security light on
02-22-2011, 01:10 PM
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security light on Replaced the ignition cylinder and key chip, Two weeks later the key would not disengage from ignition, disabled the park lock cable to remove key from ignition cylinder. Car started for about a week then would not start. Turned key to on position for 10 minutes, which apparently reset the VAT system and car started. Car still starts and security light stays on until problem is fixed from what I have read. Question is what do I need to do to trouble shoot the problem, identify and fix? 
02-22-2011, 01:22 PM
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I'm thinking you'll need to give some information like year of the car so people know if you're talking about Vats 2 or Vats 1.
The key not removing from the lock cylinder seems to be the cause of your new issue with the Security light.. Why did that occur? Sounds like the lock cylinder could be faulty if it wasn't working properly before with the park lock cable. If it's faulty in that respect then it's likely it's also faulty in the VATS feature too. You can check by taking the resistance at the plug under the dash (unplug the vats plug and check the resistance with the key turned to on on the key side ). If it doesn't match what it's supposed to then you know your issue is the key lock cylinder again. Or you could have just bypassed the VATS key lock resistance check to see if that solves the problem (can do that now too, it only costs 1 buck or less and can be made reversible if needed).
As far as tools you need to check things, you need a multimeter that can at least read ohms. You need to know what your system expects the resistance to be. You need to then take the resistance of your key chip directly and then the way i described when being inserted in the lock cylinder. Or just bypass it. If problem persists you could have a faulty VATS module.
Edit: Btw, what made you replace the key lock cylinder _and_ get a new key? Most people would just spend 1 buck and bypass the check for the stupid chip in the key. Rather than all that money on the new cylinder and installation and all that.
The key not removing from the lock cylinder seems to be the cause of your new issue with the Security light.. Why did that occur? Sounds like the lock cylinder could be faulty if it wasn't working properly before with the park lock cable. If it's faulty in that respect then it's likely it's also faulty in the VATS feature too. You can check by taking the resistance at the plug under the dash (unplug the vats plug and check the resistance with the key turned to on on the key side ). If it doesn't match what it's supposed to then you know your issue is the key lock cylinder again. Or you could have just bypassed the VATS key lock resistance check to see if that solves the problem (can do that now too, it only costs 1 buck or less and can be made reversible if needed).
As far as tools you need to check things, you need a multimeter that can at least read ohms. You need to know what your system expects the resistance to be. You need to then take the resistance of your key chip directly and then the way i described when being inserted in the lock cylinder. Or just bypass it. If problem persists you could have a faulty VATS module.
Edit: Btw, what made you replace the key lock cylinder _and_ get a new key? Most people would just spend 1 buck and bypass the check for the stupid chip in the key. Rather than all that money on the new cylinder and installation and all that.
Last edited by safemode; 02-22-2011 at 01:35 PM.
02-22-2011, 09:10 PM
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Security light The cylinder was replaced because it was faulty and the car would not start at all. Therefore a new key chip required as a result of replacing the cylinder. The car is a 2001 LS1 z28 Camaro.
I am wondering if it could be the relay switch is what has gone bad now or the wiring going to the cylinder causing the key initially not to be recognized. I know that it did recognize the key at one point and I am now in bypass mode. If anyone out there has had this problem and can tell me how to bypass the VATs altogether for the time being or if this issue is related to removing the park/lock cable and I should just replace that and or can it be tied in the neutral position which has been suggested to me. Also someone else suggested that the chip in the key may not be seated properly and that could be causing the new issue with the security system. Btw since the park lock cable was disconnected the key now comes out of the ignition.
I am wondering if it could be the relay switch is what has gone bad now or the wiring going to the cylinder causing the key initially not to be recognized. I know that it did recognize the key at one point and I am now in bypass mode. If anyone out there has had this problem and can tell me how to bypass the VATs altogether for the time being or if this issue is related to removing the park/lock cable and I should just replace that and or can it be tied in the neutral position which has been suggested to me. Also someone else suggested that the chip in the key may not be seated properly and that could be causing the new issue with the security system. Btw since the park lock cable was disconnected the key now comes out of the ignition.
