good, front and rear? I remember seeing a trans am on gmhtp with front and rear calipers of a c6z06 on a 12bolt rear.

the only reason i have a set of 18s is because its getting harder and harder to find used race tires in 17. 18s, everyone has them now.

All I can say is I hope you have deep pockets - big brakes front and rear, 9" rear, all the suspension goodies AND twin turbos? This will be a MORE than full weight f-body with the addition of all that stuff...the only way you will keep that reliable on a road course is with a lot of money, and even then, it won't be competitive (although it seems like you just want a fun car to drive). The weight will kill any brake setup, especially if you use them to haul the car down from the speeds that excessive amounts of power can attain. The final bill will be in the tens of thousands of dollars, and still won't be in the same league as the C6ZO6 you want to source the brakes from.

I may be raining on your parade, but you need to be realistic here - heavy car + lots of power + road course = not a good combination.

Ok, well maybe a better way to approach this is by starting with the power I want to make? I know the max I want to push the stock motor to with boost is 550rwhp. The last thing I want is a car that makes a lot of power but isn't controllable! I can make more power than I'll ever need with the APS twin turbo kit. To be worth even installing, I need at least 500rwhp. Otherwise, I'm better off saving $4k and doing a basic h/c swap!

Awhile ago, I wanted to know how to keep this car safe to drive with that kind of power. Koni/Strano springs was suggested as the best solution for a street/track car. What direction should I be going in if I want to be in the same a league as a c6z? I hate to say it like that honestly, but handling like a c6z isn't a bad goal!

It never will handle like a C6Z - the weight is a huge problem to overcome, but not impossible. Adding the plumbing for a turbo kit will only make that worse, and the weight will be over the nose. The C6Z is a smaller car with IRS and a lot of power - having driven one on a road course made it very apparent that it is in a league that an f-body will never really be in. An f-body can be made to handle pretty well, but you can only do so much.

Let me put it to you this way - the driving school I was at used a 2010 Camaro for a pace car. With me (a complete rookie on a road course) in the C6ZO6 and the Camaro driven by an instructor, I found it hard to keep up unless we were on the straights, and even then, it wasn't like I was pulling on him like he threw out a boat anchor. When I asked the instructor what he could do in the ZO6 vs. the Camaro, he said he would be about 15 seconds faster in the ZO6 than the Camaro, and that course took about 2 minutes to navigate. That's a HUGE difference. Not apples to apples since a 4th gen f-body wasn't involved, but the difference was impressive none the less.

If you are serious about road course work, the power won't be needed...at least not right away. It will only make you find all of the other weak points sooner, and probably most all of them at once (especially the brakes). The stock motor can last at 500 RWHP, but you'll be on borrowed time, even with a spot-on tune, especially when you are flogging on it for extended amounts of time (not just blasts down the quarter mile).

What's your experience level when it comes to a road course or AutoX? It's a lot easier to learn to drive a slow car at the limit than tame a fast car spewing 500+whp right out of the gate.

The struts, springs, and watts link are all good to go. I'd suggest the hollow sways and picking up a set of track dedicated wheels too. The "deep dish 19's" might look good, but running a staggered wheel set up is going to under-steer like a bastard. Running a balanced wheel setup is far more preferable. I started on a 245F 275R set up and that sucked. I then went to 275's on all corners which was a lot faster, more predictable, and stable. Back in December I picked up a set of 315's to run on all four corners this season and am quite looking forward to it. ;)

Ok, well maybe a better way to approach this is by starting with the power I want to make? I know the max I want to push the stock motor to with boost is 550rwhp. The last thing I want is a car that makes a lot of power but isn't controllable! I can make more power than I'll ever need with the APS twin turbo kit. To be worth even installing, I need at least 500rwhp. Otherwise, I'm better off saving $4k and doing a basic h/c swap!

Awhile ago, I wanted to know how to keep this car safe to drive with that kind of power. Koni/Strano springs was suggested as the best solution for a street/track car. What direction should I be going in if I want to be in the same a league as a c6z? I hate to say it like that honestly, but handling like a c6z isn't a bad goal!

It's a lot easier to start off with a lower-powered car. Improving your driving ability - making the driver faster - is more important in the beginning than making the car faster.

It sounds like you and I have similar goals - a weekend driver/track day car. I've been focusing on removing "easy" weight from my car. I don't want to gut it, but there's still plenty of stuff to remove and still have it look nice. You can also use lighter parts in place of factory pieces (fiberglass or carbon fiber hood, etc.) Weight reduction can improve all areas of a car's performance - acceleration, braking, and handling.

F-bodies will never handle like a C6Z06, or any modern Corvette for that matter. F-bodies can be made to handle well, though, far better than they did from the factory. Like I said, the driver is the most important factor. Go to a driving school, do some HPDE events, really get a feel for how your car handles. As you learn your car and get more comfortable, you'll drive faster. Then you can start adding power.

This is very good advice coming from Skorpion317 and MeentSS02..

The power goals are good and all, but learn how to drive the car first, then work on suspension, then work on adding power.. In that order.. Brakes would be the FIRST thing I would address though. Good brakes can create a lot of confidence, and a confident driver is more often than not a faster driver.

What's your experience level when it comes to a road course or AutoX? It's a lot easier to learn to drive a slow car at the limit than tame a fast car spewing 500+whp right out of the gate.

The struts, springs, and watts link are all good to go. I'd suggest the hollow sways and picking up a set of track dedicated wheels too. The "deep dish 19's" might look good, but running a staggered wheel set up is going to under-steer like a bastard. Running a balanced wheel setup is far more preferable. I started on a 245F 275R set up and that sucked. I then went to 275's on all corners which was a lot faster, more predictable, and stable. Back in December I picked up a set of 315's to run on all four corners this season and am quite looking forward to it. ;)

I'm a rookie and never been on road course. Up til now Ive done nothin but drag racing. I'm just glad I didn't dive into a drag racing suspension because I truly want to get to DRIVE the car. I'll still do plenty of drag racing but I don't want the car to be built that way only.

I'm glad you brought up the staggered tire setup. I was planning on doing 275-295 fronts and 315 or larger rears. I never thought of how it'll effect handling. 19"s for show and 18"-17"s for the track sounds really good. Any recommendations for good track wheels and tires? What concerns me is things like alignment and suspension adjustment every time I swap out the wheels. Should I be concerned with that at all? I do like the idea alot though, this way I can run MUCH better tires for the track and keep the street tires for daily driving.


It's a lot easier to start off with a lower-powered car. Improving your driving ability - making the driver faster - is more important in the beginning than making the car faster.

It sounds like you and I have similar goals - a weekend driver/track day car. I've been focusing on removing "easy" weight from my car. I don't want to gut it, but there's still plenty of stuff to remove and still have it look nice. You can also use lighter parts in place of factory pieces (fiberglass or carbon fiber hood, etc.) Weight reduction can improve all areas of a car's performance - acceleration, braking, and handling.

F-bodies will never handle like a C6Z06, or any modern Corvette for that matter. F-bodies can be made to handle well, though, far better than they did from the factory. Like I said, the driver is the most important factor. Go to a driving school, do some HPDE events, really get a feel for how your car handles. As you learn your car and get more comfortable, you'll drive faster. Then you can start adding power.

Absolutely! I really want to get out there, like I said even as the car sits right now. I think for my first track day my only mods will be some good brake pads and fluid. As I get the feel of things I'll start the modding and add one upgrade to the equation at a time. The good thing about the turbo setup is I can make as little as 400rwhp and gradually work my up with the power.

My goals are very similar to yours also. I'm not necessarily trying to make it a race car, just want it to be competitive for those days i need it to be and still drive it on the street for normal use.

Just had a few more questions and no reason to start another thread :)

I've been reading up more in this section and I noticed a lot of topic about LS engines having issues with oil starvation. I'm running a stock LS1, should the extra quart of oil do the trick for a track day? I use amsoil 0w30 full synthetic, rx catch can, "new" style pcv hose. Ill probably doing the LS6 pcv conversion and get a FI catch can when I add the turbos, unless my current setup should be ok?

If anyone knows Compsyn over on ls1.com he recommended this oil for what I do with the car, at the time it was just normal driving mostly under 3k rpms with the occasional red line shift when 1/4 drag racing. I might have to use a different oil. Lmk what you guys suggest! Thanks!!!!!

I'm a rookie and never been on road course. Up til now Ive done nothin but drag racing. I'm just glad I didn't dive into a drag racing suspension because I truly want to get to DRIVE the car. I'll still do plenty of drag racing but I don't want the car to be built that way only.

I'm glad you brought up the staggered tire setup. I was planning on doing 275-295 fronts and 315 or larger rears. I never thought of how it'll effect handling. 19"s for show and 18"-17"s for the track sounds really good. Any recommendations for good track wheels and tires? What concerns me is things like alignment and suspension adjustment every time I swap out the wheels. Should I be concerned with that at all? I do like the idea alot though, this way I can run MUCH better tires for the track and keep the street tires for daily driving.

I personally prefer 17's just because the tires are more affordable and provide a greater selection. Street tires would probably be a good place to start. You can listen to the tires in the corners and it gives you a better feel for where the limit is. The louder they scream, the closer you are to losing it. ;) Once you know where the edge is and what the car will do you can upgrade to race rubber and you'll be even faster. Race tires tend to be significantly more expensive, and they'll hide a lot of bad habits that you may not otherwise notice.

If you went with the Kuhmo Ecsta XS you'll have a really grippy "street" tire and would be a great place to start. As far as wheels go, I run 17x11 ZR1 replica's for the track and the factory WS6 wheels for the street. According to the "clerk/service specialist/guy that answers the phone" (read: not mechanic) at the place I get the car aligned, going from the 17x9 and 275/40 to the 17x11 and 315/35 will change the alignment slightly, but since the overall wheel height is the same, it won't matter. How true that is, I'm not entirely sure. To me it doesn't make a lot of sense. I would think that the increased width would make a pretty significant difference. :poke:

I've been reading up more in this section and I noticed a lot of topic about LS engines having issues with oil starvation. I'm running a stock LS1, should the extra


until you install a baffle for the oil pan or a dry sump, 1 extra quart is fine. i did several days with the usual 6qts and nothing ever happened; before getting the baffle installed. mostly depends on the track itself and how its laid out.

that oil is fine. i use german castrol. there are more arguments about brand/type of oil to use then there are anything else. ive done a full year on GC with an oil analysis, and it showed absolutely no wear whatsoever.

I personally prefer 17's just because the tires are more affordable and provide a greater selection. Street tires would probably be a good place to start. You can listen to the tires in the corners and it gives you a better feel for where the limit is. The louder they scream, the closer you are to losing it. ;) Once you know where the edge is and what the car will do you can upgrade to race rubber and you'll be even faster. Race tires tend to be significantly more expensive, and they'll hide a lot of bad habits that you may not otherwise notice.

If you went with the Kuhmo Ecsta XS you'll have a really grippy "street" tire and would be a great place to start. As far as wheels go, I run 17x11 ZR1 replica's for the track and the factory WS6 wheels for the street. According to the "clerk/service specialist/guy that answers the phone" (read: not mechanic) at the place I get the car aligned, going from the 17x9 and 275/40 to the 17x11 and 315/35 will change the alignment slightly, but since the overall wheel height is the same, it won't matter. How true that is, I'm not entirely sure. To me it doesn't make a lot of sense. I would think that the increased width would make a pretty significant difference. :poke:


What about shock adjustment? If the 315's are going to weigh more than the 275's wouldn't the suspension need some adjustment also?

until you install a baffle for the oil pan or a dry sump, 1 extra quart is fine. i did several days with the usual 6qts and nothing ever happened; before getting the baffle installed. mostly depends on the track itself and how its laid out.

that oil is fine. i use german castrol. there are more arguments about brand/type of oil to use then there are anything else. ive done a full year on GC with an oil analysis, and it showed absolutely no wear whatsoever.

I agree, the debate on which oil to use is endless. I'm going to stick with amsoil but just double check if this type that I use is good for the lots of revs and the track :) It probably is fine but I'd just have to flush it a lot sooner.

Is the baffle for the oil pan or dry sump system something I will really need to consider doing in the future? If I start a racing very often?

baffle is for the oil pan, and can be bought from Improved Racing. get the baffle, run 6 quarts, change regularly and use a quality filter and an LS1/6 will last a long time. LS2/3/7's have issues though..

oh, and BTW, ~550 hp in an fbody, is A LOT of power. They didn't design our chassis or suspension like the Corvettes which handle the power a lot better. Granted I have that power NA and you're looking FI which will have a smoother power band, but still, it's a lot of power for our cars.

baffle is for the oil pan, and can be bought from Improved Racing. get the baffle, run 6 quarts, change regularly and use a quality filter and an LS1/6 will last a long time. LS2/3/7's have issues though..

oh, and BTW, ~550 hp in an fbody, is A LOT of power. They didn't design our chassis or suspension like the Corvettes which handle the power a lot better. Granted I have that power NA and you're looking FI which will have a smoother power band, but still, it's a lot of power for our cars.

I've been thinking that if/when the stock motor goes boom, I'll build a LS2 or LS3 block like most builds I see in the FI-section. Guess I should just stick my stock LS1 block to keep it simple.

I've been questioning if my 2 point subframe connectors were enough and I'd love to upgrade to 3 points just for peace of mind even. They are welded on though so, I'm not sure if I can swap them out or if it's worth it at all. Is there anything that could help the chassis handle that power? Good shocks is on the list so far...

What about shock adjustment? If the 315's are going to weigh more than the 275's wouldn't the suspension need some adjustment also?

Are you talking about adjusting the rebound to account for the reduced travel? As long as the spring rates are increased over stock to account for the additional load, the strut travel shouldn't matter with respect to the weight of the wheel. That's been my experience anyway. I could be wrong though, it's happened before. :) As soon as it warms up a bit here I can get the car back together I can let you know.

Or are you talking about the alignment specifically...?

Are you talking about adjusting the rebound to account for the reduced travel? As long as the spring rates are increased over stock to account for the additional load, the strut travel shouldn't matter with respect to the weight of the wheel. That's been my experience anyway. I could be wrong though, it's happened before. :) As soon as it warms up a bit here I can get the car back together I can let you know.

Or are you talking about the alignment specifically...?

No, we're on the same page here :) That's exactly what I'm confused about is adjusting the dampening/rebound of the shocks. I'm pretty sure by now I will be going with koni da and strano springs all around. So, when switching wheels, there shouldn't be any necessary adjustments to the shocks?

No, we're on the same page here :) That's exactly what I'm confused about is adjusting the dampening/rebound of the shocks. I'm pretty sure by now I will be going with koni da and strano springs all around. So, when switching wheels, there shouldn't be any necessary adjustments to the shocks?

Correct. The adjustability of the strut itself, like the Koni single and double adjustable, is really just related to the rigidity of the ride. The car sits on the springs and the strut absorbs the bumps (shock absorber). The single adjustable struts change the compression of the strut and how much energy it takes to force the piston into the strut body. The double adjustable struts allow for adjustment of both compression and rebound. Basically not only can you adjust how much force is required to compress the strut, but you can also adjust how quickly the strut comes back to an extended position.

Changing wheel set ups won't require shock adjustment. However, some people have specific settings that they prefer for AutoX and track events which are substantially different from how they prefer the street ride. If you're alright with a little rougher ride on the street you can leave them alone. That's what I do. Does that make sense?

Correct. The adjustability of the strut itself, like the Koni single and double adjustable, is really just related to the rigidity of the ride. The car sits on the springs and the strut absorbs the bumps (shock absorber). The single adjustable struts change the compression of the strut and how much energy it takes to force the piston into the strut body. The double adjustable struts allow for adjustment of both compression and rebound. Basically not only can you adjust how much force is required to compress the strut, but you can also adjust how quickly the strut comes back to an extended position.

Changing wheel set ups won't require shock adjustment. However, some people have specific settings that they prefer for AutoX and track events which are substantially different from how they prefer the street ride. If you're alright with a little rougher ride on the street you can leave them alone. That's what I do. Does that make sense?

:nod: Absolutely, makes perfect sense and I understand how it works now. I want to have a good ride on the street and then good handling for the track. It should be worth it because most of my driving will be on the street. Then I can stiffen up the shocks for track day to get the most out of the setup. Thanks again for all the help! I wanted to make sure that if I did use different wheels for track and played with the shocks adjustment, will I have to fix the alignment every time?

I've been questioning if my 2 point subframe connectors were enough and I'd love to upgrade to 3 points just for peace of mind even. They are welded on though so, I'm not sure if I can swap them out or if it's worth it at all. Is there anything that could help the chassis handle that power? Good shocks is on the list so far...
Its not so much that the chassis is going to flex, as its the overall design I think he is referring to. The weight distribution, wheelbase, width and overhangs. Then the suspension design being a solid axle car with limited travel, and won't go as low to the ground as a vette will.

No, we're on the same page here :) That's exactly what I'm confused about is adjusting the dampening/rebound of the shocks. I'm pretty sure by now I will be going with koni da and strano springs all around. So, when switching wheels, there shouldn't be any necessary adjustments to the shocks?
Unsprung weight like wheels will be controlled by compression dampening. It will probably have to be trail and error testing for you to see what you like best with the compression adjustments vs the wheels.

Correct. The adjustability of the strut itself, like the Koni single and double adjustable, is really just related to the rigidity of the ride
Only to an extent. The shocks will control how quickly the car reacts, by controlling how quickly the springs compress and decompress. Also on a side note these cars use shocks, not struts.


The car sits on the springs and the strut absorbs the bumps (shock absorber). The single adjustable struts change the compression of the strut and how much energy it takes to force the piston into the strut body. The double adjustable struts allow for adjustment of both compression and rebound. Basically not only can you adjust how much force is required to compress the strut, but you can also adjust how quickly the strut comes back to an extended position.
Single adjustable Konis for our cars adjust rebound only, not compression.

I'm going to stick with amsoil but just double check if this type that I use is good for the lots of revs and the track :) It probably is fine but I'd just have to flush it a lot sooner.

Is the baffle for the oil pan or dry sump system something I will really need to consider doing in the future? If I start a racing very often?

as i said, ive done an analysis on my oil, after a season. there was no wear, and the oil was in like new condition. there is absolutely no need to change oil after every single track day. just like there is no reason to change oil every 3000 miles, regardless of oil type or driving. you can change after every event if you want, but its going to be EXTREMELY expensive if you keep using amsoil. id use regular oil if you want to change every time.

the baffle isnt that expensive, but its not easy to install, as you have to either raise the motor, or drop the front subframe for clearance. if you ever have the motor out for any reason, i wouldnt think twice about doing it. if you plan on pulling it at some time, you can buy it and keep it until you do it. if you start doing regular events, over 5 a year, itd be a good idea to put it in regardless. its something you do once and forget about it.

another part to consider is a new power steering pump. they go very quickly after hard driving, especially if you ever use slicks. get a turn one pump, or send your stock to be rebuilt by PSC. do it now, and you wont have to worry about it later.

Its not so much that the chassis is going to flex, as its the overall design I think he is referring to. The weight distribution, wheelbase, width and overhangs. Then the suspension design being a solid axle car with limited travel, and won't go as low to the ground as a vette will.


Unsprung weight like wheels will be controlled by compression dampening. It will probably have to be trail and error testing for you to see what you like best with the compression adjustments vs the wheels.


Only to an extent. The shocks will control how quickly the car reacts, by controlling how quickly the springs compress and decompress. Also on a side note these cars use shocks, not struts.


Single adjustable Konis for our cars adjust rebound only, not compression.

Everything JD said.

Our cars with a lot of power are just down right nasty. If you keep the 10 bolt in for a while, it won't last long. I'm counting my days and I don't drag race. The car finds every pot hole and uneven surface and the tires spin. When you drive a car like a C6Z or Porsche 997, something that came factory with a lot of power (hell, even the new GT500's), they are smooth, well planted and feel refined. Our cars on the other hand are none of that; but they are fast ;)

can i ask how old you are and how long you've had your car?

Only to an extent. The shocks will control how quickly the car reacts, by controlling how quickly the springs compress and decompress. Also on a side note these cars use shocks, not struts.

I have a really bad habit of using the two terms interchangeably. :p Obviously with a strut providing structural support in addition to absorption, and a shock simply providing absorption. I'll try and refrain from that in the future so as to not perpetuate any potential confusion. :)


Single adjustable Konis for our cars adjust rebound only, not compression.

I stand corrected. :)

as i said, ive done an analysis on my oil, after a season. there was no wear, and the oil was in like new condition. there is absolutely no need to change oil after every single track day. just like there is no reason to change oil every 3000 miles, regardless of oil type or driving. you can change after every event if you want, but its going to be EXTREMELY expensive if you keep using amsoil. id use regular oil if you want to change every time.

the baffle isnt that expensive, but its not easy to install, as you have to either raise the motor, or drop the front subframe for clearance. if you ever have the motor out for any reason, i wouldnt think twice about doing it. if you plan on pulling it at some time, you can buy it and keep it until you do it. if you start doing regular events, over 5 a year, itd be a good idea to put it in regardless. its something you do once and forget about it.

another part to consider is a new power steering pump. they go very quickly after hard driving, especially if you ever use slicks. get a turn one pump, or send your stock to be rebuilt by PSC. do it now, and you wont have to worry about it later.

I didn't mean that I'd be changing the oil after every track day, just that the oils life would be decreased compared to never driving it hard at all. Ill definitely get a UOA after a few thousand miles to get a better idea of how much oil life it has. It looks like I'm gonna have a good chance to install the oil baffle when installing the turbos, then I'll upgrade the piston rod bolts while I'm at it too. Thanks for the heads up on the power steering pump also.

Everything JD said.

Our cars with a lot of power are just down right nasty. If you keep the 10 bolt in for a while, it won't last long. I'm counting my days and I don't drag race. The car finds every pot hole and uneven surface and the tires spin. When you drive a car like a C6Z or Porsche 997, something that came factory with a lot of power (hell, even the new GT500's), they are smooth, well planted and feel refined. Our cars on the other hand are none of that; but they are fast ;)

can i ask how old you are and how long you've had your car?

I'm 24 and I've owned my ws6 for about a year and half.

Honestly, I got bored with the power it makes right now, drag racing it. It looks like road racing will be the real challenge with the same power too. Im very excited :)

The only thing I would like to add here which is in agreement with everybody else is that the 19's would be a mistake for the track. If you really like the 19's then buy them and use them on the street and have set of 17's for track duty.

Thanks again for all the advice everyone!

I need some opinions on the APS twin turbo kit and how having this power adder will behave on the track. I'm not sure what to expect with boost and possibly turbo lag. Is it unpredictable when the boost kicks in?

I'm just trying to be sure that going turbo is what I want instead of going N/A route.

Please, any input on a turbo fbody and the road course is appreciated!

I don't really have any experience, and my observations are limited, but I watched a big turbo Evo on a road course, and in long sweeping corners, I watched him hit boost and have to immediately let off because he was applying too much power for the turn, but as soon as he let off, he was going too slow, so he was on and off the entire turn. That might not be the case with a larger displacement engine + a turbo or two, but that guy wasn't making his way around the track very effectively.

I don't really have any experience, and my observations are limited, but I watched a big turbo Evo on a road course, and in long sweeping corners, I watched him hit boost and have to immediately let off because he was applying too much power for the turn, but as soon as he let off, he was going too slow, so he was on and off the entire turn. That might not be the case with a larger displacement engine + a turbo or two, but that guy wasn't making his way around the track very effectively.

That's exactly what I'm afraid of and trying to get some feedback from anyone who has a turbo ls motor. If I can get around that "on-off" powerband I'll go turbo. I'd prefer that flat torque curve of a NA motor or even a PD blower. For the track I don't want to deal with belt issues so it's either gonna be turbo or NA no question.

This TT kit though, I've looked at a few "stock" dyno graphs and boost comes in pretty quick around 2rpms to full boost at 3rpms. From 3rpms to redline you've got full boost and all the power is there. So maybe it's not laggy at all, just really hope someone can help me out on that.

Another thing to think about - is the additional weight of the twin turbo kit worth the extra powér? Especially when that added weight will be on the front of the car, making the weight distribution even more biased towards the front. Personally, I'd want my car to have as close to a 50/50 weight distribution as possible.

Scrap the turbo idea, more weight over the nose isn't worth anything in my book. A head/cam 450 rwhp f body is Damn fast and a handful on course.

Spend money onsuspension and brakes.

The best possible handling 4th Gen is going to be no better than a properly near stock C4 Corvette and nearly impossible to make better than a properly setup C5Z or C6. If you are looking for the best possible track car to start I'd go with a C5Z Corvette. The money you spend in the F-body just won't make up the difference in chassis and suspension. Personally I like my F-body, but I'm also VERY aware of its limitations now.

Dollar for dollar a vett is out, a nice c5 is lower 20's to high teens in price for a non z06. working on them without a lift is all but impossible.

A f body properly setup and driven will have many a vette driver watching your bumper disappear.